Question about Acer Aspire L100 PC Desktop

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Sudden death acer l100

Monday night I shut down my l100 and tuesday when I whent to srart it up "DEAD". no lights no fan noise nothing! I checked my power cord its fine and also checked power just inside acer it was hot also so I have a good connection? Any Ideas out there?

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  • Anonymous May 05, 2008

    Sudden death indeed - my acer just did the same thing to me. Still searching for a solution, but I'm looking at the m-boards batteries and at the switch on the front. They're the only ideas I have at the moment.

  • pwlyons May 07, 2008

    Similar problem, I almost never shut it down. Had been using it on Saturday 05/03/08, came back into office and unit was powered down. Could not get it to power back up. 1 month out of warranty.

  • goodier May 16, 2008

    Same problem. This happened previously under warranty (eight months old). I sent the computer to Acer and it was returned with a new Main Board. Now, one month out of warranty, it happened again. Acer sent a new power transformer/cord but that was not the problem. They refuse to do anything further. I am trying to get information about obtaining a new Main Board and am awaiting a price and availability to determine if I want to try to do this myself. Acer stated they will make the repairs but will hold $449 on a credit card before starting repairs. It sounds like thirteen months is the crucial timing for breakdowns - get an extended warranty.

  • Ron Warren
    Ron Warren May 25, 2008

    where do i find a replacement system board for acer apire l100

  • jdconnell Jun 07, 2008

    I applied Vista Service Pack 1 this morning and did a warm boot. The system seem to run fine. A storm was coming in so I shut the L100 down and like the others who posted, it will not power up. The external power supply/cord is working but the unit is dead.

  • Anonymous Jun 21, 2008

    I have had the same problems, after 13 months and whilst using the computer it popped and shut down. Will not turn on at all, have taken it to a computer repair shop and they have advised that the power supply has overheated and has blown a couple of components on the motherboard and will cost between £110 and £150 to fix the problem. I think a letter to trading standards is needed because it looks as if a lot of people have the same problem.

  • 3607chapel Jun 27, 2008

    Exactly the same thing happened to me - shut down Tuesday evening for the first time in months - just to give the computer a "break"... Thursday evening - nothing, totally dead. Same answer when I called Acer for help. Essentially = too bad that you are 2 months out of warranty, but just send us $449.00 and we'll check it out for you. Never, ever will my company or I buy anything from Acer again...

  • Pippu Jul 02, 2008

    Wow. Same thing happened to me... I shut down my Acer L100 on Friday night, and it hasn't come on since. It's just dead. Isn't there anything we can do about this? My Acer is less than 12 months old... it's ridiculous!

  • falunfixit Jul 04, 2008

    Had my al100 for 16 months. Started acting up like software lockup for past 6 months. Thought it was a Vista problem till this morning when I started it up it locked up when I tried to restart after forcing a shut down it powers up the fan runs no status lights I hear the hdd wind up. I took out the hdd and put on another pc its fine so looks like mb failure. In hindsight I should have seen it coming. Thought highly of Acer till now. Better do a rethink on my opinion.

  • Anonymous Jul 26, 2008

    Hi EXACTLY the same here. I went to the computer shop and there was an other L100 with the again exectly the same problem. Also absolutly no power. 17 months old now. I didn't find a solution yet...

  • Dave Jenk Jul 31, 2008

    Same problem here. Been to the PC repair shop with mine and been told that at least 2 of the capacitors have blown. Sounds like a common problem to me!

  • not2akamai Aug 04, 2008

    Same deal. 18 months old. My wife shut it down "to save energy" and it won't come back to life. Power supply is good; 20V at the motherboard. No voltage at the start switch. Acer quoted me a flat rate of $449 to fix.

  • Buteo Aug 07, 2008

    EXACLTY the same problem here. Acer charged me for 300 euro with a new motherboard. I didn't pay so far. Some advise?


  • jmoney2 Aug 10, 2008

    L100 was great 'till it won't start. now has very quiet fan noise, no video, and therefore no response. hard drive is fine. should have known not to get something with totally proprietary replacement parts. am sure other acer products are good, but probably not this one.

  • pezanity Aug 15, 2008

    The Acer Aspire L100 is a piece of junk. I had originally purchased the unit to incorporate within my wall unit to handle my multimedia needs geared towards music. I have returned the unit 4 times in the last 18 months due to motherboard failure problems. The motherboard, thermal fans and hard drive have been replaced 3 times.The unit died again August 14th 2008 and will not power on. Acer states that since it is now 6 motnhs our of warranty that they will only fix the problem if I pay. I have since filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau of Texas where Acer America is located about this defective model.

  • irgle Aug 19, 2008

    Shut down one night - next morning nothing! I am in the UK and Acer want to charge £53.13 just to ship and look at it (with no undertaking what it will cost to fix!) - mine is 17 months old!

  • prostar5 Aug 30, 2008

    Does not power up. External power supply fine. Suggested reset power button protocol failed. Called tech support, since 17mo old, out of warranty repair requires $449 up front. Second option is replace the suspected motherboard and do an exchange at Notebook Solutions for $165- 211 depending on which one. Third option is salvage anything usable and move on which might be the best.

  • Anonymous Sep 20, 2008

    I have the exact same problems , just ove a year old and strated to freeze one day. The wouldn,t power up, local tech solved problem for a while with large fan blowing over it with case top off.Extreme heat coming form hardrive ,Now totally dead Usual acer comment from company.Cost a fortune to fix so bought another computer.
    DO NOT BUY THIS HEAP OF JUNK
    Going to purchase new motherboard from other sources and try to salvage it to get infor back


  • Anonymous Sep 23, 2008

    I purchased the L100 with the refund from my gateway that was defective from the start (long story). The HD had to be replaced less than a year after purchase. Then 1 year & 2 days after that, total comp failure. I have an extended warranty, but here I am, 3 months after I reported the problem,10 calls to tech support, not fixed yet. Acer doesn't seem to have a new motherboard for it. Was told yesterday it won't be cost effective to fix it, and I will likely get a refund. My last "refund" was tigerdirect credit. Not sure I want to buy from them again after 2 nightmare comps! Any advice for the next comp I buy?

  • hipbone43 Sep 26, 2008

    I have the same exact problem. One day, I tried to turn on the computer and nothing. The light on the AC/DC adapter is off, when I unplug from computer and from wall and plug back in to the wall, the light comes on. As soon as I plug into the computer, the AC/DC light goes off and nothing comes on for the computer. Tried a universal AC/DC adapter, the light flickers, sounds like a short on the MB to me. All V meters are good for both AC/DC adapters, must be internal. Purchased May 2007, now useless 16 months later.

  • Ray0104 Oct 05, 2008

    ThanksMy L100 juat doeant boot now 18 months old over heats , I press the on button the central LED flashes and then thats it, Amazon are selling for £275 is it worth a repair? can I just pull out the hard drive and recover the data onto a new pc?



    A repair would be preferable

  • seanmichael6 Nov 04, 2008

    Surprise surprise i have a sililar problem! machine won't boot when power switch pressed. hard disk light flickers once, and fan comes on but won't boot. Quite happy to take & eject CD's but thats it. tried to unplug & leave & try again, still the same.

  • Hermelindo Dec 02, 2008

    I had exactly the same problem I send to analisys they told me the motherboard went dead because (probably) of overheating and to change to motherboard is actually more expensive than a new unit. 


    To anybody have a defective unit to sell the (working) motherboard? 

  • Anonymous Dec 18, 2008

    deosnt power up

  • seanmichael6 Jan 08, 2009

    Nick Sharp you are a god, but i've tried replacing the capacitor @ PEC19 on my Acer L100 with no luck.

    Can you give further spec on the capacitor? I couldn't find a 6.3 volt one but been told the higher voltage one i've installed would do.

    Also you say this had "obviously" failed. You talking about capacitor plague?? If so, none of mine seem to show failure at the vents or any leakage of the capacitor gel.

    Would appreciate any further help as still live in hope of being able to breath life into my machine.

    PS have contacted Acer atthough unit out of warranty who didn't want to know unless i paid for them to inspect it first. Also tried to go back to the supermarket website that i puchased it from to see if i had any recourse, They also didn't want to know unless i first paid for a full technical report showing exact cause of failure! - Thanks Acer!

  • johnhk Jan 19, 2009

    Similiar! Push the Start Button, no power, no LED, and computer stays cold. Is it the power supply, maybe? How do I get to the power supply, as this does not have a typical desktop footprint?

    John Knobloch


  • carlosandjoy Jan 23, 2009

    Same problem. Shut it off last night and nothing this morning. is 17 months old. Not a total loss, the fan and dvd still works.

  • pightle Feb 04, 2009

    Steve...fed up with Acer!
    Oh Dear, I have now had the same problem on 3 client pc'c AND my daughters!...wll try the Capacitor fix and report back....Acer are no help atall, even though 1 of these pc's has been back twice (under the warranty period) for the same fault! they couldn't care less.....and these machines are still for sale in PCWorld!

  • Phil K Feb 11, 2009

    Same problem on L100's. Called Acer, for out of warranty repair they wanted $300.

  • angelladixon Feb 12, 2009

    Wow. There should be a way for everyone to get a refund for this piece of junk. I have an Acer laptop that works pretty well. This desktop version was bought for my children and we have had nothing but problems with it since we bought it and now it will not come on at all.

  • DOUGVIANE Feb 24, 2009

    MY ACER L100 ALL OF A SUDDEN JUST SHUT DOWN. THE POWER UNIT WAS OKAY. SUSPECT IT IS THE MOTHERBOARD TOO, FROM OVERHEATING . I HAD THIS UNIT FOR MY SON & IT'S ALWAYS BEEN IN THE VERTICAL POSITION BUT DOORS WEREN'T OPENED AS THERE WERE NO INSTRUCTIONS ABOUT IT. MY MACHINE IS ALSO OUT OF WARRANTY SO I'LL TRY TO POKE AROUND AND LOOK FOR THE OVERHEATED CAPACITORS.

  • MartinKW Mar 02, 2009

    My wife has the L100 and I have the L3600. Last week her L100 froze as it had done a few times recently. When she plugged the power back in all we got was a strange buzzing.



    I did an internet search and found this page. I phoned a friend, and described the problem and the solution (new capacitors) as related on this page and he said he'd had a similar problem with a Dell recently.



    This weekend, he arrived with his soldering iron and three new capacitors to replace the dead capacitors as described in the solution below. The three were all bulged on the motherboard. He found it difficult to solder and had to use a high temp setting on his soldering iron, but in the end he got them swapped out. So far, after 36hrs of continuous running, it is still working. Hopefully this has cured the problem.



    Looking at the internals the door probably doesn't have much affect as the only openings I can see internally behind the mesh are actually always open to the air flow even if the door is closed - the door doesn't appear to block any internal apertures although I suspect it would help not to have the door acting as an insulating layer of trapped air. There was a fair amount of dust in the side screen (or top if standing vertically) and on the fan (all blown off now), and the location of the single cooling fan is close to the main side screen so there is insufficient air flow being drawn over the rest of the unit, plus with the h/d and DVD unit in there, there's little chance of a decent air flow without adding some additional air flow. However, given the better quality capacitors now fitted let's hope there won't be a repeat.



    Also, anyone know why the L100 fails to come out of "sleep" mode? All I get on the L100 is a fine line of colour at the top of the screen, and I have to reboot the unit.

  • BasKrie Apr 02, 2009

    Hi,

    I'm facing the same problem with the acer aspire L100.
    I am trying to desolder the caps, but the solder won't even melt a little.

    Could someone tell me wat kind of soldering iron you use?

  • p1nmg May 04, 2009

    My friend's L100 was also dead after about 2 year's operating. Replaced the 3 capacitors as suggested in this thread. All sorted - many thanks.

  • Mumm-ra May 05, 2009

    The same capacitor has blown on my motherboard. Tried 4 different soldering irons - the last a new 50W job - but still can't melt the solder. What temperature/wattage have other people managed with? Any suggestions as to how to go forward?

  • kerrylerry May 17, 2009

    24 months old one day it works then no light, no power nothing. if i unplug the power cord and re-plug there is a slight fan noise the blue light flickers then everything stops and back to nothing again. haven't got a clue about fixing it so not sure whether to save for a new desktop or to take this one into a PC shop??? any ideas? If this many people are having issues so soon and acer not interested we should contact watchdog as surely this is a design fault!!!!!!!!

  • Anonymous May 17, 2009

    hey



    i have the same problem to



    the cpu fan give no power and the harddisk to

    ik read this forum and i must change the caps for a new one

    but how can i remove them

    i use a soldeer bout 30 watt but the tint doesn`t smelt

  • Anonymous May 21, 2009

    My problem is similar, it flashes a blue light, the fan cuts on, the cd/ dvd drive works but nothing displays on the monitor and there is no longer a blue light

  • NewbieBoy Nov 07, 2009

    somebody can help me. | have same same problem with acer l100 and i do not undersrand english very well. is there someone who can make a video or pic. crownbar86 will be the best.
    thank you for you help.
    waiting for answers.
    Newbie


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Ive had the same problem died on me and wont switch on but I found itas a different capacitor on the board same value as the one mentioned I replaced the 1st one and stikk didnt work so replaced the 2nd & 3rd cap as they looked swollen and it worked, I couldnt find a 6.3 1000uf so I used 63v 1000uf slightly larger but fitted ok,
I dont know if it was the 2nd or 3rd cap that was faulty as I replaced both at the same time.
See the image attache and you can see where they are located also you can see they are swollen
Oh forgot to mention make sure you use high temp caps to replace them ie 105csudden death acer l100 - fdc3128.jpg

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • ing_lama
    ing_lama Aug 23, 2012

    Great solution. I replaced the first and second capacitor only. Couldn't find them in the local market so i grabbed them from an old motherboard. Thanks for the solution!!!

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Hello

Hey I have some suggestions....I have this same kind of computer which is what I am using to write this post.

This kind is the same Acer L100 and I have had it for 17 months and I have never had a problem with it.

I found out the a way to reduce heat problems. It is simply based on the design of the machine and it actually works.

First and foremost this Acer in particular has 2 in built fans on the back.

I found out (using a smoke experiment) that in order to reduce heat build up you have to operate the unit in the vertical position....upright position.

This means you have to use the "stand" which comes with the computer.

I found out that the computer is able to circulate air better if in the standing position. There is a reason...the computer is designed to work this way.

Also ***Very Very important***** you must ensure that the little hatch---or door which covers the front USB and card reader panel must be open at all times.

I found out (and it is the reason Acer perforated or placed a mesh) in this area (front usb panel) is also to help the computer suck in air using its fans.

The computer draws in cold air through the top mesh and the front panel and cools the memory module and the CPU at the same time covering these two critical heat areas in a 3 dimension wind tunnel which then exists the computer as a hot stream of constant air behind the fans which blows outwards.

Covering any of these 2 areas is not only dangerous but will slowly begin a process of component damamge due to heat build up.

I think Acer thought that customers would use the front USB modules when using the computer so assumed that the hatch on the front which covers this panel would always be open but I think that was poor judgement on Acer's behalf.

Acer's ignorance to clearly explain this design feature was a big faliure on their part as well.


This cooling system not only cools the CPU and the memory module but also when the hot air leaves the machine the computer lower section stays cool.

These areas...the top mesh and the one on the front are the main air intake areas of the computer. If you operate the computer in the horizontal mode with the top air intake to the side...the computer will get hot very fast.

If you operate it while in the standing position with the front panel hatch closed....you are covering 1/2 of the computer air intake system and the machine will over heat gradually...and in the long run affect capacitors and other heat sensitive components on the main board.

The smoke experiment I used showed that when the fans are running....the computer pulls or sucks a lot of air through the front panel and the top mesh.

Dust collects on these areas as well and also on the fans and this is a good example of how air flows through this specific computer.

I usually clean the system every two weeks, using compressed air and ensure the fins of the heat sink the mesh on the front panel and the top of the computer are as free of dust as they can be.

While I must confess that I have no idea what Acer was thinking while confining high power and high heat components in a small space, I must say Acer was not clear enough on the operating conditions of this specific model of their computer.

You can only operate this computer in the standing position, with the panel door/hatch on the front part of the computer open at all times.

Room temeprature is also a big issue. Because of the design of this computer, cooler room temperatures are ideal to keep this system in working order.

Sometime back before I had AC, I bought a small external fan and ran it on low and placed the fan directly in front of the computer and there was a big change even in computer speed, stability and response.

Here are the signs of a computer heating up..regardless of make:

1) Computer fans swirling hard and become louder and louder even with few or no programs running

2) Response time decreases and the system will freeze with some programs freezing up...eg windows which will not close or a mouse pointer not moving even when you move the mouse

3) Screen freeze which is not a good sign...it depicts possibility of an instant failure or component damage which is slolwy going on.

4) Unexpected shut downs are a sign that the optimal temperature for normal operation has been surpassed and sometimes the computer will shut down to prevent loss of data or continued damage to components

A computer which shuts down and does not restart is a clear indication that damage has already occured.

My computer has a Foxxconn motherboard and Foxxconn is relaible as well as stable so the main problem here is heat build up but the design of the computer does show that the best way to operate this computer is in the upright postion, clear of any barriers and good air circulation from all sides.

Hope this helps

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

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Supplied 6 of these to a client, so far 3 are dead, 1 repaired in warranty, the other 2 are month out of warranty and Acer will not do anything about it.

I have poked about and notice when you apply power the Piezo clicks and the LAN LED flashes once then nothing.

The PSU is definately not the problem as i have tested the machine on a psu from a working device and the psu from the dead devices on the working machines and all are fine.

Will poke about on the mobo to see if i can identify any faulty capacitors as see if i can repair myself, I shall let you know if I have any success.

Regards

Nick Sharp

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

  • Nick Sharp Aug 21, 2008

    As promised earlier, I have poked around on the mother board and identified a 1000uF 6.3V electrolytic capacitor which had obviously failed.



    I have just replaced this cap on a pair of fly leads so its easy to replace in future and can report the machine is now running ok on the bench.



    The cap which failed on my board was PEC19 top left of the large passive chipset heatsink.



    Would be interested if any one else has success with reviving their boxes with the same fix.



    Regards



    Nick Sharp

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I have an Acer L100 and have sorted the problem completely.
Please be aware that there is ONE fan and it sucks air INTO the computer which then exits through the grilles.
However I have used a number of fixes and have spent more than the machine cost! I can't be sure which are the best ones. In order of effectiveness by my reckoning though are:-
1) In the BIOS turn off the Fan Control.( In System Health) Noisy but immediately solves the overheating problem. Fan now runs at 7200 rpm instead of 2800 rpm.Cost £0
2) Changed AMD X2 3800 65W ( 2.0GHz) Processor for a 5050e 45W ( 2.6GHz). Cost £55 ( modern equivalents are XII 240e etc)
3) Cut/drill a couple of small holes in the front left grille in front of the hard drive so air can exit. Cost £0
4) Switch the hard drive for a 2.5" SATA unit. Cost approx £30.

5) As the machine was now running almost at room temperature, I swopped the fan for a slower unit that ran at 5000 rpm and made less noise. Speed fan is actually trying to slow the fan down but can't as it is a 3 wire fan, not the original 4 wire.

All these changes combined have given me a machine where only 2 of the 7 or so temperatures on Speedfan are normal, the rest are cooler than normal.

I hope this helps .

Posted on Dec 03, 2009

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To all of those out there with an Acer Aspire L100 SFF that has decided it will no longer boot -
Symptoms: fans spin up, DVD spins up, possibly HD spinning up - no power, HD or network lights on front panel.
Previous Fixes: Changing out 3 capacitors on the mainboard, re-seating memory and processor.
I tried all three of the fixes above and still no joy. I discovered to my surprise that this PC, due to it's heat "issues", had developed a malfunction similar to the XBOX 360 and Ibook G3...it's video chip had developed some connection issues with the mainboard. Due to the heat, the BGA solder connections under the chip has either flexed and become disconnected or corroded with the same result;
Try this: Remove the DVD/HD "sled" - Using 3 fingers, put pressure (not enough to break the mainboard, but a fair amount) on the heatsink for the video chipset. While doing this, press the power button. If it powers up, this is your problem. You might have to try a couple of times with varying amounts of pressure on the heatsink.
Tools: Needle nose pliers,philips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, new heatsink compound (I suggest AS5), a heat gun
The fix: Firstly, the mainboard must be removed from the case, and the heatsink removed from the video chipset. To remove the push-pins, use a pair of needlenose pliers from the back of the mainboard to squeeze the expanders to release the pins. If yours is like mine, after removing the heatsink, you will find that the thermal compound has hardened and is no longer effective...have some AS5 handy. Second, place the mainboard on a flat work surface. Make sure memory, cables and mini-pci wireless card have been removed. Starting about 4 inches above the video chip, put your heat gun on low setting and ove a period of about a minute, move slowly down until you are about an inch above the video chip (this is to heat it slowly and not cause damage) hold there for 30 seconds - you should notice the solder on all the connections around the chip change sheen from dull to shiny - over about 30 seconds to a minute, slowly lift the heat gun away - letting the heat dissipate slowly. Turn the heat gun off and let the board cool for 10-15 minutes. Third, put a thin layer of AS5 on the video chip core and reapply the heatsink, being careful not to chip the core. then proceed to reassemble the machine.
I did this repair myself 2 days ago...still working great!

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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I had the same issue on my l100 which had been working well for 2 years until one day not starting up, which I have fixed by replacing the capacitor

The problem capacitor was no 1. in the photo above, you should be able to tell which capacitor has failed by look at the top, good capictors will be flat, the failed ones will have a slight bulge outward.

I removed the motherboard entirely from the case to remove the solder from the underside, but this may not be necessary as I actually broke off the body of the capacitor from the pins, and soldered the new capacitor to the old pins which worked well, so it might be easier to try to do this before taking the motherboard out.

Capactors have a polarity so you must make sure the -ve pin on the new capacitor (which should have a band next to it) goes to the righthand pin on the photo above.

The parts from Maplin are DT69A, however this was out of stock so I used a much larger capacitor DT71M, which just fits on its side covered in insulation tape to stop it shorting out components on the motherboard.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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I have a solution for L100 heat problem. My idling temps before fix 55 to 65 cel. After fix 33 to 35 cel. If anyone is interested I will post step by step fix.

Posted on Sep 26, 2008

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Same symptoms/problem here....

I followed the procedure described by crownbar86 and it really worked!
Now my Acer L100 boots up from the first time when hit the power button.
It looks difficult when you read it but disassembling the L100 it is in fact very easy to do....a few screws and done.
The heat gun i used was a very big one from Bosh, normally to strip paint with it. It had a scale from 0 to 15....i put it on setting 7 and did the heating, moving the heat gun up an down, for about 2 minutes with a distance of one inch from the motherboard.

I also didn't use the AS5 as recommended but used some other heatsink compount that i found in the nearest electronic shop.

I suggests everybody to do the same if you want to "blow" new life into your Acer Aspire L100 again.

Succes!

Here is the description of Crownbar86 again:

To all of those out there with an Acer Aspire L100 SFF that has decided it will no longer boot -
Symptoms: fans spin up, DVD spins up, possibly HD spinning up - no power, HD or network lights on front panel.
Previous Fixes: Changing out 3 capacitors on the mainboard, re-seating memory and processor.
I tried all three of the fixes above and still no joy. I discovered to my surprise that this PC, due to it's heat "issues", had developed a malfunction similar to the XBOX 360 and Ibook G3...it's video chip had developed some connection issues with the mainboard. Due to the heat, the BGA solder connections under the chip has either flexed and become disconnected or corroded with the same result;
Try this: Remove the DVD/HD "sled" - Using 3 fingers, put pressure (not enough to break the mainboard, but a fair amount) on the heatsink for the video chipset. While doing this, press the power button. If it powers up, this is your problem. You might have to try a couple of times with varying amounts of pressure on the heatsink.
Tools: Needle nose pliers,philips screwdriver, small flat blade screwdriver, new heatsink compound (I suggest AS5), a heat gun
The fix: Firstly, the mainboard must be removed from the case, and the heatsink removed from the video chipset. To remove the push-pins, use a pair of needlenose pliers from the back of the mainboard to squeeze the expanders to release the pins. If yours is like mine, after removing the heatsink, you will find that the thermal compound has hardened and is no longer effective...have some AS5 handy. Second, place the mainboard on a flat work surface. Make sure memory, cables and mini-pci wireless card have been removed. Starting about 4 inches above the video chip, put your heat gun on low setting and ove a period of about a minute, move slowly down until you are about an inch above the video chip (this is to heat it slowly and not cause damage) hold there for 30 seconds - you should notice the solder on all the connections around the chip change sheen from dull to shiny - over about 30 seconds to a minute, slowly lift the heat gun away - letting the heat dissipate slowly. Turn the heat gun off and let the board cool for 10-15 minutes. Third, put a thin layer of AS5 on the video chip core and reapply the heatsink, being careful not to chip the core. then proceed to reassemble the machine.
I did this repair myself 2 days ago...still working great!

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Further to my previous solutions of Fan, disc drive and CPU, I decided to go back to the old fan which was quieter than the new fan. The old fan ran at 2700 RPM while the new one ran at 5100 RPM.
The machine was tested playing back some home videos and reached 51C according to Speedfan.
As I used to do aeromodelling, I decided to stremaline the airflow and cut off the grill that covers the fan with a pair of wire cutters.( the metal is fairly soft). As the CPU does not overheat but the system does, I plugged the fan into the SYS FAN socket instead of the CPU FAN socket.
The fan now runs at around 2770 RPM, a tiny increase so probably not worth doing. However the temperature playing the same movies has dropped down to 47C and the machine is as silent as before.
A 5 minute mod well worth doing.

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

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Replaced the 3 above described capacitors = works like a champ! Except I used 1500u 6.3v out of an old motherboard I had laying around.

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

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Had the same issue. When powered on, it shut off within 30secs of the boot. Replaced caps 2 and 3 and now back in business.

Posted on Dec 27, 2009

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Exactly the same problem and solution as #8. I had no blue led. And a little pizzo squeal when I plugged in the PSU. This computer had been on constantly for months as it is low power and useful for torrenting with.

Anway changed the three caps as mentioned which were as described dome shaped (convex) on the top and now TOK. Also easier to solder onto broken cap legs than remove from the PCB as my antiquated solder ****** would not pull the solder out from these mothers.

Re-applied heat transfer paste on the CPU and overall the PC is actually quieter. Put 1000uF/16v and not 6.3v (Acer please listen) caps in now for headroom.

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

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To Nick Sharp - How did you know which cap was the bad one that needed replacing? Ken

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

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I too am having the same problem with a client's machine. I have spent hours on it so far (non-recoverable time!). I've narrowed it down to 2 capacitors being blown on the motherboard - adjacent to the passive heat sink. Hardly worth fixing as I'm sure the heat is the source of the problem.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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Go back to stock pc parts.  get rid of proprietary motherboard and salvage what you can from this pitiful acer model.

Posted on Aug 25, 2008

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Thanks to you guys I was pretty sure that replacing the PEC19 capacitor would solve my problem. I'm not into electronics very much but noticed that the PEC19 capacitor wasn't o.k. Replaced the capacitor and the L100 is running again. \o/

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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I have 2 of these L1000 Acers and when my one in the basement started always shutting down for some reason I thought that it was a power thing. This went on of a week then one day it wouldnt even come on at all. So a friend said that it was def. a power supply thing. So first I tried was taking the unit to where my other one was and using its power supply (just the plug etc) and it came on. So I thought that it was just the plug. Then I brought the unit and it's power plug (etc) the store to get a new plug etc. and thought that I would try the plug unit again and it came on. So I got it home plugged it into my power bar and it worked fine. I installed XP on it and updated the drivers and everything was fine, it wasn't shutting down at all. (I found out that it was a virus that keep shutting it down) anyways then again no power a week later and so I unplugged the plug from the power bar and unplugged the back of the unit. Got up the next morning and poof it was working and I haven't had a problem in 3 months. I always have all of my computers on all the time, at least just the units so maybe the plug was just getting to hot.
But that's my story.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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The Problem is that people are treating this computer as a desktop, it isn't. it is more like a modified laptop. look inside. the memory, wireless card and mottherboard are all from a laptop. The only thing not from a laptop is the hard drive, a huge, honking, tower size, 3.5 inch full of heat absorbing metal. to help cut back on the heat buildup replace that with a smaller laptop size sata drive. do this using adapter rails and it can be even larger. This is what acer should have done in the first place.

Posted on Sep 08, 2011

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well fixed a guys unit today no caps blowen what so ever took it apart..........scrathed me head a little, then blow tourched the graphics chip without heatsink like 3, 4, in iches away up and down moshine up,down,up,down with flame very low
on torch used this because had no heat gun....
....................WORKS!!!!!!!!! this very minute 12:08am just fixed it

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

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Might be your token ring router check that

Posted on May 01, 2008

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