Question about GE Ovens

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GE Profile double ovens. New control panel but the top oven does not heat on BAKE or BROIL. It does heat on CONVECTION. The bottom oven operates fine.

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  • wintergreen7 Aug 07, 2010

    Unit will try to come on in BAKE/BROIL, then the digital dial will darken and start to 'buzzzzz'.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 07, 2010

    It will try to come on in BAKE/BROIL position but window will 'dim' and start to buzzzzzzzz.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    GE Profile double ovens. Have replaced the control panel. Unit will NOT work on BAKE/BROIL selection. Will attempt to come on . . . then digital panel dims and I hear a buzzzzing sound and it does nothing. Unit WILL work in convection mode, clock works and the BOTTOM oven DOES work.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    GE Profile double ovens. Have replaced the control panel. The unit WILL operate on CONVECTION but when using the BAKE/BROIL, the unit will attempt to come on, then digital will DIM and buzzzzzz. The bottom oven operates fine.
    Previous advice suggests a 'probe' but does not elaborate enough to a 'novice' on where/what is the probe and specifically how to test. (have a detachable probe which will not work either IN or OUT of port)

  • wintergreen7 Aug 11, 2010

    GE Profile double ovens. Have replaced the control panel, but problem continues--Bottom oven works--Top oven works on CONVECTION only. On BAKE/BROIL when depressed, unit comes on-- then the digital DIMS and unit starts to buzzzzzzz. Sounds as if it is coming from the oven control behind the clock. Will not heat.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 11, 2010

    GE Profile double ovens. Have replaced the touch control panel but problems still continue. BOTTOM oven works fine. The TOP oven works fine on CONVECTION. On regular BAKE the clock control/oven control gives a buzzzzing sound and then sometimes will heat, but not always. On BROIL the unit will, at times, work; has buzzzzed on occasion. Both elements T/B will work/heat. It's the buzz and then dimming of digital and then no Heat that is puzzling.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 12, 2010

    Believe I have whipped the 'horse' enough. Will try some replacement of recommended parts.

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6 Answers

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  • Master
  • 503 Answers

Hi,

If you are having problems with your electric oven heating up too slowly, not being able to maintain temperature set point, or wild variations in temperature, then you probably have a bad baking element in your oven.

The bake element is the bottom element in your oven. The life span of these elements can vary depending on the usage of your oven and the quality of the element. Anything electric has an unpredictable lifespan. Elements made on the same assembly line can vary greatly in how long they last. But when the element burns out it will need to be replaced to have your oven work properly.

The thing the fools many people is that many ovens will use the broil element to preheat the oven and then switch to using the baking element only. When this happens the oven will no longer heat and will cool down. The unit may sense this and activate the broil element again which will cause wild swings in temperature and also can cause food to burn on the top self or not bake properly.

If you can see the elements, watch them and see if they both get red hot when initially warming the oven. If only the top, broil element gets hot then you have a burned out element or a bad contacts where the element plugs into. Usually lifting the element and pulling out on it will release the element. If the contacts are discolored or pitted then they could be causing your problems. By using an ohm meter you can check the resistance of the element. If you get no continuity through the element it is no good. Bad elements will often have blisters, bubbles, or even burn in two.

If the element contacts are bad, make sure the you replace both the element and the receptacle that the element plugs into. Replacing only the element will only temporarily solve your problem.


Please post your feedback and Vote if the problem resolved as per your satisfaction.

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • wintergreen7 Aug 12, 2010

    No one seems to address the fact that the same elements seem to work on CONVECTION. The buzzzing behind the clock (oven control) occurs on the BAKE cycle and seems hesitant to heat on BROIL.

  • Monika Arora
    Monika Arora Aug 12, 2010

    Hi,



    The cause of the problem can be a bad heating element, broken wires or a bad oven control board.

    Remove the bake element and check it for continuity and/or broken wires.

    If it's good, check for 240 VAC to the Bake element.

  • wintergreen7 Aug 12, 2010

    Believe I will start with the BAKE element and if that proves fatal, replace the oven control.
    Thanks for the help.

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  • GE Master
  • 12,061 Answers

You need to check the actual elements themselves to see they are NOT open or high resistance, this would explain why they don't heat up.
Also often there are internal Fuses, if so check these out on each element, perhaps they have "Blown"?
You need to set the control to say High, and check with a meter if any voltage is getting to the element, if it is the element is faulty, if NOT then unfortunately your new controller is :(
You really need a service manual, to attempt these things though.

This website below will help you to do what you need to do.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/range/erange.php

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

  • wintergreen7 Aug 11, 2010

    It elements are faulty, why would it heat on CONVECTION, but NOT on regular heat???????

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  • Master
  • 2,272 Answers

There are two heating elements.One in top and other in bottom.If the unit is not heating then its faulty heating element.But if only the top unit is not heating then the heating element in the upper/top section needs to be checked and replaced.Also other possibility is,that you have replaced the control panel in your oven.If any of the wires connecting top unit is not got connected properly then the top unit will not heat or not function properly.So recheck the connections once again before replacing the top heating element.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
 

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    Unit did the same thing before replacing the control panel. The upper oven WILL work on CONVECTION. If the element is BAD, the unit would NOT heat in any mode, would it not???

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  • GE Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

If the oven does not heat at all, then replace the temperature probe that is likely causing the problem.

The probe can be tested reading Ohms at room temperature, or jumping it. If the probe is open at room, then it must be surely replaced.

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

  • 7 more comments 
  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    there is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    there is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    there is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    There is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    (There is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?)

  • wintergreen7 Aug 10, 2010

    (There is an attachable 'probe'. Unit does NOT work with it IN or OUT. Is there another probe that you are referring to??? If so, how do I identify it and then Test?)

  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 10, 2010

    The temperature probe is located inside the cavity on one side.

    The probe is tested disconnecting or cutting its wires and reading Ohms with a multimeter. If it is gone it will read open (infinity with analog multimeter).

    By giving full model number I could have provided schematics and more detail, unforunately on your request the problem will be passed to other expert.

    Goodbye and good luck.

    Ginko.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 11, 2010

    Re:GE Profile double ovens. Have replaced the touch control panel but
    problems still continue. BOTTOM oven works fine. The TOP oven works
    fine on CONVECTION. On regular BAKE the clock control/oven control
    gives a buzzzzing sound and then sometimes will heat, but not always.
    On BROIL the unit will, at times, work; has buzzzzed on occasion. Both
    elements T/B will work/heat. It's the buzz and then dimming of digital
    and then no Heat that is puzzling.

    Replace the temperature probe. This is the temperature sensor located inside the cavity. It is called temperature probe, temperature sensor or thermostat.
    When it is broken both elements in one oven do not work. This won't affect the other unit in double oven.

    Same explained here:

    If both broiling and baking element are not heating, then the most
    common fault causing the...


    Parts and diagrams for most appliances here: below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance..

    My fingers are aching, I am typing same thing times and times again. I get back same copy and paste.

    Take care.

    G.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 11, 2010

    To complete, buzz and then dimming of digitalcan be caused by a broken contact or by an abnormal power draw. If there is a contact to ground or a plugged element for example then the main board may buzz.

    Buzzing can also be caused by a fan or other jammed motor.

    I am tired of typing here, my solution had been refused already, you refused to test temperature probe (grab multimeter and read Ohms), and we still do not have the model number. I hope you can fix this , but I have the impression that you are making a simple problem incredibly complex. Jump or test that temp probe, then check elements for continuity, check if there is a termal fuse or a power board. If you do not know what I am talking about, call the technician, the EOC (control board) had alredy been quite expensive for sure.

    All the best.


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  • Contributor
  • 857 Answers

--Make sure that oven controls are set correctly for either bake or broil.
Check oven door on self-clean ranges to make sure it is in the unlocked position.
--Check the oven knobs to make sure they are in the correct position. If the range has knobs for oven temperature and oven function and if the control knobs were removed for cleaning, make sure they were reinstalled in the proper location.
the
--baking element may be fauly.
--check the burner to see if it is loose. If not, unplug it and then fully seat it. Check that you have selected the correct burner. Check that your pan has a flat bottom. If not, the electric sensor will not detect it. If the burners are not working but the clock is, the range may not be properly wired. Contact the installer. If just one burner does not work, try plugging it into a different receptacle. If it still will not work, the heating element must be replaced. If no burners work but the oven works, call for service.
--If the burners will not heat or will only partially heat on your gas GE Profile range, check to see if the burner is loose. Check that the burner cap is properly seated, does not wobble or rock and is not tilted. Check that the cap and burner match. Check that the range has power. Turn the oven on. If the oven works but the burners do not, call for service. Check that you have the burner knob on the "lite" position.

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

  • wintergreen7 Aug 09, 2010

    This is a double oven. Controls are all on 'touch panel'. Unit is 12 years old and I have replaced the control panel 3 times. This is a totally different problem than before. I am afraid that the problem is in the 'oven control' which is all resistors on a printed circuit board.

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  • Master
  • 2,030 Answers

Check the high level cutout that is on the non operational oven

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

  • wintergreen7 Aug 07, 2010

    How do I determine what/where is the high level cutout?

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