Question about EliteGroup EZ-BUDDIE (ezbuddiep4) Barebone

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POWER CABLE WERE CAN I GET PARTS POWER LEAD 4 PIN

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Do you need adapter for the ez buddy?

pls send me a email:oltu@telfort.nl

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

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Like This One?

Delta AC Adapter (Model:ADP-150BB)

Google the p/n maybe you can find it elsewhere

Posted on May 01, 2008

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Computer shuts off after 2 mins when case side panel is on


Might be faulty PSU power supply unit
it sounds like a loose connection of some type check the power button connections make sure the soldered wire connections are good and dust free

check cmos battery seating some motherboards cmos batteries are soldered in

it could be a loose or faulty power or data lead check these from motherboard to hard drive also make sure the CPU cental processing unit has a secure dust free seating an has thermal paste

it does sound odd
hope this helps

Jul 04, 2012 | Barebone Systems

1 Answer

Start problem


All I see for the heading, romakavati, is - Fujitsu Barebone Systems.

Do I assume we are talking about a barebone Desktop Computer?

If so;

1) The plastic front of the desktop computer is the Front Panel.

The area of contact pins on the motherboard, that the wires from the Front panel go to, is the Front Panel header.

Do you have the wires from the Power On switch, connected CORRECTLY, to the Front Panel header?

(The Power On switch is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly. It is a style of ATX power on switch.

This is one example,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html )

2) Your motherboard may require a 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Example of cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

This is power for the Processor.

If your motherboard does require it, do you have it plugged in?

3) Do you know if the Power Supply is good?

Even if it is a new one, and came with the barebones computer you bought, it doesn't mean it is a good one.

May be a bad one, and doesn't even turn on.
May be a bad one, and one of the three main voltage power rails, is no good.

[ There are three main voltage power rails, in the Switched-Mode Power Supply, installed for your Fujitsu desktop computer.

A) The 3.3 Volt power rail

B) The 5 Volt power rail

C) The 12 Volt power rail

All are DC Voltage.

{In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC. Just a fact you may be interested in ]

First see if the Power Supply will turn on. This is done with a jumper wire, on the Soft Power On wire, in the ATX main power cable's connector.

Your ATX main power cable may be a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable,

A) 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

B) 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

With both power cables you will see there is a Green wire.
This is the Soft Power On wire.
Abbreviated as PS_ON.

A jumper wire is used to briefly connect the Green wire, to ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

DO NOT cut the wires, or poke a hole in their insulation.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip.
The paper clip is straightened out _________________
,then bent into a U-shaped.

The middle of the U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape. This area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

U-shaped jumper wire turned upside down, you have two 'legs'.
The legs go down into the socket holes, of the ATX main power cable's connector.

Let's look at the example for the 24-pin ATX main power cable, again,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The 24-pin ATX main power cable needs to be plugged in, as shown in the photo to the far right.

Computer power supply is plugged into power.

One leg of the paper clip jumper wire, is inserted down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the Green wire.

Goes down in the socket hole, slides past the insulation of the Green wire, and touches the metal terminal at the end of that wire.

The leg of the paper clip jumper wire, MUST go down in the socket hole far enough, to TOUCH that metal terminal end.

[ Metal terminal is a type of female Molex terminal. Tube shaped, and goes over a contact pin in the motherboard connector,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US ]

The other leg of the U-shaped paper clip jumper wire, goes down into
ANY socket hole, that has a Black wire in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

The contact made is no more than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

IF, the Power Supply comes on, you either have a bad Power On switch, or it is Not connected correctly, in the Front Panel header on the motherboard.

IF, the Power Supply does Not come on, you have a bad Power Supply.
Plain, and simple.

IF, due to lack of a more detailed statement from you, that your problem is the Power Supply DOES come on, but Windows does not load;

A) You know the Window operating system is NOT on a new harddrive, right?
You have to install Windows on it.

B) Installing a harddrive with Windows already on it.

You know that when Windows is installed on a computer, (To the harddrive, actually), it assigns hash values to certain major components, right?

Certain major hardware components such as;
1) Processor
2) Motherboard chipset
3) BIOS program, and version.
4) Harddrive
5) Graphics chipset

Change any two, or more of these components, and Windows will want to be activated again. (Not registered,... Activated)

This is because Windows will 'think', you are taking it off of the harddrive it is on, and trying to install it on another harddrive, or computer.

Microsoft User's License states; "One GENUINE copy of Windows per
ONE computer"

[ Microsoft makes one Master disk. From it all GENUINE copies are made, and sold to the consumer ]

However, the Windows activation screen does NOT always come up.

Ready for your questions, and additional information you did not post.
Post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

May 20, 2012 | Fujitsu Barebone Systems

1 Answer

I have a brand new sh55j2 motherboard/case installed with i5-650, 4gb team elite ddr3 1333 memory (from approved list) the system will not come up with video to configure bios settings. known good monitor...


Hi there,


1. Remove unnecessary cables like sata power and sata cable while troubleshooting your computer. our goal is to boot with display replug the cables later. check Atx 4 pin if plugged properly.

2. Clear CMOS button or short jumper 2-3.

3. Remove CMOS battery wait 5-10 seconds press the power button, before you put it back.

4. Put only one memory instead of two try different dims until you have display, change memory if it failed to come up. remove power cord when plugging the memory.

5. Still no display, test your Team Elite Ram to another machine or bring your system unit to your seller test everything.

6. Is your Team DDR3-1333 ELITE TED34096M1333C9 model because Team has many variants and the 4GB Shuttle have mentioned is that one.


Hopefully this information helps.


Thanj you for using FIxYa.

Aug 26, 2011 | Shuttle (SH55J2) Barebone

1 Answer

Looking for power adapter


hard to find.
but u can use 12v DC supplier with that connector line from the dead PSU.

it is a 4-pin connector, but only 2 wires ( positive & negative ) in the line cable.

Oct 28, 2009 | EliteGroup EZ-BUDDIE (ezbuddiep4) Barebone

1 Answer

No boot up.


Power supply is easier to troubleshoot my local pc shop has used ones for $5 or if you have one laying around make sure you have one with the proper mobo connector 24pin will sometimes fit 20 pin as long as there are no transistors to close to plug just turn pc off unplug all drives and mobo plug in good supply and turn on if it works thats the problem if not probably mobo

Apr 10, 2009 | Shuttle SK43G (tsk43g) Barebone

1 Answer

Psu


200 watt max. 19v DC power brick with a 4 pin plug, with two positive and two ground pins. The PSU is unique to the E-bot. I have not been able to find an exact match anywhere. Foxconn no longer sells the PSUs and will not help with tech support in any way. The PSU was originally produced by Fortron Source Power (FSP). When mine went bad, I had to buy a similar looking unit (but with only a 150 watt max rating), then I had to rewire the output cord, because the 4 pin plug had the positives and negatives switched around.

If you need a new power brick for the Ebot, I seriously hope you have the old original unit still. If you do, you can then simply buy any 19V laptop power brick that has acceptable power output (at least 120 watt) and then replace the power output cord with the original one from the Ebot's power supply (some soldering required). It's really the only way to replace the unit.

Jun 23, 2008 | Foxconn eBOT Barebone

2 Answers

Canon Pixma ip1500 - Orange Flashing light


may be "waste pad full" error
try:
4 step to Reset waste ink tank counter CANON PIXMA iP 1500
STEP 1:- Disconnect printer from AC power
STEP 2:- Press and HOLD the POWER button, and connect printer to AC power
STEP 3:- release the the POWER button
STEP 4:- Press the POWER button again

Feb 05, 2008 | Barebone Systems

1 Answer

Powering up issue


Only guess I have is unplug the 4 pin connector from the MB if you used it, I had that problem with an Abit nf7-s, no joy until I found out the extra 4 from a 24 pin is NOT what hooks to the 12V boost connector on the MB when you only have a 20 pin main hook-up.
Sorry if this doesn't help.

Dec 19, 2007 | Diablotek CX0656A Barebone

1 Answer

Loss of power to onboard USB and PS2 ports


Hi, I checked a known good spare motherboard with a VOM (continuity tester): pin 4 of the KB PS2 port, pin 1 of the rear USB, pin 1 & 2 of the front panel USB onboard connector, pin 3 of the infrared, pin 4 of the speaker connector, pins 4, 6,21 & 22 of the ATX 24-pin Power Connector are all interconnected (+5VDC). If that is an indication of the general +5 supply layout, you can probably hard wire a new +5 supply line to where the +5 is gone from where it is still available. Of course without a schematic, I might be off. Determining the actual component position of the surface mounted fuse (or fusible link) might not be that easy since manufacturer do not publish such information loosely. A shotgun approach (test all) would be time consuming but of course challenging. Your best bet would probably be as mentioned earlier, hardwire and install in series with the new +5 line a low amp (500ma or lower) smfuse. This article describes the power requirement of USB ports > http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml. Hope this be of some help to you. Pls post again how things turn up. Good luck and kind regards.

Aug 18, 2007 | MSI MBOX PM8M2-V (MBOXPM8M2V) Barebone

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