Question about LG Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
You have plugged the defrost drain line.This is where the water goes to
in the bottom of your freezer when it goes through the defrost (removal
of ice from the freezer coil) cycle. It sounds like that hole is
plugged and now the water/ice has now frozen in the vent that lets air
circulate down into your refrigerator compartment. What I usually do in
this case is to unplug the refrigerator, empty out the freezer
compartment. Usually I also end up either pulling off the back panel or
the bottom panel (in the freezer compartment) Looking for that defrost
drain hole and thawing it out with a heat gun (be careful of melting
plastic) or actually I use a hair dryer. I can sometimes do this also
by pouring small amounts of HOT tap water onto it and then
sopping/absorbing it away with a sponge or dishcloth. I repeat this
until I get the water to go down the drain tube.
Try it and let me know!
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
more than likely the compressor is not starting, it has a starting device on the left side of the compressor which has a relay/overload called a relay, remove the relay and shake it , if it rattles it has gone bad. the relay/overload combination has gone bad and can be replaced with pro41 relay. if the compressor has a run capacitor just eliminate the capacitor when replacing with new relay. connection of the two wires makes no difference.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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