I have a Wickes 800 S/F Quadrant - Central opening shower cubicle - Item number 160576. This was bought in June 2008 and the part that fits into the runners at the top of the door to allow opening/shuting has broken. The door fell off at the top runner due to the part that holds the screw in place has worn away (as it is only plastic!). Can you buy this part separately?

I bought the rubber donut when I bought my shower. It slides down over the 2 inch PVC drain pipe and seals against the drain hub
The Swan Corporation •515 Olive Street, Suite 1800 St. Louis, MO 63101 p (800)325-7008 •.St Louis, MO 63101 p (800)325-7008
Talk to the about the drain it comes with their shower base. Also go to plumbing sup[ply and talk to them
Also go to hHD and look at
Sioux Chief 2 in PVC Shower Drain with Strainer 828 2PK The Home Depot

Somehow you have to get that pipe coming back through the wall of the shower.
There is a pipe with threads on it that the nozzle threads onto.
Once you can get that pipe back through the shower wall you can thread the steam nozzle back on.
If the steam nozzle has been replaced onto the threaded pipe you can trouble shoot your steamer as to why there is no steam coming out.

ROD
U S Parts Center

try

www.hotpoint-spares.uk

www.ebay.co.uk/aquarius+parts

Usually Saniflo requires 8" or 9" from top of p-trap to floor level, not from top of shower base to floor level. If the base is raised 8" then you will have enough room to fit a p-trap without cutting the concrete, if you had cut the floor to fit the p-trap then the base is not raised high enough to maintain the water pressure inside to engage the unit.

You can use about any replacement staples from a D.I.Y. store:
8mm staples or 12mm U-type staples or 10mm T-type nails

the solenoid has failed,thus not opening up to allow water flow,i have found that spares are fairly expensive for tritan. if you find out the rating ie 7.5 kw etc then buy a replacement shower from wickes their showers are tritan and are normally like for like fitting,also a lot cheaper than showers that have tritan marked on them.

You generally put the seal in and cut it flush with the edges of the doors and then using pliers or vise grips squeeze the end of channel on to seal to hold it in place. Thank you

If you had it installed by some one have them come back and rewire it correctly and if you did it get out the wiring diagram and check your wiring.

You can also get remote units that connect to the same terminals that you would hard wire a button to. You really do want a later remote, as they all now use rolling code technology. Essentially you have to "invite" a remote and the unit and remote agree on a code. From that time on, the code changes every time that you use the remote (automatically, you do nothing). Way better security, and a guy cannot just run a frequency generator and open your door.