Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have to find out why the compressor shuts down at 28 degress rather than going on to zero?
You probably need a voltmeter to see what shuts down at 28. The thermostat may be faulty.
What is stopping the compressor from continued opertion until zero freezer degrees is reached?
Posted on May 01, 2009
Heat exchanger was iced over, took a hair dryer and melted ice. I think defrost heater element is bad will check it this week end. I put a new computer in the frige about 3 mounths ago and will check if it has gone bad. The compressor is working fine.
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
First of all you need to clean the coils (condenser coils under the unit or evaporator coils inside the freezer). The coils inside could be iced over because of failure of defrost system. Now check that the condenser fan under the fridge is working properly. Check that the fan in the freezer work which pulls cold air from the coils inside freezer and blows it to the fridge side. Are the temperature control knobs in the fridge adjusted correctly? It actually just opens a vent to let more or less cold air in from the freezer. It takes a while for the ice to build up in the freezer enough to affect the cooling.
My first guess would be the defrost timer. You can manually turn it to engage the defrost cycle and observe whether or not the defrost heaters come on. Now use a hair dryer to speed up melting the ice when there is lots of ice buildup. Most timers are 24 hour timers. It will turn the defroster on every 6 or maybe 12 hours depending on the model.
Before testing the defrost heater, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
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Posted on Jun 24, 2009
This is what to do. On the side of the compressor is a relay overload set. Unplug the power cord. Connect a meter to the wires going into that set. If there is no power you will need the mother board linked below. If there is power you will need another overload relay set.
Posted on May 20, 2010
SOURCE: GE Profile fridge: freezer is
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I understand based on your post you have a GE profile PFS22MIS fridge not cooling in the fridge (upper cabinet) section, correct ?.
It is possible the problem is related to the condensor fan, but not likely. The difference with these fridges and many others (especially the older fridges) is the condensor fan does not run all the time. Instead the control board at the back (pcb) tells it when to run and at what rpm to run as well, it is a variable speed fan motor...and may in fact not run at all at periods.
The one thing I'd suggest you inspect is the back wall of the freezer. You mentioned the evaporator fan motor is operating, correct ? Is there any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer section, or if not visible have you removed the back wall of the freezer ?
I will need to watch for your reply before going forward. I hope you can appreciate there are so many variables since the fridge has many factors controlling air flow which in turn determine what the possible problem and solution will be.
Sounds to me it is a damper or blocked evaporator initially at least. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
Posted on Sep 20, 2011
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