Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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DRYER WILL NOT HEAT. THE HEATING ELEMENT (#14) HAS BEEN REPLACED, AS WELL AS THE THERMAL CUT OFF (#47) AND THE THERMOSTAT (#48). THE THERMISTER AND THE THERMAL FUSE HAVE GOOD CONTINUITY ALSO. THE HOME FUSES HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND RESET STILL NOTHING. THE VOLTS HAVE BEEN CHECKED, 245.8 (BETWEEN THE BLACK AND RED WIRES) AND 122.3(RESPECTFULLY, BETWEEN THE RED AND WHITE WIRES AND THE BLACK AND WHITE WIRES). THE DRYER HAS BEEN TESTED BY RUNNING IT IN ALL POSSIBLE MODE COMBINATINS. MY MODEL DOESN'T HAVE A SCREEN TO TEST FOR FAULT CODES. IT ONLY HAS THE MINUTES REMAINING NUMBERS AND THERE ARE NO CODES ON IT. THE TIMER IS STILL WORKING LIKE NORMAL. QUESTION: COULD THE CONTROL PANEL HAVE GONE "T-U, TANGO UNIFORM"???

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  • vwlugnut Aug 08, 2010

    THE LINT FILTER AND HOSE ARE CLEAN AND THE AIR IS FREE FLOWING TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSE

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You should check the voltage between the terminal of the heating element leading to the high-limit thermostat and the white wire mentioned in your post while the dryer is running. Do the same to the other terminal of the heating element. You should get about 120 VAC on both measurements. The problem lies in the components in and between the timer/control board, depending on the model of the dryer, and heating element if you don't get the 120 VAC in the first reading. The problem lies in the motor centrifugal switch if you don't get the 120 VAC in the second reading.

Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information or post comments and follow-up questions. Accepting a solution does not stop you from communicating with an expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

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1 Answer

Kenmore dryer blows cold air. I replaced heat element still no luck? model 96263800


It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Mar 25, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No a kenmore 80 series dryer will not heat . if the heating elment is good & fuse is good what else could be the problem


The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Mar 09, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

1 Answer

Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Feb 01, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryers tumbles but there is no heat


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My kenmore series 500 dryer does not heat up


The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0809032-00003.png


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).

2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool gew9868kq2 runs, all program panel lights work no heat under any setting


you may need the element which is #14 in the attached breakdown, part #3387747. OR, it could be a thermostat(s) #47 & 48 come in a thermal cut off kit, part #3977394 and #42 is an internal bias thermostat and the part # is 3976615. hope this helps.

Nov 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Neptune dryer , model number mde9700ayw, have replaced thermostat number 1,2 and 3. thermister also. heating element has continuity. motor runs and dryer still does not heat. spec sheet says membrane...


Have you tested the heating element itself? There is also a timer control, and a centrifugal motor contact in the element circuit. There is.
also a thermal fuse...

Jul 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 90 Series ~ Model # 66912690 Electric Dryer, spins but does NOT heat, any suggestions what the problem could be?


The following link explains the dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Make sure you perform all component checks with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper dryer ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation that leads to dryer overheating to the point of failure. If you can't remember the last time you had your ventilation checked or cleaned, I would recommend you do so before replacing any failed components. Failure to do so may result in undesired drying results and premature failure of any components you have replaced.

The most common cause of dryer heat failure is a blown thermal cut-out (TCO). This component acts as a fuse and will blow when an overheat condition occurs. If it is determined that the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of replaced components. In many cases, the manufacturer sells these parts as a set (more cost effective to purchase this way, too). Both these components are located on the heater box adjacent to the heating element.

To access, remove the lower panel under the dryer door. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife along the seam at the top of the panel about two inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip that needs to be depressed to release the panel. With the panel removed, the heating circuits are located on the right hand side under the drum. You can view drawings of your dryer at searspartsdirect.com by entering your model number. Use model number "110.66912690" for your search criteria. The heating circuits are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading. The heating element is listed as item number 14. The thermal cut-out is listed as item 47 and the hi-limit thermostat is item 48. NOTE: You can find the TCO and hi-limit thermostat sold as a set at appliancepartspros.com as part number AP3094224 (Your Kenmore dryer is manufactured by Whirlpool). This could save you some $ if one of these components is your problem.

If you have questions along the way, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jan 12, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer run but i get no heat


I replaced the thermister and it solved the problem

Jul 21, 2008 | Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer

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