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I ride a 2011 Dolce Sport. The chain will not shift down from the large chainring. What should I do?

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That should go to a bike shop for an adjustment, the front derailleur is one of the most difficult to adjust correctly by anyone other than a professional bicycle mechanic...

Posted on Oct 21, 2013

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1 Answer

My revoshift is functioning properly. Any suggestions for correction?


The reason its rotating out is because there is slack in the cable. To tighten the cable put shifter in lowest gear and chain on smallest chainring, Loosen derailler bolt, with a pliers pull slack out of the cable. Be careful not to pull so hard that you move derailer to next chainring. If you are unsure of this operation, consult your local bike shop.

Nov 02, 2014 | Cycling

1 Answer

Shimano alivio front derailleur doesn't shift from intermidiate chain ring to the smallest chain ring in a inclined riding


There is typically not a single cause or solution to a specific shifting problem. The most common way to resolve your problem is to let off a bit on pedal pressure as you shift. The derailleur has to move the chain sideways off the teeth, and that is more difficult when the chain is under high pressure.

Apr 17, 2017 | Shimano XT M772 Shadow 9-Speed Rear...

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Which shifter should I change while riding?


Well, the basic principle is this: If you want a big change use your left shifter and if you want a small change use the right shifter. The right shifter is more for nuances and the left one will make a big difference in your riding speed and difficulty.

Jan 17, 2013 | Cycling

1 Answer

Chain keeps slipping of the chainring


put chain on and tighten by pulling wheel back then tighten wheel nuts

Aug 01, 2012 | Schwinn Suburban Sport 26 Women's Comfort...

2 Answers

I have a diamondback serene citi; in the highest gear, it's still too easy to pedal. Any way to increase the tension?


The "highest" gear would be the one where the chain is on the smallest cog of the back wheel and on the largest cog by the pedals. I mention this just in case you don't actually have it in the highest gear. But if you do, then no, other than dragging the brakes, you can't increase the pedal effort. (If this is one of the bikes that automatically shifts the gears for you, then yes it would be possible by changing the weight of the flywheel - but I recommend against it.) Many adult riders who haven't been riding much for some time experience this same desire, because they expect the pedal effort to be higher. I would guess that you are expecting to get some exercise. Biking is a good choice, but it takes time to warm up to it. Using a high pedal effort too soon will injure your knees and ankles. Better to take it easy, increase the time and distance and you find that you cadence (the rpm of your pedals) will naturally increase. Check what cadence you tend to find comfortable now. A healthy cadence is about 70 rpm. But you will probably find 40 rpm more comfortable at first. Good luck, stick with it. :) (By the way, most experienced riders find that those bikes the shift automatically actually give to high of a pedal effort - they tend to target a cadence of about 50 rpm.) I hope you found this helpful and encouraging. Al K

May 22, 2011 | Diamondback Serene Citi Classic Women's...

1 Answer

How do i tighten my slack chain on my trek 69er i am not sure how to do this


It's the rear derailleur's job to take up or provide the proper chain tension as you shift to different gear combinations. It has limits.

It may not be malfunctioning.

Using the large front chainring and the largets cog in the back can pull up too much chain; using the smallest chainring in the front and the smallest cogs in the back can let out more chain than it can control.

The 'extreme' opposite combinations are mechanically unsound and unnecessary to use as there are other combinations of rings and cogs that will yield the same mechanical advantages while keeping the chainline straighter, tighter and not stressing the chain sideways.


Google "how to shift gears on a bike" for vids and textsplanations.

If there is a mechanical issue, see this...

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/derailleur-systems



Mar 28, 2011 | Trek 69er Single Speed

1 Answer

Shimano Deore LX Chainring alignment


The large ring should be a no-brainer. There should be a nub on the outside surface that aligns with the crankarm to keep the chain from dropping between the crank and the arm.

The rings also have their tooth counts etched into them. They all line up.

Mar 29, 2010 | Shimano Deore LX Mountain Bike Front...

2 Answers

Deraileur adjustment/tuning


Yeah you will run into that at some bike shops. When they see older components like that, they often refuse to adjust them for fear of breakage and liability. Try a different bike shop if you can, or if you are confident in your mechanical abilities, try it yourself, instructions here:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6086607_adjust-shimano-rear-derailleur.html

Good luck.

Mar 27, 2010 | Shimano Xtr Mountain Bike Dual Control...

1 Answer

Shimano gears


Basically, avoid cross-chaining. That is, the right-most drive chainring with the left-most cogs, or vice-versa. They place excessive sideways torque on the chain (increasing friction and wear) while not prividing any unique gear ratios that a straighter chainline would provide. The rear derailleur may not be able to take up the slack of small-small riding; or your chain length may be sufficiently short that large-large combo will pull the derailleur to far forward, perhaps even damaging it. To illustrate for yourself what crosschaining does, manually shift your bike into the two described extremes then get behind the bike and sight along the top run of the chain. You'll clearly see that it forces two unnecessary sideways bends in the chain. That is really bad for the hardware.

Generally, the large chainring is for high wheel rpm's but low rider torque, so stay toward the same side (medium-smaller cogs) of the cassette in the rear to maintain higher speeds.

Conversely, the granny gear (smallest chainring) is for high torque, low speed conditions and it works best with its same side (medium-larger) cogs on the rear. The middl ring works with all of the cogs in the rear and serves most off-road purposes that don't require extremes of speed or power.

Buy a few bicycle magaizines, visit bicycling.com and read up on shifting and everything else. It's worth it to get it right and ride smarter instead of harder.

Jan 25, 2010 | Cycling

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