Frigidare gallery front loader modle #417.39012890
My right front shock broke causing the belt to wear through the outer casing to the stainless steel tub. There are rust stains on the outer casing in the rear. Also the rear berring is gone. is this worthtrying to repair?
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Yes, you should. The Frigidaire Gallery is a wonderful unit and PLEASE...buy the extended warranty! You'll be glad you did just simply because you will not have to worry for 5 years about repairs. Repairs can be as a result of storms in your area. The best of luck to you!
It could be multiple problems, if so it's more than one of the below, it would be cheaper to buy a new unit.
Start by removing the front panel and check the belt and idler pulley/tensioner. Look for wear in both and make sure there isn't too much play (it should only move about a 1/2 inch when pushed on it's longest stretch. While you have the front open, inspect the pulley for damage or excessive play.
Another cause could be the transmission (it's just above the pulley). Look for fluid/oil leaks and/or rust. A bad oil leak can cause the transmission to seize up. If you notice rust accumulated on the transmission assembly, you probably have a bad seal. Water could have gotten in there causing it to fail. A damaged transmission needs to be replaced, repair parts are not available.
The cycling problem sounds like a faulty timer. Test it by advancing the dial and make sure the correct cycles are starting/stopping. This part can be replaced with a few simple tools.
As always, make sure you disconnect the power before doing any service.
The rear half of the outer tub, with bearing is part #
131525500 and it looks like the back "spider" shaft is not available as a separate part from the inner drum. The "spider" shaft is most likely worn or damaged and in need of replacement also.
Then, there's that strut
Now, two pain in the back side hours of your labor and you've got your washer back, at more than what a new one would cost! Junk it and get a new larger capacity front loader.
Please don't rate this, as anything but the top rating will lower my score. I'm just giving you my honest opinion, that your machine is not economical to repair. I've owned a LG front loader for over 6 years and think they are the best, but there are other good front loaders out there also.
Is this a HE2,5,4 model? Can you give me the model number from inside the door. If it's a front loader. The only way you can get it out is to totally tare it down, cement, springs, shocks, and crack apart the outer tub. Very very labor intense. Usually if the unit is out of warranty, the cost of a tech to do it isn't worth it. What's the issure with it?
how old iss your washer? do you have an owners manual. because usually there is an extended factory warrenty on the tub and basket. the only thing you would have to pay for would be the labor. Call whirlpool if you do not have a owners manual to find out. the bearing is compressed in the tub. does it sound like an airplain taking off in your house that's usually it.
One of the support arms on the back of the spin basket (stainless steel tub) is broken and causing it to spin in the fashion you describe. The only fix is to replace the spin basket. Using it in its current condition will cause serious damge to the outer tub shell. Let me know if you decide to replace it or need assistance locating a replacement tub. I can assist you in how to disassemble the washer and how to reinstall a new tub. Sorry...I wish this was better news.
The plastic casing (tub shell) around the stainless spin basket should not become worn unless the spin basket is hitting the outer shell. From my past experience, this is usually caused by a cracked or broken spin basket support (spider) arm on the back of the spin basket, or a shot tub bearing (which is also behind the spin basket). The bearing is actually part of the rear tub shell and is molded into the plastic. It cannot be replaced separately and requires the replacmeent of the shell.
If the spin basket supports become broken, the basket becomes off balance and rubs against the outer shell. This results in excessive vibration, which may be the reason why the support shocks were broken. No...this is not normally expected. Unfortnately, this is not a simple or inexpensive repair, either. If you have a service plan, or warranty coverage, I would recommend pursuing that as a repair option. If you wish to repair this yourself, I can post a link for you to follow, but it is expensive. This will usually require the replacement of the following parts:
Rear Tub Shell (if bearing is bad)
Front Tub Shell (if spin basket caused significant damage)
Support Shocks (I would recommend replacing all 4)
Drive Belt Pulley (can become warped or bent)
Drive Belt (if showing signs of wear)
Rubber Door Bellow (if vibration as caused damage to the rubber)
You can go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number to get prices for everything if you like. Everything can be found under the "Tub and Basket Parts" heading, with the exception of the rubber door bellow. It can be located under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading.
I know none of this sounds like positive news, but I do hope you find some of this information helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance.
I have the same problem, the drum attachment (casting) arms broke in two locations (out of the three available), caused serious havoc ... destroyed the outer plastic drum casing by disloding a screw and then dragging it around and gouging out a deep deep groove in the plastic casing, went right thru in one spot ...
Have to order the front drum (DC61-30346A, $45) and the stainless steel drum/casting assembly (DC97-00785A, $200) and rebuild the whole unit.