- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.
What you have is either a bad heater or heater bi-metal thermostat most likely. I say that since the ice box is working correctly until that frost builds up. Have you checked them. Your heater should test good for continuity(not open or bad) but the bi-metal is a different story. It is open at 50 degrees f and it only closes or carrys voltage when it is sitting in a freezer at 25f. What it does is allow power to the heater when the timer or automatic control calls for defrost. The defrost cycle is around 20 to 40 minutes and power is constantly being sent to that heater the whole time. When it gets warm enough for frost to melt 50F then that bi-metal opens up and kills the power to that heater. If that heater was to stay on it would not be purty. For the rest of the defrost cycle the coils simply rest and drip.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Hi, You have a self defrosting problem.
Remove the rear inside freezer panel and check continuity on the defrost element and bi-metal switch.The bi-metal has to be tested cold. If there is continuity on both parts, you will need to change the defrost timer.
The most common part that goes bad is the element. I hope this helps you. Please leet me know if I can assist you further.
is the fan running in the freezer, if not find out why, is there frost on the back panel if so you have a defrosting issue bad heater bad bi-metal or bad defrost timer let me know if you need any mor help
ON ALMOST ALL REFRIGERATORS, THE FRESH FOOD SECTION GETS ITS COOLING FROM THE FREEZER BY AIR CIRCULATION. IF THE AIR ISN'T CIRCULATING, FINDING THE CAUSE WILL REMEDY THE PROBLEM. THE MOST FREQUENT FAILURE IS THE DEFROST CYCLE AND IS EASILY DIAGNOSED BY LOOKING IN THE FREEZER SECTION. IF FROST IS PRESENT ON THE BACK WALL, (OR FLOOR OF OLD MAGIC CHEF TOP MOUNT), THEN A DEFROST FAILURE HAS OCCURED. THERE ARE THREE COMPONENTS IN THE DEFROST CIRCUIT. THE CONTROL, THE HEATER, AND THE BI-METAL. FIND THE DEFROST CONTROL AND SET TO DEFROST. IF THE HEATER COMES ON, THE CONTROL IS BAD. IF THE HEATER DOES NOT COME ON, EITHER THE HEATER OR THE BI-METAL IS BAD.
TO FIND THE BI-METAL, FOLLOW ONE SIDE OF THE HEATER WIRE FROM THE HEATER TO A SMALL ROUND DISC WITH TWO WIRES COMING OUT OF IT. THAT IS THE BI-METAL.DETERMINE WHICH IS BAD WITH VOLTAGE OR RESISTANCE MEASUREMENTS.
you have either a Defrost heater / a defrost timer/ or a defrost bi-metal that is bad. if you post your model # i can look it up and show you how to set it into defrost to see if the heaters are ok
Since you replaced the timer already that leaves two things you need to check set it into defrost if you know how and remove the panel in the back wall of the freezer you should see the heater(s) are on if not check pwr 120vac at the heaters if 0 volts the bi-metal is bad