Question about Washing Machines

2 Answers

WESTINGHOUSE TOP LOADER WASHER

I just replace the center rubber seal , and carefully install all connectors and hoses back , plug it in for a test to check for leaks , it fills up to desired level BUT doesnt want to start , I hear like a hum coming from the motor and a strange smell , I recheck all connections , plug it back , NOW it wont do nothing , not even fill the tub with water , so theres 2 things to check a fuse ? and why motor wont start , It was fine before. please help AJ

Posted by on

2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Genius:

    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Master
  • 1,028 Answers

Be sure motor turns freely also ckd wires to motor if motor should overheat safety in motor opens and water won't run in

Posted on May 01, 2008

CALL A TRAINED SERVICE PERSON

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Washer is leaking from under machine checked all hoses and drain connections and there were no leaks in them.


Is this a FRONT LOADER? Or, a TOP LOADER?

The following link explains how to access and inspect the interior of a FRONT LOADER and what common sources of leaks to look for:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader

The most common source of front loader leaks comes from the door bellow (gray rubber seal). A routine inspection around the perimeter of the door for rips or tears will tell if the bellow needs replaced. If the bellow requires replacement, the following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


If this is a TOP LOADER, the following link explains how to access and inspect the interior for common sources of leaks:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576648-washer_leak__top_loader

The most common source of leaking on a TOP LOADER is the drain pump. These pumps are not serviceable and if found to be leaking, need to be replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3794382-replacing_water_pump_whirlpool_top


Whatever style washer you have, make sure you read through the links provided and follow the steps on how to properly access your washer interior so you can get an accurate view. Make sure you check all tub seals, dispenser hoses and drain hoses as well.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased from any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

If you have questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 08, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Need instructions to replace door latch-kenmore elite top loader


1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkkrqtwwwgtsgwdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krqsddwkbxktttdstrw/1/1303472/5961857/image48287img-or.jpg

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Oct 08, 2009 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Stackable Neptune Front Loader Washer Leak.


check that the door seals correctly on the rubber boot, check the boot for holes or rips, check the drain hose, tub to pump hose and pump.

Jul 08, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Roper washing machine the drum is loose and makes lots of noise


remove the drum unit and check out as follows: Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 
Bearing and Seal notes: 
 
Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
 
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves.
3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!

May 07, 2009 | Roper Washing Machines

1 Answer

Drum does not rotate once machine turned on


remove and check the drum gasket: Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 
Bearing and Seal notes: 
 
Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
 
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves.
3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!

May 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Having trouble dismantling the motor / gearbox from the tub base of a 7244E washing machine, to replace the drive coupling. I have the 3 mounting screws out but can't withdraw the motor/gearbox assembly...


Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 

May 07, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

WASHTUB PROBLEM


Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 

May 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Change is moving around under the tub how do I get it out


1. Bring Band-Aids, Frigidaire seems to leave many sharp edges!! Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 

Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
 
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves.
3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!

May 06, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

#285352 Trust Plug (Input Shaft) Seal R&R


Rear Tub Bearing Replacement



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven’t done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o’clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o’clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o’clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaking taps


Check first if leaking from hoses or under the machine.
Undo your taps, check that the hoses rubber seals haven't worn out. Replace rubber seals, most hardware plumbing sections have them. Also if the actual tap is leaking at the wall, you will have to change the tappets. You will need to close your main water at the timer, then undo the actual knobs, depending on the tap. Once opened take out tappets and replace with copper ones rather than plastic. Then put all back together and switch water on and check if leaking. In case it is the washing machine, try to replace hose or the connector on the back of machine. Make sure also all rubber seals are replaced with new ones. If under machine you will need a plumber. See how you go!

Aug 02, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

86 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...