No spark at spark plugs and coil has tested good, there is sufficient current at pick up off the cam as well, bike ridden through hard rain and started acting up during ride and eventually shut down 10 miles later, unable to start due to no spark.

overheating shouldn't be an issue. unless the pistons have been modified for hi-compression and inadequate octane is being used and it's being operated in high temperature region,i don't see an overheating issue. I have ridden these bikes in areas like death valley,las vegas and throughout the southwest and these engine won't heat enough to seize up. with ample fuel and spark during an attempted restart,the only reasonable possibility is your pick-up coil inside the cam cover. this inductive coil is in a heat sensitive area. this coil is mounted on a movable plate that affects timing. ,With adequate amount of fuel and a healthy spark you have all the ingredients of a start and run condition. this points to the direction of proper time and possibly a heat related condition. you may want to look into the pick up coil inside the timing cover. if it's original it has serve you well.While in this area,inspect the three wires attached to the pickup coil.

Could be an ignition module. Check the coil first.

Check your pick-up sensor located inside the timing cover, behind the adjustor plate. If the filament is not intact you will have no spark.
A defective coil, cam position sensor, or stator will also cause a no spark condition.

First check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). THEN check the condition of the battery and do a voltage test
and recharge the battery if it is below 12.60V. THEN check the condition and tightness of the battery connections
and perform either a conductance test or a load test and replace the battery if and as necessary. THEN remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and remove the plug and visually check the condition of the plug. THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.

Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.

Test Results
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.

A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.

Test the stator those go in them quite a bit

This can be one of five things,

1: The coil is bad
2: The cdi is bad
3: The stator
4: The stator pickup
5: Bad plug

Use a spark plug tester on the coil to test for current, if it doesn't have current to the plug work your way backwards toward the stator, testing each item for current in and out.

get a copper wire and get it connected to any metal object like a bicycle.

then get another copper wire connected to the the spark plug's connector cap. rub the wires while kicking the bike start or trying it to start, if no spark goes off, meaning you have to change your coils, or something is disconnected or burnt from the coil

last time that happened to mine, I had got rain water in to the coil where the spark plug wires plug in to it. Your owners manual should have a pretty good explanation on how to manually check the codes, at least mine does. God luck, electrical gremlins can really be elusive.

If it ran before, I would double check your electrical connections. Its more likely you didn't get a connector pushed all the way together or left off a ground wire. The ignition coil specs are generally 1 ohm or less on the primary (small Wire) side, and 5K-10K ohms on the secondary (spark plug) side. Each side should be tested to ground. Pick-up coils are typically open or really large ohm reading in Megaohms normally and around 100 ohms when the magnet on the flywheel passes by. there is no way to test the CDI box other than putting it on a know running bike or getting a known good CDI and putting it on your bike. Double check that the spark plug cap is secured to the high tension lead as well. Testing the stator is a little more complicated, but a quick way is to close the gap on an old spark plug to about 0.010" and see if there is a week spark. If so, the stator will need to be replaced.