There is a metal strip inside the tape transport compartment that connects the main body to that chamber - it has broken - snapped due to stress of opening and closing compartment. The camera has now stopped working - except to charge a battery - but it won't turn on. Does anyone know how much this costs to replace?
Re: There is a metal strip inside the tape transport...
Without knowing what kind the tape is, it is impossible to get answer for your question. Let's be specific on the kind of tape, wwhere the metal is, etc.
My camera is a Sony DCR-PC100 that uses mini dv tapes. The connector that snapped in the tape compartment is, I believe, the DATA CABLE that connects the body of the camera to the cassette door, and when it broke it severed the connection to the control buttons of the camera. Every time the cassette door opens, the cable flexes, became brittle, and finally just snapped in half. I love this camera and would like to know what kind of money is involved in getting the cable replaced- is there an alternative to going through Sony. I can buy another one on eBay but since Sony began making these in 2004 (and no longer make or support them), I have to assume a replacement camera is headed towards the same problem as mine (brittle data cable). Thank you.My camera is a Sony DCR-PC100 that uses mini dv tapes. The connector that snapped in the tape compartment is, I believe, the DATA CABLE that connects the body of the camera to the cassette door, and when it broke it severed the connection to the control buttons of the camera.
Every time the cassette door opens, the cable flexes, became brittle, and finally just snapped in half.
I love this camera and would like to know what kind of money is involved in getting the cable replaced- is there an alternative to going through Sony. I can buy another one on eBay but since Sony began making these in 2004 (and no longer make or support them), I have to assume a replacement camera is headed towards the same problem as mine (brittle data cable).
Thank you.
...and when the data cable broke, the connection to the camera's controls was severed......and when the data cable broke, the connection to the camera's controls was severed...
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Check for a draft connecting main body to freezer body, theory is air compression transfer from main compartment to the (smaller) freezer compartment. also a quick fix would be to add more magnet strip or bare the metal that makes contact to the magnet strip that seals the door, if its a latch, Inspect the surface area that locks the latch to mount. Draft checking is achieved by blowing a fan into the smaller compartment, vice versa and having strands of string hanging around in the opposite compartment, if the string nudge indicates an air passage point. Also, check the level of the fridge, if the fridge is uneven (assuming the front is tilted downward) the momentum of the door closing will push the fridge backwards and whip it forward effectively opening the freezer door.
1) Start with removing ALL power to the laptop. Remove the AC adapter (Charger) and Battery.
2) Observe Anti-Static Precautions. Your body carries Static electricity. Static will fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components inside a computer.
With a desktop computer you merely touch the metal frame of the open computer case. (Computer unplugged from power, if you leave in the middle of working on the computer, be SURE to touch the metal frame upon your return, BEFORE touching the computer again)
With a laptop no such luck. Everything metal in the laptop is non-magnetic, therefore non-ferrous. The best advice is to wear an ESD wrist strap, (About $5 bucks), and connect it's alligator clip to a good ground source.
Next best is to at least touch a metal doorknob before working on the laptop, or touch a large metal object sitting on the table. (Or workbench) (Metal object such as large serving plate, or metal knickknack, perhaps)
Granted we are discussing replacing a laptop LCD screen, but play it safe, observe Anti-Static Precautions.
3) You need, A) A small, and medium Philips screwdriver. (No.1 and No.2) B) A pair of needlenose pliers would be handy. C) Strip of wide tape, or a multi-compartment container.
The strip of tape, or the multi-compartment container, is for the various screws you will remove. Some look VERY close to each other, but are NOT. Do Not mix them up!
(Put a screw in the wrong hole, and the screw could seize halfway in. No putting it all the way in, or getting it back out without Severe damage. At the very least you'll strip the threads off of the screw, or the threads in the hole)
A clean egg container can be substituted for the multi-compartment container. Label each egg holder for the area the screw/s come out of.
Or; Tape wrapped into a loop, one side stuck to a piece of cardboard, label the cardboard next to the area on the tape where the screw will be.
This video is show you the removal steps. It is for a Sony Vaio VGN FZ180E, but you'll find the LCD screen removal is similar.
To replace the glass in the front of your phone, the steps to take are listed as follows;
After removing your back cover and battery,
remove the screws you see.
With the four screws removed you can now remove the battery compartment,
With the battery slot removed you have
access to one of the ribbons which
connects the screen to the main body of the phone. Unclip this (it fits
like a plug and socket).
You'll now have the phone in two parts,
Now remove the two screws at the
bottom of the main display. You can then remove the display part which
covers the LCD. This is held on by clips. You need to run your
fingernail along the edge of the housing to release these. This will
release the display up to the point where you see two metal parts (left
and right of the Motorola text). The top part of the display is held on
with double sided tape. To remove the display requires some force to
unstick the tape but be careful not to bend this part back and snap it.
Just try to ease it open and it will eventually unstic,
Take a look at the battery compartment under the panel (left looking up). I had a similar problem and had just fixed it. Hopefully you can get the same results.
If the strip of metal with the spring is corroded, take the batteries out, and carefully remove the metal strip. I used metal duct tape and wrapped the piece of metal with the tape. Carefully put a slight bend in the middle of the strip and reinsert the strip. If the batteries do not connect up, bend the piece a bit more or add more of the metal duct tape. After doing this, the panel came back to life. If this is not your problem, then my apologies. If it is, then good luck.
From your description, it sounds like the tape transport mechanism has become mis-timed. (i.e. gears inside may have stripped or jumped a tooth) Proper positioning in camcorders is critical. Certain things have to happen just at certain intervals or the corder will jam and/or misfeed. There could be dirt or sand in the mechanism--especially if you've been to the beach recently or been in blowing sand. Using some canned air, try to clean the sides of the tape compartment(thats where the gears and levers move/slide) This might dislodge dirt particles. DON'T FORCE THE TAPE TRANSPORT AT ALL!!! I can't stress this enough. Any bending or stripping of gears means the unit will have to be sent in for repair. Make sure your battery is properly charged--a weak one will cause sluggish operation(including the symptom you're having) Try another tape cartridge known to have worked fine--I have a Sony cam and sometimes it's finicky about tapes! Inspect the tape compartment to see if anything has caught the mechanism or impeded its movement.---Hope I helped!---Rick
I've just done my cd 330 using belts obtained from http://www.TurntableNeedles.com as they have an online database of suitable belts for many different machines and post internationally.
I did not find it easy to dismantle / reassemble the cd 330. Take bottom off - 5 long and 1 short screws on base + 2 screws on back. Unsolder bottom wire. Take top off - 2 long metal pillars and one deeply recessed metal screw through pcb. I did not unsolder the speaker although this might have made things easier. Take front off - all control knobs and 4 screws revealed by taking top/bottom panels off. Take tape transport off - 4 screws vaguely in the corners of the transport sub-chassis. I unscrewed one of the flywheel bearings in order to allow me to thread in the main drive belt.
Go search for this ebay item
350138808473 and purchase the flash assembly for the m407. Other options is to search broken m305, m307, or m407 cameras (the components are interchangeable) that have working flashes. The batteries I suggest purchasing new rechargeables batteries and try a fresh charged pack. It may not be a bad idea to also purchase a AA battery recharger. You will need precision screw-driver set and electrical tape.
There are six screws on the outside of the case. Remove the six screws and gently pry the case open and remove the camera from the case. I found that placing my thumbs around the Tripod stand and opening as if it were a **** works.
The next step is to remove the LCD and the button board. What holds them in place are two small screws next to the bottom of the LCD. Remove the screws and small aluminum frame around the LCD. Using a small flat-head precision screw driver, gently pry the LCD loose from the base that is soldered to camera main circuit board. The LCD should be hanging by the ribbon cable. Using the precision screw driver, gently loosen the prongs that hold the LCD in place. After the LCD has been remove, remove the button board, which should be loose (it snaps into the main circuit board and it is taped to the flash assembly. Try to have as much of the tape on the button board after removal. You can use packaging tape to replace the tape.
WARNING: The flash assembly contains a 330 V capacitor. The flash assembly is covered with black electrical tape to prevent accidental contact to any expose metal. Contacting the metal will give you a good size shock.
The next step is to loosen the flash assembly from the camera. In the back of the camera, underneath the LCD and button board, there are three black screws that holds the battery chamber in place. Remove these screws, but the chamber is also screwed the flash assembly. Turn the camera around. You will see that there are three items attached to wires that you will have to either pry or snap off. The first is the switch by the battery door. The next is the speaker that is snapped into the assembly. The last is a disk that is sticked to the batter chamber (via an adhesive) Gently pry each of these loose (using a small flat-head precision screw-driver) and leave each component hanging from the wires.
There are two screws that attach the battery chamber to the flash assembly. You will need to look for theses screws underneath the black tape. The first one is easy because it the edge of the assembly. The second one is located in the middle of assembly and you will have to lift the tape to expose the screw. There is a third screw that holds the small valance of the flash bulb. This can stay on. Once the screws have been removed, the battery chamber should dangle out. (PS. This exposes the SD card slot if you need to straighten out bent copper prongs that prevents your card from being read.)
The assembly is plugged in to the main circuit board. This is located behind the capacitor (which looks like a battery.) Special care is require to wiggle or pry the open the plug to avoid damaging the plug from the flash assembly or from the main circuit board. I usually sit the camera on the table and stick the precision screw-driver in that area behind the capacitor and carefully pull the screw driver up. Once the flash assembly is loose, it should plob over to the overside, being held together by a copper foil that has been soldered to both the flash assembly and main circuit board. Try to leave as much of the copper foil behind with main circuit board as you tear the foil to fully remove the flash assembly.
Plug the good flash assembly into the slot on the main circuit board. Tuck the copper foil back underneath the tape. Screw the battery chamber back into place. Tuck back the battery door switch, speaker and disk back into proper location. Replace any black tape with electrical tape. Assemble the button board and LCD back into the main circuit board. Screw back in the alumnimum frame. Put the main camera inside the back half of the camera plastic case. Put the battery door in place (this may fallen off when removing the case. Snap in the front case and screw the case shut. Test the camera for functionality.
OK, since I'm an engineer I couldnt resist the temptation to open up the beast for more than 5 minutes so I opened it up to see what's inside (I can't recommend this due to the small screws any tiny delicate connectors inside). Along the way I discovered and fixed the problem.
As is typical for broken appliances usually the primary method for succesful repair is: open, vacuum clean, close. And otherwise see what happens along the way.
What I found in my case is very simple: when I close the battery compartment latch you are supposed to hear two sort of "clicking" sounds. The first one is a obvious one which happens when the plastic of the lid snaps into the plastic latches on the camera body, it is a clearly audible plastic-on-plastic like clicking sound. The second clicking sound, which was the missing link to make my camera work, is a higher pitched, lower volume, metal spring like snapping sound. I don't know where that latch occurs but it only happens when I push the plastic lid all the way in even after it seems it is already fully secure. Without that second metal-like click my camera won't power on. I can reproduce the problem by closing the battery lid but not to the point of the second "click".
So my simple solution is, push or jam your battery lid all the way in until you hear the metal-spring like clicking sound. Worked for me, hopefully works for you too.
FirewallAvat: Your problem is likely because your battery is dead and the adapter isn't charging it. This may be due to broken connections in the cable from the adapter. Flexing often causes the wire inside to break near the plug. Generic replacement adapters are available, or the wire can be cut back a bit and a suitable replacement soldered on. The cause might also be broken solder connections on the main board at the power jack, This is common from stress due to the power plug flexing. It is usually possible to open the computer and resolder these connections, although sometimes there's too much damage from arcing before the connection fails entirely.
DocBrown: Does the power LED on your computer come on when you connect the adapter? If not, try the adapter in another outlet anyway. Sometimes one outlet in a strip can go bad. Check the output of the adapter with a voltmeter. If it's bad, replace it or try repairing it as noted above. If the adapter is good but the light isn't on, you might have the bad power jack as well.
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