I have a CG5 mount. The 'on' switch is very touchy when starting up the hand paddle. Sometimes it switches on and other times I have to fiddle with the switch to turn on the computer. Has any other users had this problem? I have a friend who recently changed the switch to a toggle. What can I do to remedy this 'touchy switch'? Thanks! Val Akins [email protected]

Can you hear the motor running even though the axis does not move? If it is, then all that is possibly needed is to realign the motor on its mounting with the driven gear of the axis. This situation is not uncommon in the CG5. Here is a site with a lot of links and information

http://www.astronomyboy.com/cg5/

If the motor is not running at all, it may be the motor has failed, or more likely, the motor controller circuit board has failed. There is a lot of stuff on the Net about that and it seems spare parts are getting hard to find. In that case you may have to return it to a Celestron dealer.

The problem has also arisen before here on Fixya, so you could examine those posts as well

http://www.fixya.com/support/t4329122-celestron_advanced_gt_declination_motor

You should return the scope under warranty-- however a bad power supply-- and or a bad hand controller cable can cause these symptoms called a "runaway slew".

Get a separate 12 volt power supply and the proper cigarette lighter style power plug.

This sounds like the key switch. When you have a case like this where everything seems to get power, but when you're starting it and it seems "touchy," you've most likely got a bad switch.

I hope this helps! :)

This is known issue with these mounts. The little on-off power switch breaks- you will either need to send it back to Celestron or open it up and have someone install a new switch.

Most of us never use the switch-- we just plug--- and unplug the power cable.

I would check to see if you are getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the starting position. If so, you may have a bad starter or solenoid.

you must have a very touchy micro-switch that closes when the bin is replaced, try this, leave the ice bin out and manually operate any place where the ice bin would touch and operate/move any levers,paddles,arms, etc and see if it starts dropping ice then,you'll find the right zone, then you should be able to just replace the switch

The orignal problem would have been a loose or misaligned door switch or holder on the lower door switch.

We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

Page 37 shows the proper wiring and page 34 covers the switch adjustment.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

Instead of replacing the switch mount, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

I would recommend replace both the upper and lower switch now. You can order a universal type here for $5 each postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

That would be a bad primary interlock switch (bottom door switch) or its mount is loose or broken.

See this link: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

Otherwise, the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

You can also call them at 866-779-5835.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

My window will go down bue it will not go up