Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
I have a Kenmore (mod# 110.24722300) that will fill up with water and then stop. There is no noise and it literally just sits there. I even tried manually turning the dial to jump start it to a cycle but I get nothing. Lately I have noticed that it has been making a clicking noise in between cycles and taking a few minutes longer than normal to go from one cycle to the next. The machine is not quite 4 years old.
You have a broken point inside the timer. I hate to say that there is no cheap solution. You will have to replace the timer. There is no rebuild kit or anything like that to repair the timer. I know of two suppliers where you can buy a replacement. I use these sometimes when I regular supplier hasn't got a part in stock. I checked the price at both for you and found the best price at www.appliancepartspro.com . their cost if $123.08 plus shipping. They ship same day if before 4:ooPM. Their Part Number: AP3020181 . When you go to their site enter either your model number or this part number. If you enter you model #, scroll down until you find the timer, Th part # will take you straight to it. I sure hope this helps.
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Posted on Sep 07, 2009
The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Top and Cabinet" heading for item number 11 for the lid switch and item number 20 for the lid strike (if needed). If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:
This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
PS This is a common problem experienced by this line of washing machines. To prevent future failures, do not slam the washer lid or place anything heavy on the lid. Repeatedly slamming the lid to get it to work, or manipulating the timer can also cause more potential problems.
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
Hi, When the cycle is in spin, do you hear the motor at all? If the motor is not running, it could be the lid switch. Try pushing down on the lid and see if it starts the washer.
Does the washer agitate? I am asking because, If the washer doesn't agitate or spin, it could be the coupler or transmission. Just wanting to narrow down the problem for you.
Please let me knwo if any of this helps you.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet. See the Sears diagrams on the control panel and cabinet to see where / how the switch connects.
Posted on Nov 24, 2010
SOURCE: Where is the control panel
You remove some screws on older models. Newer models simply have spring clips.
Your washer (I looked it up on sears parts) has a timer.
That timer has a knob that screws off and then you remove the dial indication escutcheon and the mounting screws can then be removed to swap out that timer.
This is the connection to the lid switch. You gotta unplug that to
remove the case so you can get to the inner components.
The connection has a green ground wire and 2 wires that go off
to the lidswitch. If the lid is shut and you cannot get an ohms reading
between them 2 then the lidswitch is bad.
With the case off you can start the washer and put it on spin mode and figure out if you have 120 volts to this connection for that lid switch. Placing a jumper between the 2 hot wires will allow you to wash or spin with the case off to hunt for noises and leaks while the machine is in operation.
I have a few pages I compiled on this direct drive washer with more videos and photos, service manual added.
How it works: direct drive washer
Top loading Kenmore notes
Posted on Feb 07, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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