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Have JRS229 model. Both the freezer and fridge are not cold (everything defrosted). I can not locate coils on this fridge to check for dust buildup. Suggestions????

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SOURCE: defrost timer location on Kenmore model 106.56542400

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Posted on Apr 06, 2009

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SOURCE: Sid By Side Freezer Icing and Fridge not Cold

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Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE TFX26KRDA WW 2001 side by side refrig/freezer w warm fridge

Cleaned the condenser coils which were dusty but not severely so. Checked the evaporator coils which were NOT iced. Reset the fridge to coldest setting and freezer to #5 (mid range of temperature) and waited a full 36 hours. Fridge temp is 40 F and freezer is about 0F. Not sure what is different except coldest setting on fridge. Warm weather is here but not warm enough to require AC. Temps in late afternoon in house about 77-80F. Any thoughts are appreciated because I suspect this problem is not completely resolved.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

rockitman187
  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kemore elite fridge wont get cold

It can be the defrost timer,defrost element or defrost thermostat or a blocked vent into the fridge

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: My regrigerator (GE Profile) is

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

heatman101

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

Testimonial: "This advice is very good. Based on this I think I know what my problem is. I will try these suggestions. "

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Ice builds up on bottom floor of the freezer i defrost it and there is a buildup of ice that i can see in the slits in the back. i have left it for 24 hours to mahe sure it is thawed but when it is turned...


First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful


OR

Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking same part needs replaced.The water valve at the bottom rear of fridge
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Jul 30, 2011 | Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Our fridge keeps freezing everything up even when the setting on 1 why is this happening ?


First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it seems
to be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful

Jul 30, 2011 | LG LFC23760SW Side by Side Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

I have TXF26CDRA side by side which I have to manually defrost periodically. Lately I've have to defrost it every two weeks or everything melts in the freezer and goes bad in the fresh food section....


First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful

Jul 29, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The cooling coil in the back interior of the fridge forms frost and then melts to form a lake in the bottom of the fridge, and then it freezes. The produce drawers freeze shut from the buildup every weeks...


Hi,
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Jul 29, 2011 | Samsung RF26VAB (25.5 cu. ft.)...

1 Answer

Hello...have a B&D NuCool 1.7 fridge. Had it for a few months, and clean the back vents of dust regularly. Recently, a clicking sound is coming from upper-level fan area.


You may have ice buildup and the fan is hitting the ice.
If it is a manual defrost system you may need to defrost it. If it's an auto defrost

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Jun 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer working, Refridgerator lost coldness. Found frost buildup in freezer, which is on top.


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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Dec 29, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

My fridge has ice build-up in the freezer behind the inside wall. this ice is on the freezer elements, because of the buildup, the fridge is not cooling.


This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater / circuitry not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured (usually with a clip) to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located near the evaporator coil. If the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not directed into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is located.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, or place a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.

I hope this helps!

Oct 26, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Cold air not been circulated around the fridge part of my american fridge freezer.and is freezing up at the bottom


This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of some fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located above the evaporator coil. if the fan doesn't move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not blown into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is detecting a high temperature.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics, electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, and a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc.


Oct 26, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Fridge not cooling, freezer


No cooling at all: . Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Cool but not cool enough:

Sep 27, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

Freezer is working good fridge is not very cold .make whirlpool


How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


OR
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..


Aug 16, 2009 | Refrigerators

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