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Kenmore model # 110.24972300 Type : 111 There is a "whirring" sound when all movment cycles run and when it finishes the agitation and starts to drain - the agitator and tub start to move (almost a ****) and then they do not move - if I lift the lid for a second or two and close it again it starts spinning - the "whirring sound is louder when it spins. Could this be the clutch?

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5 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: Kenmore Washer won't Agitate

gearbox internal fault, major repair, not really a do it yourself job.

Posted on Dec 25, 2007

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Spin Cycle

you can check the direct drive coupling between the motor and the transmission, if the coupling is good and not broken then you have a transmission problem

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore washer (model # 110 24872300) won't agitate.

Your machine has no belt. It has a direct drive coupling. The direct drive coupling between the motor and transmission must be replaced.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: Washing Machine wont spin/agitate

The most common problem is the lid switch. with a screw driver in hand open the lid and press down on the lid switch. sometimes the mounting screws will crack the switch housing and the striker can't move the actuator far enough. I am interested in the clicking noise, as this could indicate a pump issue or a sock seizing up the tub.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Won't spin, makes clunking noise, drains fine

If it agitates fine , with normal noise , drains with lid closed , then the problem is probably the transmission .

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

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Kenmore Elite HE4T Washing Machine Diagnostic Test Didn't complete and clothes aren't spun as dry as in the past I have a Kenmore Elite HE4T washing machine and I noticed that recently it isn't getting all of the clothes completely dry from the final spin cycle. Thus, the dryer has to run through two cycles to get the clothes dry. I did a bunch of research and made sure there weren't any kinks or blockages in the drain lines; and opened up the bottom of the washer and cleaned out the drain cleanout. I found a few pennies, but everything seemed to be working ok. I ran a load and had the bottom open so that I could make sure the motor, drain and belt were all working properly. The drain does get the water out of the washer, so the clothes aren't sitting in water, they just don't seem to be spun as fast or as long as they used to. I always put it on the "extra high" spin setting no matter which type of load I run. So, I found a way to run the diagnostic test on the washer and it went through C0-C5 (the agitation step) and all worked great, until it wouldn't come out of C5 after at least 10 minutes and go thru C6-C8. I had to cancel the diagnostic test and hit the "drain and spin" button to get all of the water back out of the washer. BTW, the "drain and spin" seems to get the clothes a bit drier than when I have it run through the "normal" cycle with the "extra high" spin. If anyone has any other thoughts, I would really appreciate it. This unit is in a small space with the dryer attached so to take it out and do repairs is a pretty big hassle. It has had a new control board and two new fill valves in the 10+ years that I have owned it. Questions I have: 1.should I remove the entire drain pump to make sure there isn't anything lodged in it? 2. could it be the belt slipping slightly and keeping the spin from reaching its 1200 RPMs? 3. Anything else I may be missing???

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