Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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Admiral Dryer will not heat

I assumed the reason was the heating element was no good, however when I went to remove the element I found the wire on the lower left ( I assume this provides power to the element) had been burned and melted off of the connector. I replaced the connector and re-connected the wire to the heating element. This worked for about 1 day. Again no heat. The same problem the wire is melted off the connector. What do you think is the problem??

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Posted on Oct 25, 2011

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Bad connection
this wiil cause this make sure to use a Hi Heat connector abnd the connections are tight

Posted on May 12, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Admiral dryer wont heat, will run. Continuity on all wiring....what next?!


gas dryer check the thermocouple ---electric check the heat element

Jul 31, 2016 | Admiral Dryers

Tip

How to Replace Heating Element from a Maytag Dryer?


The procedure is as follows:--- 1) First of all unplug the dryer from electric outlet for safety reasons.
2) Locate the vent hose on the rear of the dryer and disconnect this hose from dryer unit.
3) The hose is mostly fixed in a metal clamp and the metal clamp is fixed by the screw. Loosen the screw and remove the clamp and remove the hose.
4) The heating element is located in the cabinet.
5) In some models the cabinet is located at the rear of the dryer. And in some model its located in the front of the dryer.
6) Locate the heating element cabinet and remove the screws holding the cabinet.
7) You will see the heating element now. There are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires are connected by removable connector.
8) Remove the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.
9) After the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals. Remove the screws holding the heating element.
10) The heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the heating element out. Please note down the position of old heating element. So while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.
11) Remove the old heating element and insert the new heating element.
12) Connect all the wires as it were connected before.
13) Refit all the parts which you removed while removing the old heating element in reverse method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting.
This will help. Thanks.

on Mar 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Admiral Dryer, runs bu t does not heat


The thermostat, timer or the heating element itself are the places to check. Look at the circuit breaker for the dryer in the power panel. It will be two breakers connected together. If one trips but not both, the heating element will not heat but the dryer will run.

Nov 17, 2014 | Admiral Dryers

2 Answers

Why do i have no heat on my dryer after cord was replaced after it caught on fire?


I would check the heating element for continuity. If you don't have a multimeter, you could buy a cheap one or borrow one maybe? I found a video on youtube in case you need to know how to do it. Good luck

Aug 06, 2014 | Admiral Dryers

1 Answer

MY WHIRLPOOL DRYER WONT DRY NO HOT OR WARM AIR


There are usually two reasons for no heat.
1. The element is burned out.
2. The high limit switch or thermal fuse has opened.
This is assuming it is a electric dryer.
If it is gas it is probably an ignitor failure.
To check the thermal fuse unplug the dryer remove back cover look for a small usually plastic looking piece with two wires attached
remove wires and check for continuity between teminals
if open replace.
if there is continuity chances are the element has failed
these can be more difficult to replace depending on model.
recommend contacting a service proffessional.
there is usually a reason for the thermal fuse to fail ( ie high heat)
check venting for obstructions and lint filter.
hope this helps.

Dec 02, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Electric Heating Element


No continuity would mean the element is OPEN, or showing an infinite resistance reading. If the element were SHORTED, it would read 0 ohms. These elements are supposed to read 9 to 13 ohms if good. Double check and make sure have your meter scale set correctly. You should be taking resistance checks on the lowest scale of Rx1.

If you have confirmed the element is defective, and the model dryer is correct, the element should pull out of the heater box by removing two screws on the left hand side of the box. You will need to remove the thermal cut-out (TCO) and hi-limit thermostat in order to accommodate removal of the element. These are the two components that are mounted on the side of the heater box. You leave the wires connected, and simply remove any mounting screws that hold them in place. This will keep the element from coming out of the heater box.

If these instructions are not clear, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can understand how your dryer is configured.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.

If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

May 10, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

The black wire burnt off on the line going into the heating elem


No, you do not need to remove the drum. But you will need to remove the cover from the blower assembly. Using a volt meter, check the elements continuity to determine if it is bad or good.

Apr 16, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element


Might I suggest this site if you are a do it your self.
http://www.appliancerepair.net/dryer.htm

You have to raise the top take off the front and the tub should come out. Wala the heating element. Hope this helped, if not let us know.

Mar 16, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Elite Model number 110.63022100 which isn't heating. I just cleaned the vent which was a problem. I assume this has caused a problem with the heating element or thermostat. What do I do...


Is the drum spinning, but not heating? Or...is the drum not spinning at all?

First, we'll assume your dryer is spinning, but just not heating. If your dryer vent was clogged as you stated, it is common for the thermal cut-out (TCO) to blow. This is a non-resettable device that acts as a fuse. Once it blows, it has to be replaced. There is also a possibility that the heating element went bad, if the TCO didn't do it's job. To check, you will have to remove the lower panel under the door. There are some screws under the bottom lip of the panel that you will have to remove and then the panel should just drop down and come off. CAUTION: Please UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE servicing anything inside. There are still dangerous voltages present with the dryer turned off.

Now located the heating element. It will be on the right-hand side encased in a heater box. There are two small components mounted to the heater box housing. The one closest to the front of the dryer is the high-limit thermostat. The one farthest to the back is the TCO. The two work in conjunction to help regulate the temperature inside the dryer, as well as, protect the heating element. Locate the two wires coming off the ceramic terminal of the heating element. Unplug these two wires and do a resistance check across the terminal. If the heating element is good, it will read about 9-13 ohms. Now remove the two wires from the TCO and perform a resistance check. The resistance should read 0 ohms (or a short) if good. If the TCO reads infinite (or open) it must be replaced. The same applies the the heating element. If the TCO requires replacement, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, the two components are sold as a set. The reason being that if the heating circuits overheat, there is a strong potential that the thermostat will be damaged as well. Replacing only one of the components can result in having the replace the other a short time later.

Now, if your dryer does not spin at all, you probably have a blown thermal FUSE. There is a difference between the thermal FUSE and the thermal CUT-OUT. The thermal fuse is located on the air blower housing right under the drum, and is a white plastic component. Remove the wires from it and perform a resistance check. It should also read a short if good. If not, it must be replaced.

If you need parts, here are the part numbers:

Thermal Cut-out/Thermostat Kit (part #2821)
Thermal Fuse (part #2923)
Heating Element (part #525502)

You can find all these parts at repairclinic.com, along with the price information & pictorial part index. Just type your model number in the search menu. I hope this helps you. If you need any further assistnace, please post back with comments and let me know.

Feb 06, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Heating element


Disconnect the power.
Slide the Dryer away from the wall.
Pop up the top
You should see the heater in the back.
Remove the wires connections, and move them to the side
Remove the retianing screws
Pull the heater out.
Put the new heater in and reverse the procedure.

Oct 29, 2007 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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