Question about Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Gas Range - Black-on-Black

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Our Whirlpool SF393PEP gas range/oven does the following: After baking we turn off the oven temperature and selector knobs. The oven remains hot. There is no gas but the heat appears to come from the electrical heating element on the upper surface inside the oven. Thank you

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  • qraznprazn Aug 11, 2010

    Hello. Our Whirlpool SF393PEP gas range/oven does the following: After baking we turn off the oven temperature and selector knobs. The oven remains hot. There is no gas but the heat appears to come from the metal heating element on the upper surface inside the oven. The element was still emanating heat more than an hour after we had turned off the oven, both temp and selector dials. No operating lights were on, the gas was not flowing but the element was definitely heating. Thank you!

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How long unitl the light on top of the oven goes off? if when you turn the gas off the upper element remains on then you would have a control issue but by me saying it would be on it would stay glowing red or orange there are also some whirlpool models that do take awhile for that light to go off i happen to have one that takes about 2 hrs for the light to go off which indicates there is no heat left in the oven the light will remain on until there is no more heat hope this helps please write back if this does not answer your question to your fullest satisfaction

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

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This is normal. That heating element is a metal-made one so it retains heat. That's why you have to wait for it to cool down: because this is the normal behavior of the metal it's made from. Don't worry, it doesn't consume more power than it is supposed to or something like that.

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

  • qraznprazn Aug 10, 2010

    Thanks valeantudor. The behavior was different than normal. We have used this range/oven regularly over the past 23 years and had never observed this behavior before. The oven (metal heating element) was still emanating heat more than an hour after we had turned off the oven, both temp and selector dials. No operating lights were on, the gas was not flowing but the element was definitely heating. It was not until several hours later, turning the dials on and off

  • qraznprazn Aug 10, 2010

    Don't know if the rest of my comment was cut off:
    ...and trying a clean cycle that the heating stopped. More than energy savings I'm concerned about safety and a potential fire hazard. Short of buying another range/oven I'll have to unplug it from the AC. Will this cause any unexpected results? Can the switch controlling the heating element be replaced? Thanks again.
    qraznprazn

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Hello there
Please read the entire solution i have provided below ok
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If your oven's bake or the broiler heating elements won't heat but the range burners still work;the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. So,make sure to check the clock buttons and the knobs are set properly.
*If your clock has a knob that says "push for manual" then push the knob in after that, try the baking and broiling elements again.

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It won't bake or broilIf neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

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  • When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.


  • You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

    If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.


  • If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

    Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

    Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

    If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

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hello, i can help you. first of all, if the broiler works then you must have gas coming into the stove. as far as getting to the gas line, it is in the rear of the stove. typically you have to pull out the stove to get to it. that said, here are some things to consider.

Not all gas ranges/ovens require electricity. If yours has a clock, electronic igniters, self-cleaning, or any other electrical features, the unit needs electricity to work properly. Check to see whether there's power getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

It won't bake If your oven won't bake, check these:

Bake igniter
Other causes
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.

It bakes poorly Here are two instances of when food "bakes poorly:"

  • When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more precisely locate the defect.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this type of unit, you must replace the sensor.

    On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.


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2 Answers

For caloric gas range, the bake function did not kick in after setting the temperature dail. Display window shows on but no gas burning. Temperature stays at 100 degrees.


Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.

if this helps please vote me a fix ya

Jul 18, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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