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Motorcaravan fridge auto-igniter continues to flash even when fridge has lit but the gas flame ,visible through small glass in the inside rear of the fridge remains constant.Usually a do-it-myselfer i am wondering if the thermo-couple is on it's way out or is not fully in the flame,or maybe the jet is partially blocked and giving a weak flame. The fridge is working OK.From initial switch-on the igniter sparks rapidly (as normal) and the gas lights, and after a couple of seconds the thermo-couple kicks in....but then the igniter continues to spark in spasms..a couple of flashes every three or four seconds.We thought the wind outside was catching the fridge through the air vent in some way but this is not the case. Iain g4wrk@talktalk.net

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Yes the problem has been solved by cleaning jet and repositioning thermo-couple so that it is well into the flame.It would therefore appear that the combination of a partially blocked gas jet and a badly aligned thermo-couple triggered the auto-igniter .
Thanks for your interest,.......I am afraid that at my age now help has to come free of charge.A new auto-igniter would have been £69 and a thermo-couple £35.A new jet was a reasonable £6...........

Regards Iain edwards g4wrk@talktalk.net

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

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My Dometic 2852 will not cool in gas mode. The igniter continues to click despite a small blue flame in the burner. I have take the gas valve out and cleaned it and removed the orifice and cleaned it


If the igniter continues to click, that means that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter. You need to clean the igniter tip to make sure that there is not a build up of soot or corrosion. The tip of the igniter should be approximately 1/8" from the flame tube. The only way to determine "sufficient" gas flow would be to perform a manometer test to ensure that you have 10" - 14" water column. I would start with cleaning and adjusting the igniter so that it will not continue to try to ignite. If that does not stop the igniter from striking then you will need to replace the igniter. If it continues after you install a new igniter then you are more than likely experiencing board failure.

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Why won't my gas grill stay lit?


Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system.

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The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
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CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

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1 Answer

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A noisy inducer probably is headed for replacement.

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The thermocouple could be defective even though it seems to open the gas valve when it should.

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Bought a chescold finch 3 way fridge but no instructions - help


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2 Answers

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384e312.jpg

Now if it won't stay lit. It is something wrong with either your flame or your thermocouple. First try just blowing out the the flu right where the flame comes out blow compressed air in so if there is dirt or cobweb in there it comes out the back side. If that doesn't help disconnect your thermocouple and wipe the end and then connect it back up and tighten it. If it still wont stay lit still replace the thermocouple.

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