I read your recomendations to other users, thus openned the back pannel of the freezer and defrosted the tons of frost that was on all the elements. I have now switched it back on.
1. Where is the defrost switch on this model? I have an ice maker
2. How long after I switched it on will I know if it is defrosting alright or not = how long does it take for the problem to manifest itself?
3. What is the best way to test the swithch?
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Re: Defrost problem on GE TFX22ZR
It will take 60 hours, if you never open the doors. Best way for you to check is get a digital thermometer with a high and low memory and stick it in the very back of the freezer compartment, up against the back wall towards the bottom. When it reads your freezer temp. say between 0 - 10 degree, reset it and leave it go for a couple days. When you see the high memory show 40 - 50 degrees, it defrosted. If the hi memory doesn't go above, say 15 or so, It didn't defrost. Thats the easiest way without having a test board to hook up. defrost cycle is programmed based on number of door openings and average temp, so on so forth. But a maximum of 60 hours. If it goes about three days and doesn't defrost then you still have a problem, and it could take about a week before your fridge temp rises again and start the cycle of not cooling all over again.
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The Ice Maker and the Freezer/Fridge part of the unit work separate, that's why you get the ice made but the freezer can't keep it frozen.
Most likely the condenser, located in the back of the freezer is all frozen and covered with ice pluggin up the air ducts to the fridge, preventing it from cooling.
One quick solution will be unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it’s own or remove the freezer's back panel and using a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice, this will take about 20 to 30 min..
There are various reasons this type of problem:
The temp. controls are not set properly. Set controls according to manufacturer recomendation.
The small fan in the freezer is not working,
The defros timer is not working or,
The defrost heater coil is busted.
Once the ice is melted, plug unit back in and check for unit reactions. You should be able to hear the freezer fan working. Also, you'll hear about 4 to 6 times a day the defrost heater melting the ice in the back of the freezer, if NOT, check heater coil for continuity.
it is not defrosting . coil is icing over it will slowly get warmer in fridge then freezer. will be defrost timer needs replacing or defrost element. also listen if fan motor is running when door closed.
If your model number is the Profile/Artica PSS26 model the most likely reason for this is a burned out defrost heater. Look into back of the freezer and tell me if a layer of frost is building up on the rear wall of the freezer compartment. If yes then unplug and remove the rear panel in the back of the freezer to expose the evaporator coil. If frosted over then you need to defrost with a hair dryer or leave a bucket of hot water in the freezer compartment until the ice melts away. Sometimes the defrost drain is frozen over and then the beginning of the frost becomes heavy quickly and temperatures begin to increase in both sides of your side by side. Lately I seem to be here and ge no response from anyone. I want you to a the least let me know if you need my help to resolve this. Sometimes the main control board causes this but not as likely as the defrost thermostat and defrost heater. Sea Breeze
Sounds like a defrost problem. Look inside the freezer. Look and see if the back wall, behind the food is has ice or frost on it. If so you most likely have a defrost problem. With these models it is most likely bad defrost heaters. You can take the inside pannel out of the freezer, use a hair dryer and defrost (DO NOT USE SHARP OBJECT TO BREAK ICE) Put pannel back in and it will operate normaly for about 3 or 4 days. Until you can get the part or get it fixed. This way you will not loose you food.
this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.
you need to take freezer evaperator cover off , then turn it to defrost and test the supply voltage across the defrost element. if no volts then test the round disk looking thing with 2 wirers comming out of it . with the supply power removed from the power point, the coil frozen up , disconnect these wirers and use a continuity checker such as a multy meter on diode check or buzzer mode, you should have a closed circuit through the defrost termination thermostat (round disk with 2 wirers) , it is in series with the defrost element thus cutting the power to the element if the coil temp gets too high and terminates the element , the timer will time out after it's time duration is reached. A good way to test the motor in the timer is to put a texta mark on the dial of the timer and check it in 1/2 hr, to see if it has moved.AFTER YOU HAVE PUT THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS BACK AFTER TESTING THE TERMINATIN THERMOSTAT AND MADE IT SAFE, YOU WOULD PLUG IT BACK IN.
The defrost timer needs to be connected to power of the fridge to opperate.
****. let me know your progress pls.
Sounds like a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary ..defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.
To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.
The defrost systems is:
THERMOSTAT-DEFROST ( in the GE refrigerator the heater anf the thermostat are sold together)
Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor. then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
bad defrost timer
bad defrost heater (in freezer)
bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above