Rattle Problem w/ subwoofer

Would need the model number. They made several different models over the years.

Your code is 5 4 2 2

Fuses?

You want stranded wire, speaker wire, 14 - 12 gauge

Try filling the inside of the enclosure with insulation [roof insulation will work ] or a small pillow just to see if its the box or the driver rattling if its the driver you might have to secure it to the enclosure with screws or something ,

OK, Subwoofer model number is SA-WSIS10and you need middle speaker mounted on top under following part number..
1-826-658-11 LOUDSPEAKER (12 cm) (MIDDLE)
Available in Part Store.

12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils

Kevlar reinforced pulp cone with Santoprene™ rubber surround

cast aluminum frame with perimeter venting

frequency response: 25-500 Hz

power handling: 200-500 watts RMS (250 watts per coil)

peak power: 1,500 watts

sensitivity: 85 dB

top-mount depth: 7-5/8"

sealed box volume: 0.57-1.0 cu. ft.

ported box volume: 0.75-2.0 cu. ft.

For rock, i actually have 2 seperate 12's in slot port boxes i built facing forward. Facing forward reduces a little resonance and spl, but keeps alot of that annoying rattle off your tag lol

Hope this helps :)

this is in response to the post below:

I just bot a basslink t and i wired it up and nothing it just keeps blowing the fues in the unit i got mine on ebay so i dont know if i can use the warranty dose anybody have an ida for me- britter623

I got a used basslink about a month ago and had the exact same prob kept blowing fuses...found out that the voice coil had blown on the infinity...so I had a brand new dvc polk 10 sittin in the closet, I swapped them out, put the polk in the place of the infinity sub, however, the magnet is much larger, hence, dual voice coil, it would rattle sooo much from the passive radiator against the magnet, also could not turn the gain up at all due to the rattle. I got the bright idea to build a "custom fiberglas enclosure for the polk and incorporate the infinity's parts(amp/control) I finished the box finally last night and hooked it up this morning, no power, no lights, no nothing! s@#%, F&@%! ANyone had a prob w/the amp not having the lights turn on, no power??? Hope that helps about your fuse blowing issue.

See the rear cone, spider and voice coil junction at rest and when cone is manually lifted outward/forward.Then you can easily tell if the spider has separated, as there is little pressure needed to move the cone manually, in and out of the gap. Compare that pressure to your good sub. If there is a notable difference in physical pressure to move either cone, you can rest assured that the spider is not moving or providing resistance to cone manipulation. This is a sure sign of spider/coil joint failure and can easily be sees as you conduct these tests. If that is what you see then repair it or change with new one

Sounds like the power supply in the subwoooooooofer box is dying.

Replace the whole thing . It's going to be the best way out.