KitchenAid KERA807PSS01 oven won't shut off until breaker thrown
The oven continues to work perfectly except for one thing. The oven will not turn off until we throw the breaker. The oven will work perfectly again but not shut off, etc., etc. Bad CRC? How difficult to replace?
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Re: KitchenAid KERA807PSS01 oven won't shut off until...
Assuming its a stainless stell oven? if so heres the par tyou need its a membrane switch( your cancel button ceased to operate corrrect???not a bad part to install you need to remove a few screws from under control panel itself( perhaps a few on the sides, the front control will lift off and this part is installed from behind the control panel (SHUT THE BREAKER(S))
part number 9756595ES
in the mean time instead of shuttin off the breaker toreset you can simply( requires reading manual ) set your oven to time bake. it will shut off automatically after predetermined time has been obtained.
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I understand your Frigidaire oven will not turn off. I also see that when you turn it off, the blower and heating element, stay on. The blower will stay on to help cool down the oven, but the heating element should turn off. I see that you have to turn your oven off at the circuit breaker. I suggest contacting your local authorized dealer for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your appliance and determine why your oven will not turn off. Hope this is helpful.
Your wall oven has two main components that control the oven. The main control computer and the user interface. Your problem is probably in the user interface, although it could be the main control or both. I have had some success cleaning the ribbon that connects the user interface to the control with a little rubbing alcohol. That only works some of the time though. Due to the fact that the oven works except for the cancel button I would lean towards replacing the user interface if cleaning the ribbon dose not work.
Check your breaker box to make sure the breakers are ON.. these typically are double throw breakers.. it is possible one of them has been thrown open.. so flip that double throw off and back on.. then check..I have seen one side of these breakers fail.. unusual.. but it happens.. then a replacement is in order.. regardless. visually it may appear the breaker is closed..but upon closer inspection.. one side may be "spongy/open". There are always exceptions..so examine the breaker box carefully.
If one breaker is open..it would be wise to keep an eye on things to determine how it got that way in the first place. If the breaker will not close or throws/pops again..you either have a bad breaker or a wiring problem..in some cases the element may have grounded out..or burned a wire.. etc.
Next thing to check for is a bad element.. Remember..this is a 220volt hot circuit with a high amperage breaker.. BE CAREFUL.. USE CAUTION.. Failure to do so could result in serious injure or DEATH.
Turn off power at the breaker box to the oven.. test the working over to make sure the power is OFF.
Remove the oven racks
Remove the screws at the base of the element
Pull the element toward you
Note how the wire(s) are connected
Disconnect the wires.. checking for broken or lose terminals..if lose or broken..repair.
You will need a volt ohm meter for the following..
Test the Element for continuity. Place each probe on the terminal ends (manual will have ratings) generally if you have continuity it probably works..
Test for a grounded/short.. one probe to element the other to terminal end..if you have continuity.. it's shorted out. Test both terminals
Replace with a new one if needed.. reverse procedure. Turn on the power .. and test for proper operation.
Again.. 220 VOLTS..HIGH AMPERAGE.. USE CAUTION..not doing so could result in injury or DEATH
After you have done the above..and get an all pass..then it's on to controllers and temp sensors.
The first thing I would check is the breaker for the oven at the breaker box. I have encountered similar problems and a partially thrown breaker ( or one pole of a double-pole breaker) can cause this. Find your "range breaker" in your breaker box and cut it off then flip it back on. There is a good chance that might fix your breaker. If it is an older house with fuses, then the range would be on two fuses and one of them is blown. This happens to dryers also (if the right fuse/breaker goes, the motor runs but it won't heat)
Hope this helps
Turn the oven breaker off, then let the oven cool completely. Turn breaker on, there will be an error code appear, push and hold the "bake" button for at least one minute until an error message appears, then press the off button.
This reset the latch on our oven
Last night I saw the lights in the house flicker momentarily... This morning, I turned the oven on, set it to Bake and within a few seconds, the control panel reported error code “F6 E0” then shut the oven off. The control panel also reported "Lost communication...". I read on another site that this code may require replacing the control panel itself. Apparently, the momentary power fluctuation wasn't large enough to damage the electronics (since the control panel still works), but was significant enough to confuse the electronics controlling the oven. To fix the oven, I simply turned the 30 AMP breaker for the oven off for about 5 minutes. When I turned it back on, the oven worked just fine. Solution #1 recommends taking off the control panel, which voids the warranty. It's more likely that it was fixed just by cycling power to the oven via the breaker.
The F-3 error code typically means you have sensor problem. The sensor is usually mounted in the oven space up near the top of the unit.
The first thing to do is turn off the circuit breaker to the oven. Do you have an ohm meter?
I suggest if you don't to purchase one. They are relatively inexpensive. Maybe you can borrow one from a friend. Disconnect the sensor from the electronic control and measure the resistance. There should be a wiring diagram in the top of the unit that will help you to locate the sensor wires. Most sensors should read around 1100 ohms at room temperature. If sensor reads as an open circuit or has a very high resistance, it must be replaced. If instead it reads very low, then there is a short in the wiring. Some units have a fuse in series with the sensor. Check to see that the fuse has not blown.