RE: Water Leaks from Detergent Compartment

HE Top Load Washers
Models:
F1 Error Code
WTW6200S WTW6300S WTW6400S WTW6600S WTW6700T
MTW6300T MTW6400T MTW6500T MTW6600T MTW6700T
Serial Numbers: CT01 - CU52
There are four areas of concern that can cause the F1 Error Code. Each area must be sequentially addressed to ensure
that the diagnosis is correct and the proper repair is completed.
A) Air leaks in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose.
a. Inspect the hose for cracks, pin-holes or loose connection.
b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if it is compromised.
B) Moisture in the air pressure (switch/sensor) hose.
a. Inspect the hose for evidence of water.
b. Replace the hose and harness assembly (W10058730) if water is detected.
C) Lint or flashing in the air dome hose connection port.
a. Inspect the air dome hose connection port for lint or flashing.
b. Use a small round device (small screwdriver) to ensure that there is nothing blocking the air dome outlet on
the tub.
D) The control needs to be replaced.
a. Replace the control only after you have completed steps A - C above, and verified that there are no issues
with the air pressure system.


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Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.

Your repair Manual with photos and tech data HERE
I will leave that on there for a while but it takes up broadband so print that manual out and keep it close to that washer.


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Top 10 frontload washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a sig nal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergen, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the termister/heater is out.




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Top 10 front-load washer problems

1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisy,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunnion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completely closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nesessary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.Note some models send a signal to the motor and another to the control letting both know the door is secure before proceeding, corrosion gets into the lid lock and the door can be locked and the control is ready but the motor ain't getting the message.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Over-sudsing: Wrong Detergent, too much detergent, detergent in wrong dispensing drawer, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. On some models a suds detect is determined by the motor over amping, most machines will try a few mini loads to correct the problem. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the thermister/heater is out.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Either you have too much of the correct detergent in there or the wrong detergent in there. Here are a few of the errors:
1)Water fill problem: water took more than 10 minutes to fill to desired level sometimes indicated as a LF/IE or long fill/inlet error. Water valve screens clogged, hoses kinked, low water pressure, unpaid water bill. Check hose, clean screens.
2)Excessive vibration: noisey,roar, knocking noises. Bad damper,bearing or broken trunion. no error code
3)Dispenser drawer open/detergent in wrong compartment: washer will not operate with drawer open or cleaning products in wrong compartment.
4)Washer won't drain: clogged pump/filter, slow or clogged drain usually indicated as a LD/DE, if a code is given (long drain/drain error) Clear pump of objects
5)Drum overfilled: usually caused by sediment in the water level pressure sensing tube going up to the main control.Find it and blow out the sediment, re-secure pump out water and retry.
6)Door open, Door not latched, clothes/objects keeping door from completly closing. Tighten door latch, add washers if nessesary to make good contact and close door tighter in case of leaks.
7)Cold water does not enter washer: hoses connected backwards. Oops.
8)Oversudsing: Wrong Detergent, turbidity monitors pick up particles in the water and judge soil content then the washer allows for extra time to wash the clothes, if the wrong detergent is in there the machine thinks that is too much and declares a suds error. Remove detergent, retry
9)Locked motor: error LE,loose connection,broken wire/hallsensor, motor overheated/failed.
10)Water heating error, hE, the thermister/heater is out.



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I know this may sound silly, but I have seen this problem solved on many occasions by cleaning the filter screen(s) in your cold water supply hose!
This is because the softener dispenser must fill with cold water (on top of your softener liquid) in order to start the siphoning off of the softener. If the cold water supply is restricted, the dispenser will not receive enough water begin the siphon effect.
Now before you tear things apart, try this test...
Begin a wash cycle by filling with HOT water, and observe (listen to) how fast the tub is filling for a few seconds... Now change the wash temperature to COLD, and notice the difference in water flow. If you detect a noticeable decrease in water flow... Clean the cold water hose screens!
How? Unplug the unit! Turn the cold water valve off, and remove the hose. (If you did the test above, you will easily feel which hose is the cold one.) Use a small brush and a squirt bottle to clear the screen inside the inlet to the washer, and also check the end of the hose where it attaches to the plumbing... some guys put a screen at both ends of the hose. Put it back together, turn the water on and CHECK for leaks. All OK? Plug 'er in and wash a load, and pat yourself on the back for saving yourself the price of a service call!
Hope this helps...
Bondo

If your machine type is not a FAV6800AW or FAV9800AW please disregard my post.

Can you determine if the water leak is coming from the Top Lid Assembly? If so you may want to reseat the Inner Lid Panel assembly. See the Service Manual page 32 Lid Disassembly/Removal. Follow to step 5 and then reseat the inner panel. Could also be hose connections from the Water Inlet Valve to the Detergent Dispenser Water Valve. See pages 35&36 for info.

You will have to release the washer top from the washer base to inspect those valve assemblies. See page 33 for the process steps. All this assumes you want to DIY the repair if not I would call in a repair service.

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

Post back if you have questions.

Rich

Remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the three screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off. This will give you a full view of your dispenser and components. I strongly suspect that you have a hose leading from the dispenser to the fill tube along the door that may be either kinked or clogged. Inspect the hose for any kinks. You may have to remove it and flush with hot water. Let me know what you find. I hope this helps.

Two things might be wrong with this unit.  One problem is there is a blockage inside the hose that sends water into drum.  Make sure that's clear.  The other problem is the dispenser assembly may have a leaking problem and will spray water at an angle that will cause it to leak through the dispenser drawer.  My recommendation is to have the dispenser assembly inspected and possibly replaced.

Wires found in hose!
When we turned washer on it's side, we found the hose from the pump to the basket had been pierced by two stiff curved wires, still embedded in the hose. Water was leaking around the wires. Wires had come out of an underwire bra! Dealer had only heard of this once before; on his own washer!
MORAL: handwash your bras, ladies.... or pull those wires out each time.