Question about Car Audio & Video
I think the originals may have been IR21844S. I've been using the IRS21844S and they have worked well.
The un-connected pads lift relatively easily on these boards. If you want to avoid lifting those pads and you have a soldering iron with a temperature control, use ChipQuik solder alloy to remove the ICs. Set the iron to ~450F as a starting point. Increase the temperature slightly if necessary.
If the amp has vertically mounted outputs, be careful when you reinstall them. The holes typically have a fair amount of slack. If the transistor isn't positioned correctly when it's soldered in, it will be too far from the sink and will not be able to mate (thermally) to the sink (the clamps aren't strong enough. If they are too close to the sink, they will rip the insulators when you slide the board back into the sink.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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