Question about Fahrenheat Electric Convector Baseboard Heater, 240 Volt

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Installing new base boards

Just wondering on a 1500 or 2000 240 volts how any on theses can i connect to one circuit, and whats the standard wire ty you

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  • jim wells Sep 12, 2008

    i have the same problem, i have a 240 v fahrenheat f2544 electric convector baseboard heater, i would like a diagram or help with the wiring, i havefour wires from box.red/hot black/hot...white groung and bare ground

  • promed Dec 04, 2008

     i have a base board heater blower and the power is there but it did not turn on please advise wiring

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Convert the watts to amps or get the amp rating off the device, this will tell you the minimal wire size, and then you will need to measure the distance from the breaker to the device, that will determine if the wire size needs to be increased for a long distance.

Example the 1500 uses 20 amps and 20 amps requires #12. 20 amps on a #12 is good for 100 feet anything further and you have to go up a wire size.

Take the amp rating and distance to the hardware store and they will have the chart and the correct wire for you to use. In the US 220 or 240 used to be three wire, 2 hots and a neutral through a double pole breaker, now the new NEC rules demand 4 wires for 220 volt devices, so you will need to check with whatever local code authority as to what they want on new installs versus replacement, if you are grandfathered in some way.

As to the four wires above, from the box, is that the heater box or circuit breaker box? In either case, the two hots go through their own breaker, called a double pole breaker, at the correct amperage rating. the white which is neutral and yes ground, is tied to the neutral bar in the breaker box, the bare or green, goes from the frame of the heater or the chassis, some common metal part, probably a green screw in the heater, and then in the breaker box, it will wire in with the rest of the bare grounds, this is a four wire 220 connection where they have quit using the white neutral as the only ground, and have insisted on adding this fourth bare chassis ground.

Once you have the correct wire size for the amperage, and the correct breaker size, and the wire size does not exceed the max limits for the size, you should be good to go.

However if you are concerned you can pull this off, pay a pro to do it, it is not worth a fire on a heater wiring job, for a few bucks on the install, it happens to often and not worth it, I have written on hear now several times, and have no responses, I have over thirty years in electrical devices including NEXRAD RADAR, motors above 5000 HP and understand all this, and the dangers.

Again wbwill@sbcglobal.net, or allexperts.com

I am not sure about fees, if there are any they go through this system in all fairness.

Will

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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Why do the house lights flicker and dim when I turn on my HP Laserjet printer? Once it shows it's ready, the lights return to normal.


1) The printer is on a circuit that is close to overloaded.

The printer power needed, is just enough to push the load, to the edge of too much.

I do not know what country you are in, but let me use the USA as an example.
The USA uses 120 Volts (AC)

In the Service Panel, (Circuit breaker panel), there are circuit breakers used for receptacles, and lighting. The standard size of circuit breaker to use for these types of circuits, is a 20 Amp breaker.
( 20 Amperes)

120 Volts times 20 Amps = 2400 Watts
(120 Volts X 20 Amps = 2400 Watts)

This is THE maximum load this circuit will take.

Come close to this maximum load (2400 Watts), and the lights may flicker.
Solution is to use a different receptacle, that is not as loaded with appliances, etc.
(The receptacle will be on a different circuit)

[ I would also remove some of the load off of that circuit. With 2400 Watts available, one should only use a load that is close to using 2100 or 2200 Watts.

This leaves a cushion of 200 to 300 Watts if needed.
If there is an appliance that has an electric motor in it, (Refrigerator for one example), you need a 'buffer zone' of at least 200 to 300 Watts.

Someone needs to go through, and see what all is connected to this one circuit. (One circuit breaker) Then that person needs to go through, and see that the circuit will not be overloaded, by varying what can be plugged into this circuit, or used on this circuit, at one time ]

There is another thing however that I would like you to have checked by a professional.

I need to explain how power comes into a Service Panel in your home, first.

There are 3 main large cables coming into the Service Panel, at the top.
(From the Service Meter can outside)

Two Conductor wires that carry the power, and 1 Neutral wire. (There is also a bare copper Ground wire. More on that in a moment)

http://www.make-my-own-house.com/diagram-electrical-home-wiring.html

Again, using the USA as an example, there is 240 Volts (AC) coming in to the Service Panel.

There are 3 thick wires covered in insulation. (Black)

One thick wire is 120 Volts. It connects to a power lug at the top of the Service Panel, inside the Service Panel, and connects to the Left side.
(Only seen if the cover of the Service Panel is removed.
You? NO. Professional? YES)

Another thick wire also carries 120 Volts, and connects to a separate lug at the top of the Service Panel, on the inside of the Service Panel.
This lug is on the Right side.

The last thick wire is a Neutral wire.
It connects to a lug in the Middle.

[ LUG = Square/rectangular piece of metal Base, with square piece of metal Top.
There is a screw going though the top, and into the base.
Tightening the screw squeezes the Top and Base together ]

Electricity coming into your home, or business is AC.
Alternating Current.
AC vibrates. It vibrates the wires.

After time the vibration can loosen the connection, of the wire to the Lug. (Screw vibrates loose)
This can also cause the lights to flicker.

With the wire connection being loose, Resistance is created.
Resistance creates Heat.
Heat creates FIRE.

Please have these connections checked in your Service Panel by a professional. I want you to be safe.

For additional questions, or to have me explain anything I have stated in more detail, please post back in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

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1 Answer

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To properly install your dryer, you must determine the type of
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