Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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No heat i have a roper front load dryer model number is REX4635EQ2, had heating element tested and is fine, but i still have no heat, an other suggestions. Thank you, Donna

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There is a cheap way you can fix this which I have been doing you years!! Yes i said years... First of all the heater elements are expensive so what i did is opened up the back and found the heater element and un screwed it. you see a bunch of springs and you will see that there is a break in the spring. all you need to di is overlap the spring and replace back in. Now replace the back shield and connect back the hose. and plug in. Now each time i do this it last for about a month as long as you don't over fill the dryer. NOW THE DANGEROUS PART! I have had to do this so many times that i no longer put the shield back on so i can easily get back to the element and patch it which does leave me open to lint getting into the coils and burning up..... This has never happened be aware of this. THE BEST THING I EVER DID FOR THIS DRYER IS TAKE A BLOWER AND BLOW FAST AIR INTO THE HOLE IN THE WALL AND THIS HELPED SO MUCH!! THERE WAS A LINT STORM IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD BUT THIS HELPED A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

*** UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING *** PLEASE

remember it would be bad business to make the element last forever but you can extend the life for years doing this!!

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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Most common cause is burn out of the thermal cut-out. These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
Clean the exhaust ducts all the way to the outside wall, lots of vent hoods block over time. then examin the exhaust duct for devices that look like this no heat - 67529a5.jpg or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a flashlilight bulb or meter conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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Roper dryer won't heat up. Model REX4635EQ2. how do you change the heating elements?


Before you start diagnosing your problem, ascertain that you have made a proper and positive heat selection on the control panel, then proceed.

Below is a link courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, which shows disassembly/diagnostic procedures.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Electric-Whirlpool-Style-Version-2-Appliance-Diagram

A volt-ohm meter (VOM) will be helpful in diagnosing most issues.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2076998_use-voltohm-meter-safely.html?ref=fuel&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=yssp_art

Purchase a VOM
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HHMA&Nav=vhtj06

Below are the next 4 common failure modes to check.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

If all the above checks allright, then proceed to the next steps below.

Thermal overload/cutoff thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%
3d%3di2651&PartID=2651


Cycling thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2893&PartID=2893


Motor Centrifugal Switch.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2584&PartID=2584


Heating Element Connection Wire.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di3140&PartID=3140


Timer.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di548371&PartID=548371

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1 Answer

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The most common cause of no heat to an otherwise functioning dryer is failure of the thermal cutout.
As well as the electric line fuses in the circuit there are devices that look like this 13889aa.jpg or this 284f4e0.jpg screwed to the exhaust air duct with wires to the terminals
, inside the dryer. If there is a lint blockage in the duct or fan or outside vent hood, the air tempoerature rises and melts out this thermal cutout (also thermal fuse, heat protector, heat cutout & any other names different makers use) before causing a fire.
Test with an ohmmeter or battery and lamp bulb, conducts good, no conducts fail-replace.
Despite the number of models of dryer there are only a few thermal fuses, and the local parts guy WILL have the blown one on the shelf, as GE if not as roper part.

Whil the dryer case is opened is a good time to vacuum out the exhaust vents, fan impeller, and vent hood. ounce of prevention and all that

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