Question about Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

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The cooling coils are icing up. Have checked the defrost element with ohm meter it seems to be good. thermostat looks to be intact and sealed. Does this mean that I have a defrost control problem?

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Checking defrost components on Maytag SideXSide refrigerators
To check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrig and inside the refrig section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and foreward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrig's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Useing a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly thru the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrig back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrig and reinstall the refrig control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired togather and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired togather . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

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1 Answer

Evaporator keeps icing up , checked heater ok


it may be low on freon or have a defrost problem. you should check the door seals and gaskets. you

put a sheet of paper between the door and seal all around the door if you can pull it out easily the door

is not sealing properly, look for wor n or torn seals or gaskets, make sure the seal is clean and does

not have any icing, food,liquid on it. remove the evaporator coil cover, if the coils are frosted to the

point that the fan cannot pull air thru it, then it is a defrost problem. try to get it to defrost if the heater

heats up the defrost control needs replacing. if it does not heat up it's either the defrost element

or thermostat. undo the element and check it with an ohm meter should read about 30 ohms. remove

one wire from thermostat and check with an ohm meter , should be o ohms when frozen. it opens

just above freezing. good luck!



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1 Answer

Ice is building up on the coils at the backside panel where by cooling is reduced. Feel like unit is not defrosting automatically. Called a local technician who changed the timer and melted all the ice by...


Good day,
The defrost system is made up of 3 parts, including the timer.
In addition there is the defrost thermostat, and the main heater.
The item most often to fail is the defrost thermostat.
It is located on the top of the cooling coil your tech defrosted.
It looks something like this.f3dea89.jpg

In addition the main could fail could fail, and is located on the bottom of the same coil. It can be tested with an ohm meter, nd should give a reading of no higher than 35 ohms.
The thermostat can be tested as well, and should read zero ohms. However, it can only be tested if its temperature is not allowed to rise above 20 degrees.

As well, Whirlpool timers have 2 separate ways of being wired into the plug. Same timer, just a case of getting the flying lead onto the right terminal. VERY IMPORTANT.

Here's a nice tutorial on defrost systems. Well worth looking over.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

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You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

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you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
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You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model of fridge)

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Water solenoid to ice maker not working. Check with ohm meter..should NOT read open
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