Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It has a defrost problem. Most likely cause would be the defrost thermostat which clips onto the evaporator behind the back panel in the freezer. Next most common would be the defrost timer. Third would be the defrost heater. Let me know if you want to try to test these parts. If so I will need the entire model # from the sticker in the fridge or on older models on a plate at the bottom front below the door.
Posted on Oct 10, 2007
SOURCE: freezer no frost
This is probably due to the failure of defrost timer or the heating coil..Try this
1)The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
2)If this doesnt work then Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
Your defrost system must be on the blink. The defrost system is used to keep slabs of ice from forming and disrupting flow of air to that fresh food compartment. In the old days grandma would just unplug the unit every 2 weeks and place a chair in front of the the ice box, holding the door open for an afternoon to kill the frost buildup. Then came the modern frost free icebox. Every 8 hours the timer would kill the compressor and kick in a heater to melt that old frost. A bi-metal thermostat was installed in line with the heater to shut it down at 50 degreesF, then the ice box would just keep quite and set a spell (21 mins) then like magic the ice box would roar back to life, get cold, and chill out. That is until you opened the ice box door and violated grannys 3 second rule and caused the compressor to come roaring on and scare the cat half to death. Nowadays instead of timers(we don't need no stinking $2 timers) we built in computer boards with fancy sensors to monitor capacitance changes in the evaporator coils and issue orders from main computer board to defrost board to commence defrost cycle all the time monitoring for any changes in our daily habits, taking in consideration of how many times we peek into the ice box and look at grandmas strawberry shortcake. Keeping up with each and every ice cube we consume and checking the temperature and quality of our water and ice in the door. OH my! So what could go wrong? Well barring hurricanes, tornatoes, thunderstorms, earthquakes, and other natural disasters, all ice boxs still need a heater and a thermostat. I would start there. Of course if you had have specified a particular model number and brand so that a date age and a few components could have been looked at then I could have posibly given a more specific answer.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
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