The low speed engine coolant fan does not come on when I start the car and turn on the AC. I blew a condenser and have replaced it but the freon pressure get over 300lbs on the hight side. The low speed fan is intermittant so I was able to recharge the AC systyem after replacing the condenser during a time when they were running. I have cheched the relays, they are good. the fuses are good, I applied 12VDC to the fans at the rely plug and both fans are good. I also turned off the AC and ran the engine until the temp reach 221 degree f. the low speed fan came on but shut off as soon as I turned on the AC. There are no OBD codes.

if the scan tool ECT sensors show 180f to 200f it is not overheating
what are you talking about.
blower dash fan.
engine RAD fans < guess only this.
or front AC condenser fans.
overheats parked
overheats driving yes or now fast?
oveheats only AC on, none of this told an matters HUGE.
learn to use a scan tool?
you can not fix any modern car lacking one. $100 buy one.
here are the proofs of over heating. al or most.!!!
dash gauge pegs, see that can be coolant low, easy no>?
scan ECT shows temps way over 200F, 265 is boiling point.
coolant on the ground AF 50% green,yellow orange pink what eva.
coolant on the passengers toes(foot well heater core leaks)
coolant in oil pan , and dip stick end drips, chocolate milk.
engine pings, or under load (hills) dont let it. pings is too hot. or dead EGR.
huge engine power loss from ping. (and lots more)
engine guts make huge nasty metallic sounds. bad that. check oil levels.
dash gauge engine heat PEGs , can mean overheating.
dash gauge tad high is normal. z(operators guide said so)

the service manual tells you clear as day what temps trip the fans on if you just RTM/ 214 to 220f , if ECT show that the fans run in that range and lacking a scan tool you will NEVER KNOW IT.
'the dash gauges is NOT and instrument it is a just a crude, toy gauge, the ECT is what matters period. or IR thermal gun pointed to thermostat housing then to top and bottom RAD tanks,


this magic tool and skills I can find dead RAD tubes in 1min flat
love mine, Have 2.

shows 170 here, or 180f if drive 5 miles. your car is 200f stat
a parting shot
no 19 year old thermostat run that long.
the top usa maker claims a 7 year design life
I bet yours is bad. as the wax pellet ages in it ,it shrinks and the TEMPS go way way too high, or are sluggish.
seen it vast times and is frankly normal service.

NO SUCH car here USA, but... here goes (generic)
you did all; that wrong , totally (beside parts swapped)
AC radiator means what?, evap core or condenser core
front of car or in heater box evap)
My guess NEW CONDENSER put in UP FRONT>
that act breaks the LOOP, and this done, dictates the next steps.
cab blower dead on low speeds is blower resistor block burn out.
not pulling a hard vacuum (pump) before adding Freon is totally wrong, all humid air must be pumped out or it WILL FAIL.
a 45 minute job with vacuum pump running. (a tool in all AC shops)

and with a new receiver dryer put in after opening the loop.
the Compressor will not run if the Hi/low Freon switch is not closed.
that DC fan can be tested with hotwired 12vdc power to it.
the fan motor is only a DC brush fan motor. (DC for sure).
do that yet?. unplug the fan, and hot wire the fans up front.
or learn to use a voltmeter, 12vdc across a dead fan is a dead fan.
learn to use the (DMM) meter or spend life guessing wrong, endless.

At 30 miles per hr you get enough air flow through the condenser coil to keep the A/C cooling. Check the cooling fan at the radiator. It should run when the A/C is on no matter what the engine temperature is. When the freon is low enough to affect cooling it will do the same in traffic or on the road. Engine coolant level has no affect on the A/C,.The condenser is forward of the radiator. You didn't say the car was running hot.

Normal, the ac heat exchanger condenser need air moving across the fins to remove the heat. While moving in town the condenser isn't remove the meat that is building up the it's aluminum fins. Even though the vehicle uses an electric fan. The fan is used to cool the engine temperature. If you Toyota is equip-ed with automatic transmission. The electric fan will need to pull enough air to cool the engine temperature, automatic transmission fluid, air conditioner condenser, and maybe power steering condenser to cool the power steering fluid. Later model of vehicles/trucks are using different refrigerants instead R134A in which you Toyota uses.

The simples way to explain is the ac remove heat from inside your Toyota and this heat is removed by the refrigerants inside your ac in the car. To cool the refrigerant this coolant is removed to the heat exchanger condenser located in front of the engine radiator. So, while moving at 60mph there is enough air flow through the radiator, ac head condenser, and other aluminum heat exchangers. GB...stewbison

Hello,
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Let me explain in layman's terms how the air conditioning (AC) system works and what could be happening to your car.

Like your body, the air conditioning compressor is the heart of the AC system, and Freon is the blood. The compressor pumps Freon throughout the AC system, either the older type R12 which costs as much as gold it seems these days, or the new environmentally-friendly R134A Freon. This Freon is a gas and liquid combination that is compressed and circulated throughout the air conditioning system. The compressed Freon is pushed through the system under pressure and is passed through different sized metal and rubber hoses and a special valve called an expansion valve that cause the gas to expand and contract.

This expansion and contraction makes the Freon gas very cold. This cold gas makes its way via metal lines into the dash area of your vehicle to the evaporator core. This evaporator core is like a small radiator, except it has cold Freon circulating inside and not hot antifreeze. A small fan (the AC blower fan which you control from the control panel on the dash) sits in front of the evaporator core and blows air across this cold evaporator and then through the vents inside your vehicle.

The other objective of the air conditioning system is to remove the heat from inside the cab of the vehicle. This heat is removed by the Freon with the help of the AC condenser located at the front of the car (usually in front of the radiator). The Freon coming back from the evaporator carries the heat from the cab to the condenser via rubber and metal hoses. Just like your radiator, the condenser is lightweight aluminum with many internal winding coils.
The Freon travels through these coils, and in between these coils are small slits or fins that the Freon is forced through. The condenser will have an electric cooling fan mounted in front or behind it to push or pull air through these fins to remove the heat from the Freon. Some vehicles still use the old fashioned fan blade driven by the engine to pull air across the radiator and the condenser.
Now I know that is just a tidbit of information on how the air conditioning system works, and it is very general, but I wanted you to know what to look for to give you insight as to what might be happening with your vehicle.
A few causes of low cooling efficiency or no cooling at all at idle are:

Lack of air flow across the condenser. Make sure the electric cooling fan motor near the condenser is coming on, or in models that are equipped with a fan blade make sure this fan is turning and is turning very fast.

Low Freon levels. Freon level and pressure should be checked by your certified air conditioning mechanic.

Overheating. If the engine is running hot or overheating, it can have a noticeable negative affect on the air conditioning system. Some cars have two electric cooling fans, one for the air conditioning condenser and the other for the radiator. Make sure they are both working properly. Usually at idle on a hot day with the AC on both fans will be on.

When the vehicle is traveling at freeway speeds, the compressor is pumping the Freon throughout the system much faster and harder than at idle. There is a dramatic increase in air flow across the condenser due to 55 mph winds, and the engine is usually operating at a cooler, more efficient temperature as well, thus allowing the air conditioning system to operate efficiently.
Note: An air conditioning system that is somewhat low on Freon can still feel comfortable at freeway speeds due to the added air flow across the condenser which can overcome the ill effects of slightly low Freon. Periodic air conditioning performance checks by your mechanic are the best way to keep the system in great shape.

Hope this helps.

Goodluck

check the ac blower transistor under passenger side of dash behind the blower motor. on my 2003 compressor would not cut on , front blower only operated on high an blew hot air, rear blew on all speed but only hot air. $58.00 at dealer plus tax. 15 minute fix. there is a video on youtube that documents the process. just fixed today

hi
1st u have to replace condenser fan and radiator assy , it will solve your problem , cause due to no coolant radiator fan is not working and cause of engine overheating a/c system got trip . replace both condenser fan and radiator and put new coolant. thanks.

have the coolant fan clutch replace and wash the radiator and condensor out

coolant level has nothing to do with ac operation.freon level needs to be checked. a high pressure or low pressure situation could prevent operation. condensers have been known to leak right behind ac fan

They get more than warm, but not excessively hot that you can't touch it. This can be caused by a faulty condenser fan motor, dirty condenser coil even low freon, which is my guess along with a dirty condenser. Check these two issues and if it's not the problem your compressor may be getting ready to die. because of internal issues with the motor windings. Make sure the fan is running to speed, clean the condenser and see if the larger copper pipe to the compressor is ice cold and sweaty, if not you may need freon