Compressor starts immediately after breaker is turned on regardless of temperature setting. Turn thermostat down and fan comes on and cools until satisfied and shuts off, but compressor continues to run and will stop after approximately 4-5 mintes and start again for approximately 5 minutes and start again without fan. Thermostat seems to control fan, but compressor will run regardless except, if fan is off compressor may be shutting off for high head pressure?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Multiple problems. Eliminate thermostat first. Remove face from wall and turn on breaker. If fan still runs you have a bad board or bad relay. If fan outside is running compressor should be too. These operate on same contactor. Verify you are getting 24 volts to coil side of contactor. If odf stops working and contactor remains pulled in you have a bad motor. If odf motor stops working the compressor will shut off due to overheating.
If your central air conditioner doesn't go on automatically:
1) Be sure the thermostat is set to “cool” and that the set temperature is well below the ambient temperature.
2) A central air conditioner should be on a dedicated 240-volt circuit; check the main electrical panel and any secondary circuit panels for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. If you find the problem there, reset the breaker or replace the fuse.
3) Make sure the furnace power switch is turned on and that the outdoor condenser's power switch, which is mounted on the outdoor unit, hasn't been shut off. Also, be sure the 240-volt disconnect next to the compressor, which is in a metal box, usually mounted on the house wall, hasn't been shut off.
4) Turn off the power to the air conditioner and check the thermostat.
5) Remove the thermostat's cover and unscrew the wire from the Y terminal.
6) Turn the power back on.
7) Holding the wire by its insulation ONLY, touch the bare end to the R terminal and hold it there for about two minutes. If the compressor kicks on, the thermostat is faulty; replace it or call an air-conditioning technician. If the compressor doesn't go on when you hold the two wires together, turn the power back off and call a technician.
The best guess is that you have a bad thermostat. When the compressor shuts off it has to stay off for a long enough period of time for the low pressure high pressure to equalize. If it turns the compressor off and back on immediately it can't start against the heavy load created by these unequal pressures. If it will start every time after sitting for 10 minutes the thermostat is making it short cycle.
A thermostat is only a switch, nothing more. It's job is to cut on and off the cooling/heating equipment based on a preset temperature setting. It sends 24-28 volts to a contactor or relay which does the actual closing (turn on) or opening (turn off) the power to the compressor or furnace, and that's all it does. There could be a problem with the other parts of the system. When the space temperature exceeds the preset temperature the thermostat should provide 24-28 volts to the compressor contactor, to start the compressor. The "Auto-on" switch on the thermostat controls the fan only. If there isn't 24-28 volts from the thermostat to the coil of the contactor, the compressor will not operate,
The reason the lights are not flickering and breaker not tripping when 6 pin harness disconnected that goes to roof unit is because the compressor and fan are disconnected, which would be the major draw that causes it. There is a few ways you can narrow down the cause, or defective relay, but my guess is if it's causing lights to flicker and breaker to trip, it's on the compressor circuit. The fan coming on and off unless capacitor faulty wouldn't draw it down that much, and obviously capacitor is good otherwise it wouldn't operate good when turned on normally. I'd start by inspecting wires to and from thermostat for possible rubbing or touching against one another at a bare spot perhaps. Can't rule out 100% that thermostat isn't defective as well. When thermostat set to cooler temperature, and on, does it turn off and on in normal cycles, to maintain temperature?
Take the external cover off the unit, check for oil leaks. If yoy have any it is a fair bet that you have lost the gas from the system and maybe damaged the compressor. Also with a multi-meter check whether power is getting to the compressor. Just a note, one of the oldest traps in the book is to forget to turn the thermostat down to its lowest setting before any testing. You may find that the darn thing has come to set point temperature and the thermostat is doing its job and has turned the machine off. Also I am not all that familiar with van Ac units but if it was a domestic or commercial machine there would be a delay timer between the thermostat and the compressor. Check the capacitors.with a capacitance meter. A crook capacitor will stop the compressor every time.
Sounds like the contactor is stuck in the outside unit. Turn off the breaker or safety switch, remove the cover, and tap on the body of the contactor with a hammer handle or similar tool. If a click is heard you may have dislodged it and it may work for either a short time or indefinitely. (yeah ,I know that's kinda vague) Test it. If that doesn't clear it up, disconnect the thermostat wires just to make sure and re-test. If the compressor starts without the thermostat connected, you will need to replace the contactor. If you feel real handy, you could perhaps remove the cover, seperate the contacts with a screwdriver, dress the contacts with an emery board until smooth and shiny, and try again.