Question about Televison & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
from what i know thru extensive research.....and i mean alot the dm board (as in the whole thing) is not all bad its thecapacitors on the dm board that are supposably cheap O'z if you know what i mean. there should be 4 of them. you can buy the replacemnets from radio shack for about 8.50. if you know someone who is handy with a soildering iron, or a freelace electically type then ask them if they can put the new ones on for you. the correct one you need are -40 degrees to +85 degrees Celceus...tolerance +20%, now this is important 1000microfarad.... now these capacitors cant be less than 16V they can be over but not under.... typical brand to get is xicon....you have to remove the dm board which is in a metal shield once the back part of the television is removed you will see it cause it looks like it should be in a computer. but apparently this is typical and its a very simple fix but everyone that is capable to fix it want to bend you over and do you dry....mitsubishi should be ashamed of themselves for not correcting this themselve and offering help with cost.. hope this helps guys!
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Thanks for using FixYa. The green LED on the front panel of the TV that normally blinks when turned on after a power failure or when unplugged: the green light is supposed to flash for about 1 minute while both microprocessors boot up: If it won't stop blinking it means that they aren't communicating with each other.
This issue is due to 1000uF/16 volt power supply capacitors in the "DM module" (one of the two onboard microprocessors). These capacitors are apparently small as compared to load they get & due to this they will eventually fail (usually after about 3 years). Or else they fail when there are voltage fluctuations in the circuit above 16 volts. It is recommended to install either 1000uF/25 volt or 1000uF/35 volt capacitors as replacements, so that they will be more than ample to handle any voltage spikes that will occur. You’ll need to take the back off the TV apart in order to remove the faulty DM module. You’ll need to desolder the old capacitors on DM board and install. Also check the grounding straps which are essential to the proper functioning of the DM module.
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set too fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thought that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elect) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- you’re done! Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the TV, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking LED) this means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
you have one of two problems :
1.) The DM is defective and needs to be sent out for rebuild---there are several places including a company called PTS Electronics who do this.
2.) Something that is often overlooked and is simple to try is:
Remove front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it; Locate the two sets of wires coming from the front keyboard controls and follow them to the right and UNPLUG BOTH PLUGS.
This takes the keyboard and "reset" button out of the circuit; sometimes it is not the DM but a defective reset button.
The set can still be turned on with the remote; if it now works you have two choices: use the remote and leave the keyboard disconnected OR remove the entire screen with the keyboard and replace the reset micro switch--you can also just unsolder and remove it.
I have seen people ASSUME the DM is the problem and it may but this is a easy thing to try.
If you found my solution helpful please rate this solution with a "very helpful" rating as I do this here for free.
If you have any questions feel free to respond to this posting with a COMMENT.
REGARDS, SD TECH
Posted on Aug 10, 2010
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