Question about Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer
If your dryer is STILL heating, but your clothes still won't dry,
you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run
of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point
where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks or clogs. The
following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor
drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer in a clogged state or having improper air flow will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to overheat. Eventually, this can lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards.
If your ELECTRIC dryer is running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat.
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.
Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
Posted on Aug 07, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer wont heat up
Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.
1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
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