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Whirlpool Dryer WGD5300SQ0 Dryer motor starts when turned on, timer does not advance, heat (burner) does not turn on. I know the thermal fuse (on the blower unit?) can be checked with a meter, How can I trouble shoot the timer?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer Thermal Fuse

air flow could be the issue or if your heater itself is grounded against the cabinet i think your unit is getting to hot check all your vent lines if you have good air flow check the heater try taking the vent totally off for a few cycles and see if the fuse blows agian

Posted on Mar 24, 2008

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micromaster
  • 3614 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool WGD5300SQ0 Will initially

heres it looks like...

0bc58f2.jpg

Posted on May 17, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool LER5644A No heat and motor wont Turn

Replace the dryer wires.
Put your meter leads into the 4&5 slots.
Make sure the door switch is closed or jumpered.
Push the start button.
If you read no voltage the issue is with the wiring, the timer, or a relay.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: location of thermal fuse on leq9858 l dryer whirlpool

if this is a top load?if so remove the back panel and you will see the dryer heater box to your right,the fuse is on the left side of box top,the high temp thermostat is on the bootm left and should be replaced also,before you do thatmif you have a meter remove the 2 wires from the heating element and check it on omns,no meter?remove the 2 screws pull the element off and look to see if the coil is broke anywhere,let me know how you do-mkie

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: dryer will not heat, checked and changed thermal fuse and no heat

The igniter is located on the burner assemly inside the dryer cabinet under the dryer drum. You can view it by removing the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife along the seam where the dryer front meets the toe panel. About two inches in from each side is a retaining clip that you must push down with the the putty knife, while pulling out on the toe panel. Repeat this on the opposite side and the pane will come free.

The way the ignition system on your dryer is supposed to work is like this:

1. Press the start button.
2. The igniter on the burner assembly begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches the required current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.

NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you press start to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

This is a built in safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from entering the dryer cabinet without ignition. Such a situation could lead to an explosion.

There are two basic types of igniters:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton2.gif (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps2.gif for the gas safety valve to work.

I believe your dryer takes the Norton type igniter. The part number is 279311 and can be purchased at pcappliancerepair.com for about $22. NOTE: Just because your current igniter may still glow, does not mean it is good. Igniters will wear out with age and the current potential will decrease to the point where it no longer will open the gas safety valve.

Now...another cause of poor heating quality and longer dry times is poorly istalled, kinked, or clogged dryer exhaust ventilation ducting. If you have not checked the dryer ducting from where it exits the dryer to the point where it leaves your home, now may be a good time to do so. A dryer needs proper ventilation in order to dry efficiently.

You can easily replace the igniter by performing the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen from inside the dryer door.
2. Insert a putty knife along the front seaam where the top panel of the dryer meets the dryer front. Locate the retaining clips and push down while lifting on the top panel. The dryer top will lift up.
3. Unplug the door switch connector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing and disconnect the door hinge springs.
4. Locate and remove the dryer chute that covers the blower fan assembly and disconnect the auto dry sensor plug.
5. Hold the door closed and locate the four screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side at the top and at the bottom.
6. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the four screws. Once removed, hold the top of the drum as you pull the front panel away and remove.
You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. You do not have to remove the drum, but if you have to for better access, release the belt tension on the drum. While the tension is released, remove the belt from the drive motor pulley. Leave the belt wrapped around the drum and lift the entire drum with it to remove from the cabinet. You now have full access to the burner assembly to replace the igniter. All you should have to do is disconnect the connector plug and a couple of mounting screws.

Once you have the igniter installed, you need to re-install the drum and belt by following these steps:

1. With the belt still looped around the dryer drum (grooved side facing the drum - try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the belt) lift the drum with the belt and insert the back rim of the drum onto the support rollers in the rear of the dryer first.

2. With the drum resting on the rollers, slowly turn the drum clockwise until the rollers seat into the rear drum groove. You should feel the drum drop into place once it seats correctly.

3. Hold the drum in place (you can do this by resting it against your shoulder so you have both hands free). Loop the belt over the drive motor shaft first.

4. Then, with the tensioner in your right hand, pull the wheel to the right and place the belt on the idler wheel with your left hand.

5. Release the tensioner and the idler wheel will tighten up the drive belt against the drum.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram K.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by lifting the front of the drum slightly and placing the drum support wheels under the drum. Lift the entire front panel with drum in place and insert the front panel in the side panels. Hold the door shut so it doesn't fly open and line up the screw holes on the bottom edge of the front panel and then align the top. Reinstall the door springs, the auto dry sensor plug, the dryer chute that covers the blower fan housing, followed by the door switch connector plug and ground wire. Lower the top panel back in place.

I know this is rather lengthy, so take your time and read thoroughly. This is not a difficult repair at all. If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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1 Answer

Whirlpool Dryer LGB6000KQ1 - Dryer Doesn't heat nor does timer advance.


Probably the heating element. They go bad more often than timers.

Jul 25, 2017 | Whirlpool Dryers

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Electric

First , check the circuit breaker to make sure they are on . Be sure to UNPLUG the dryer , while checking with an ohm meter . When checking WITH power , BEST to have another person available in case of emergency . I do know of 1 person killed while working on his dryer .
A dryer operating on 240 volts , sends 120 volts to the timer and 120 volts to the motor . In between these two , are the thermal cut-off , and the element ( this is the basic operation parts ) . The 120 volts from the motor , goes directly to the element if selected for heat . The timer circuit , sends the other 120 volts , thru the operating thermostats , then thermal fuse , then thermal cut-off , then high-limit thermostat , then to the element . Usually , not ALL the time , the thermal fuse ( number 1 ) is the problem . The heating element ( number 2 ) is usually the problem , if the thermal fuse is good .
If the thermostats , element , and thermal fuse check good with an ohm meter , remove 1 wire from the element and check with a meter , which side is NOT getting 120 volts . Trace the wire which will either go to the timer ( occasionally ) or to the motor ( extremely rare ) .

Gas

On a gas dryer , for no heat , or , heats for a short time then runs but no heat afterwords until cooled down , first check that the electronic igniter , glows red . If it does NOT glow red , then check power to the burner ( 2 wires ) . If no power , then the thermal fuse is bad . (On electric dryers , the thermal fuse keeps the dryer from starting . On gas dryers , it keeps the dryer from heating . The thermal fuse , is a 1" long , or oval , white piece , with 2 wires going to it ) . Also if it does not glow red , the igniter itself could be bad . Again , check with an ohm meter . If the igniter glows red and clicks off , but no gas , the sensor could be bad . This sensor , is mounted to the side of the burner box , and when the igniter gets hot enough to ignite the gas , the sensor opens , sending power to the coils , which open dispensing the gas to heat the dryer . To check the sensor , with the drum removed , start the dryer , and after the igniter gets red , pull one of the wires OFF the sensor , and the gas should ignite . Do this very carefully , as electricity WILL be in the wire pulled off . If the dryer heats for a short time then stops heating , the problem will be the burner coils . These coils will get warm from the electricity going thru them , and will " open " ( short ) internally , until they cool down . Then heat again for a short time , then open , until cooled .
Most of the time , either the thermal fuse ( 1 ) or the coils are bad ( 2 ) or the igniter is bad ( 3 ) .

........A thermal fuse is a white 1" long torpedo looking piece , or , a white oval shaped piece , with 2 wires going to it .

NOTE1 : The thermal fuse keeps an electric dryer from starting and keeps a gas dryer from heating .

NOTE2 : If your dryer heats but the clothes do not dry , then a venting problem is obvious , as a dryer either heats or doesn't heat . Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent from the dryer . Dry a load of clothes and if/when they dry in the normal amount of time , this tells you either the vent hose is kinked , maybe pushed back too far , or , the outside vent is blocked , or , the vent in the wall is restricted to the outside .

Electric Dryers

NOTE3 : If your lint screen is on top of the dryer , the element , thermal fuse , and thermostats are behind the rear dryer panel ....If the lint screen is behind the dryer door , then the element , thermal fuse ( located behind the lint screen housing ( 2 screws ) , and thermostats , are located behind the lower front panel .

on Apr 17, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool WED5100VQ1 does not heat


Those fuses and thermostats can be checked for continuity with a multi meter. There are several other things that can cause a dryer not to heat. Heating element, burnt wires, improper voltage, inadequate venting, timer, and motor

Nov 03, 2017 | Whirlpool WED5100VQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool electric dryer LER5620KQ1. won't heat up timer does not advance


Same problem with my Whirlpool Dryer: Model LER4634EZ2 which stopped heating. I checked the coils that was "OK" then I checked the fuse that was "OK" I replaced the Thermal Fuse and High Limit Thermostat then after starting the dryer the heat came on ... problem solved NO.... the dryer just kept running and running until I opened the dryer door. Not going to put 70 or so $$$ into this 10 year old dryer which up until 12/15/2011 worked fine.

Dec 08, 2011 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat element all have continuity, power chord is good, 240v at plugin... stumped. It is a model # LER4634BQ1 Whirlpool SN# ME4471484


dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.







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1 Answer

Motor runs, but timer does not advance, no heat.


if the timer is on auto it won't advance if there is no heat,you'll need a meter to read out parts in dryer,is it gas or electric?try first by checking the thermal fuse on the blower wheel housing,if that's good check the heater if it's electric,if it's gas check the ignitor,sensor gas coilssend model number and if it's gas or electric next time

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2 Answers

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So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!

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1 Answer

Whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating


Thermostat controls heat. There is also a

motor centrifulgal switch, in the element

circuit, that the motor closes to insure

the motor is turning. Try another heat

setting. There is more than one

thermostat. You may have blown the

'thermal fuse' too, which requires

replacement. The elecment has a contact in

the 'timer' circuit too.

It is possible that your element has

failed also.

Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint

filter and the exhaust vent tube and all

the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is

restricted.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool LER5644A No heat and motor wont Turn


Replace the dryer wires.
Put your meter leads into the 4&5 slots.
Make sure the door switch is closed or jumpered.
Push the start button.
If you read no voltage the issue is with the wiring, the timer, or a relay.

Mar 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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