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LG DLE7177 electric Dryer will not turn on. Checked the breaker, checked the door light, and cleaned the filter sensor. Any suggestions? Is there a fuse to this dryer? If so where is it located?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • bestcell Aug 08, 2010

    This information is insufficient and wish to get further assistance from other experts.

  • bestcell Aug 08, 2010

    Information is insufficient and wish to get further assistance.

  • bestcell Aug 08, 2010

    This information is insufficient and wish to get further assistance.

  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    information insufficient wish to get further assistance.

  • bestcell Aug 18, 2010

    no help

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6 Answers

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  • Master
  • 10,865 Answers

Hi. There are about 4 possible causes:

Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker. Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

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  • Dryers Master
  • 3,051 Answers

Hello there:
When a dryer go on the blits there are several areas that could be causing this I have provided some troubleshooting steps for you to take
Please have each of these tested
Door switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    I removed and checked the thermistor mounted next to the thermostat a 1 inch long metal like probe with two wires coming out it, is that the thermal fuse? I checked with ohm meter has no continuity. Is that my problem?

  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    I removed and checked the thermistor mounted next to the thermostat a 1 inch long metal like probe with two wires coming out it, is that the thermal fuse? I checked with ohm meter has no continuity. Is that my problem?

  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    I removed and checked the thermistor mounted next to the thermostat a 1 inch long metal like probe with two wires coming out it, is that the thermal fuse? I checked with ohm meter has no continuity. Is that my problem?

  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    I removed and checked the thermistor mounted next to the thermostat a 1 inch long metal like probe with two wires coming out it, is that the thermal fuse? I checked with ohm meter has no continuity. Is that my problem?

  • bestcell Aug 09, 2010

    I meant " thermistor mounted next to the thermostat in the back of the blower hosuing"

  • Michael Thomas
    Michael Thomas Aug 10, 2010

    Hello t6here
    yes when you are showing no continuity this is a bad thing itis tellinig you that there is a short or a open wire meaning the wire is broke inside of the component that you are testing you should always have some sort of continuity ok this should be replaced than further tests should be ran unless the problem has been corrected ok?
    best regards mike


  • Michael Thomas
    Michael Thomas Aug 20, 2010



    Electric
    dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some
    components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element
    requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be
    fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be
    caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of
    the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the
    dryer, then:






















    If
    the circuit breakers or fuses remain on and/or intact when the dryer is
    unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the dryer. Contact a
    qualified appliance repair technician.






















    If
    the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is
    unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box,
    or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.





  • Michael Thomas
    Michael Thomas Aug 25, 2010

    Hello there and i am so sorry for not gettting back to you sooner
    Yes if you are showing no continuity this is a bad thing ok youshould always have some continuity anything above 2 is good ok

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  • Dryers Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

There is no fuse. If there is no power at all, then first diagnostic is done reading power from power cord and power at control assembly.

If the dryer is not starting test thermostats and door latch. Door latch is tested by jumping its contacts. Thermostats are tested reading Ohms to ensure that they have continuity at room (circuit not open).

Here Parts Breakdown.

Parts and diagrams are also available from Sears:DLE7177RM

Here thermostats.

Here door switch (part 330 in diag).


Posted on Aug 08, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • bestcell Aug 08, 2010

    There is no power at all. I have power to the outlet, all the way to the washer. Do i still need to check the door switch or the thermostat even if the dryer does not come on? if so what would the ohm reading be for the thermostat at room temp?

  • bestcell Aug 08, 2010

    i meant dryer not washer

  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 10, 2010

    Re: There is no power at all. I have power to the outlet, all the way to the
    washer.

    Here there is need to read volts to control board as said.

    Do i still need to check the door switch or the thermostat even
    if the dryer does not come on? if so what would the ohm reading be for
    the thermostat at room temp?

    Thermostat at room temp reads zero or very low impedance (0.01 Ohms or so, that is of no importance), thermostat is conductive at room and has no continuity at limit temp, when it cuts off.

    Regards.


  • bestcell Aug 11, 2010

    I have 30 or less volts to the control board. According to the diagram two of the 4 wires are leading to the heater box. I refered to the diagram, it looks like there is a safety thermostat. How would i be abale to test that?

  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 11, 2010

    I told you, to test the thermostat remove the thermostat and read Ohms with thermostat cold. If it reads zero is OK , if it stays infinity or open (digital multimeter), then the thermostat is bad.

  • bestcell Aug 11, 2010

    All the thermostats in the dryer are reading open, however i do not have a digital multimeter.

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

Check the door switch as they have the light on one side of the switch and when you close the door the other side of the switch is used then to operate the dryer there will be 3 connections and 1 is common to the other 2

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

  • danny Hendrickson Aug 08, 2010

    there are 3 connections as previously stated in earlier there is no way to get them mixed up as,the 2 are 3/16' "spade clips" on this switch and the other is 1/4" inch and on these 2 connections it does not matter if the smaller 3/16" ones are reversed

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  • Dryers Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Http://www.retrevo.com/support/LG-DLE7177-Dryers-manual/id/14149ag500/t/2/
Hi, please find above your user manual, below is your service and repair manual, please download these and follow the troubleshooting steps needed to isolate your issue.
http://foggyfacts.blogspot.com/2010/03/lg-dryer-dle7177-service-manual.html
Below is a DIY self help "How To" troubleshoot and repair website, between the manual and this site you should be able to track down you issue and hopefully resolve.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryergoe.php

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

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  • Dryers Master
  • 8,220 Answers
  • 7 more comments 
  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 08, 2010

    The lg dryer is basically like a maytag dryer. You remove the top then the front. Then look for the safety klixons mounted on the heater element.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 08, 2010

    I gave you the manual. Can you make the link work?

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 08, 2010

    once you get top and front off you then remove the shroud and drum. It is not too difficult. You need to break it down and remove the lint.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 08, 2010

    The light inside works so the door switch is ok. You might have a broken belt. That would kill power to the motor.


  • bestcell Aug 11, 2010

    I am showing 30 or less volts leading to the control board. I traced two out of the 4 wires leading to the heating box. Per diagram, a safety thermostat appears to be in the heater box. How would i be able to test that ?

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 12, 2010

    Remove the wires from the safety. Check for continuity.
    If no continuity (open circuit) you have a bad un. Replace and all will be well.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 12, 2010

    I am glad to see you are hanging in there. I will help all I can. Just ask Kimosabe.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 19, 2010

    The blower housing safety is an auto reset one. It

    could be open though and that would kill power to the

    motor. The broken belt switch and the door switch

    could also kill the motor. The other safety's are in

    the heater circuit and would not kill power to the

    motor.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Aug 19, 2010

    If all of them safety's check good then you need to replace the control my opinion.


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