Question about Infinity Reference 1300a Car Audio Amplifier

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I have an infinity 1300a amp. I have had this amp for about a year or so with no problems. I've been away for 5 months for school and when i came back i immediately turned my car on and listened to them. They worked great, but the next day when i tried them the protect light comes on and off pulsing the subs in and out. I have checked all wires and everything seems to be in good condition. any ideas?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Thunping coming from subs when car is turned off.

2 things to try, one. run your RCAs on the opposite side of the car as the positive wire. if you still hear the thumping try changing your RCAs. if you still hear the thumping, try a different anp or head unit. if you still hear the thumping, your subs are blown. best of luck

Posted on May 11, 2009

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SOURCE: 1300a, no sound, protect light

if u have the amp bridged un bridge it. chack an see wat the ohms are on the subs an make sure the amp is stable to carry the ohm load..if u have 4ohm subs one sub per channel then u shud be fine that wud make the amp see 4ohms but if u have dual voice coil subs it cud be the configuration of the subs..here's a link on how to wire subs hope this help..http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=145

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

caroldon
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SOURCE: Infinity 1300a car amp won't turn off...

The possible area is definitely in the stanby switching circuit. A damage to the relay drive has made the power to be continuously on without the remote switch. You can have two solutions, one you can ignore the fault for the time being and connect a second relay fromt the system to trigger the relay and subsequently switch the amplifier main power. Or you must open the set and look in the remote switching area for a jammed relay, a faulty transistor drive or activation of the bias to the relay drive by a faulty component. Check this out with a good multimeter and you will solve the issue. I hope my advice helps. Good day

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

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The possible area is definitely in the stanby switching circuit. A damage to the relay drive has made the power to be continuously on without the remote switch. You can have two solutions, one you can ignore the fault for the time being and connect a second relay fromt the system to trigger the relay and subsequently switch the amplifier main power. Or you must open the set and look in the remote switching area for a jammed relay, a faulty transistor drive or activation of the bias to the relay drive by a faulty component. Check this out with a good multimeter and you will solve the issue. I hope my advice helps. Good day

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Wires being hooked up is fine. With no lights coming on the question becomes one of power.

Ground needs to be grounded.
+12VDC should have +12VDC
Remote should also have +12VDC when the stereo is on.

Check these with a volt meter. Negative lead on the ground terminal, Positive on +12V then Remote.

Both combinations should read +12VDC.

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2 things to try, one. run your RCAs on the opposite side of the car as the positive wire. if you still hear the thumping try changing your RCAs. if you still hear the thumping, try a different anp or head unit. if you still hear the thumping, your subs are blown. best of luck

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Hello shaymus_hoos,

No, it isn't supposed to work that way. Although amps are usually wired with the positive directly to the vehicle battery, they aren't supposed to turn on unless power is supplied on the remote wire.

The problem is most likely in either the head unit or one of the amps. And if not corrected, the amps will sooner or later, completely drain the battery.

First see if it works properly with just one amp connected. Remove the remote turn-on from 1 amp at a time and test with the vehicle and head unit off and then on. If the problem is still there with just one amp connected, either the head unit is at fault or the remote wire is picking up 12V somewhere along it's path to the amps. Make sure you have it connected to the right wire on the Kenwood. Every Kenwood I've seen uses blue/white for the remote wire.

If both amps work OK separately, one of the amps is causing the problem. You may be able to correct it by using a relay to electrically separate the turn-on signal for each amp. You'll need a "double-throw, single-throw" type of relay. Here's a link to the Basic Car Audio Electronics web site that details the connections http://www.bcae1.com/. Connect the remote wire coming from the head unit to one side of the relay coil and ground the other side. Bring 12V positive from an "accessory" lead that is hot only when the ignition is in either the "ON" or "ACCESSORY" positions to one side of both sets of relay contacts (it doesn't matter which side). Connect the other sides of the relay contacts, one to each amp turn-on connector.

Hope this helps.

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