This happened once before (when under warranty), where a build up of lint caused the thermal overload switch to trip. They came out and reset it. It has now happened again (not under warranty) and I'm competent enough to do it myself (if I know where to look). I have taken the top off and the front display panel, but don't see where the switch is on the unit. Where is the reset for the thermal overload switch?
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Re: LG DLE7177 - Doesn't heat
For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair
Flip the circuit breaker off
and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A
common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that
the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor.
The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out,
then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
Use your ohm meter to test
the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the
heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the
neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the
centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit
for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must
be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.
It looks like the root cause of the thermal fuse blowing is
an improper vent. The idea with a dryer vent is to have as little back pressure
as possible. Back pressure retards the flow of moist air out of the dryer and
also collects lint in the dryer and vent system creating a fire hazard.
Whenever either the thermal fuse or the thermostat is
found to be bad, both parts should be replaced at the same time, or else the
same issue recurs. The number one thing you should do to make your dryer safer
to operate and dry clothes more efficiently is to follow the do’s and don’ts in
this chart. In addition
to the basic do’s and don’ts above, you shall obey these dryer vent length
criteria. It is recommended to use either rigid aluminum or steel duct or
spiral-wound aluminum flex hose–NOT the white vinyl hose.
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Re: LG DLE7177 - Doesn't heat
IF THE FUSE IS BLOWN OR THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIP, THE DRYER MIGHT TUMBLE BUT NOT HEAT. CHECK YOUR HOME'S OR LAUNDRY ROOM'S FUSE BOX/CURCUIT BREAKER BOX AND REPLACE THE FUSE OR RESET THE CURCUIT BREAKER.
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The thermal overload sensor got tripped. Usually by a small lint fire inside the heater unit. not uncommon to have this happen without your knowledge and without causing a major fire. cheap fix to do yourself but you have to take the a lot of the dryer apart to get to it. Been there done that.
this sure has all the suspicions that it's the thermal safety switch , (1) it worked on last load
(2) nothing happens when start is pushed
( 3) tub light works ok
both gas and electric models have one , and they both do go bad , the switch is mounted usually at top of air outlet tunnel on back of dryer , some do have reset buttons , but rarely do they trip for false reasons , something musta happened to cause a high heat build up in dryer ,Lint build-up is most common reason I can think of
you have a bad motor,most likely you don't clean out the dryer,this is the number 1 killer of dryers.the vent line,the duct that the lint filter slides into and the cabinet where the motor is needs to be cleaned out if it's gas once a year,electric once every two years.all a dryer does is move air,when lint starts to build up the dryer starts to run hotter then normal from the lint build up and the dryer can't move the air as easy as when everything is cleaned out and then parts start to brake like the thermal fuse will pop from running to hot or the motor starts to over heat like yours and shuts down.when the motor gets hot the oil that's inside it leaks out,you'll see it stuck to the side wall and on the rear end of the drum with lint stuck to it.there's an overload in the motor that pops when the motor gets hot and after a while when it cools down the overload resets,that's why you can start it again after a while so basicly you have to replace the motor and clean out the dryer,if the vent line is a long run,remove it from the back of the dryer and with a leaf blower blow it out,you'll see all kinds of stuff blow out through the outside duct and clean out the duct that the lint filter goes into and the cabinet where the motor is or replace the dryer.
Thanks for using FixYa. No Heat issue in dryer is usually caused due to three things mainly: Thermal Fuse, Wiring Harness and/or Heating Element. Start with checking the Thermal Fuse which ismounted inside the back cover panel to the exhaust duct and is mounted in white plastic housing. If thats fine then the Heating Element should be checked. Please do revert for further assistance.
the coments above are typical but not for this brand of dryer. I am not a Service technician but Very Handy. You can access the service summary (or Diagnostic Mode) by:
1)Turn on power to unit
2)Press & hold down the Auto Dry button, while you momentarily press the Power button.
3)Press the Auto Dry UP button 3 times to read the "Last Fault Option". Different combinations of LEDs has a specific value(refer to the WIRING DIAGRAM located under the control panel)
***The entire dryer can be disassembled with only 6 Philips head screws. In my situation, I had the same issue listed above (No Heat). Start by making sure your ductwork exhaust has no blockage or kinks. Take a Shopvac and vacume every bit of lint up inside and out of the Dryer.
Turns out that my problem was nothing but a Manual Reset button located by the Heater Coil Box (Located lower front and right)
***This is an overload arrestor that tripped due to a build up of Lint!
The button clicks when it has been reset, then it works fine. Once again, make sure your Dryer is spotless before you close it up, (unless this is a part of your routine maintenance, haha).
First off, unless you are using the manual dry (timed dry) option, the times listed are strickly an estimate. At the begining of a cycle, the dryer has no idea how big a load you have, how wet it is, and how good your vent is. In your situation, I would clean off the two silver colored moisture sensor bars, located just inside the drum, by the right side of the lint filter area. They are curved, about 5 inches long, and about an inch apart. If you use fabric softener sheets, they can aquire a waxy build up, which inhibits them from detecting that the clothes are still too wet.
It sounds like to me that the timer may be bad. Does your breaker trip when this happens? If it does, then it is probably not the timer. The motor turning the drum might be going bad. It could be building up resistance then cutting it off on overload(current). Try to bypass the thermal overload switch which is located under the top. This may very well be your problem. Let me know how this does.
the internal thermal overload is tripping out. check your motor bearings for no lubrication. there might be a build-up of lint inside the end bells of the motor that contribute to the overloading condition