Question about Ryobi Garden

1 Answer

Lost screw part 660634001. Where can I get a spare. Its the screw that styops the shaft rotating from the engine. Screws into shaft without nut. Machine is Ryobi RBC30SES

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    MVP:

    An expert that gotĀ 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 144 Answers

Contact the Ryobi company, if they do not have the part you need, check with a small engine repair place.

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How to replace the TPS.


no engine option stated, and is key fact to know here.
eg:
The 5.7L V8 engine does not use a separate Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body.

remove old TPS, and bolt on new.
its like 2 or 3 screws. no big deal.
but needs to be calibrated per fsm.
ill take a wild guess, 3.7L
3.7L Engine and 4.7.
  1. Remove air resonator tube at throttle body.
  2. Disconnect TPS electrical connector.
  3. Remove two TPS mounting screws.
  4. Remove TPS.
install
The throttle shaft end of throttle body slides into a socket in TPS. The TPS must be installed so that it can be rotated a few degrees. (If sensor will not rotate, install sensor with throttle shaft on other side of socket tangs). The TPS will be under slight tension when rotated.
  1. Install TPS and retaining screws.
  2. Tighten screws to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm) torque.
  3. Connect TPS electrical connector to TPS.
  4. Manually operate throttle (by hand) to check for any TPS binding before starting engine.
  5. Install air cleaner tube to throttle body.
some TPS need calibration
to see what yours needs, read the FSM
or at alldata.com
or here. I think all engines here, are TPS PCM autocalibrated.

read WJ car here
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

May 24, 2014 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Treager BBQ will not get hot at all.


Ensure your fire box is cleaned out and ventilation holes at the base are not obstructed. Ensure the induction fan is operating and moving air into the fire box.

According to Treager FAQ:

"I've been noticing that my grill temperature keeps dropping lower. What is the problem?
You need to "true" your auger. To do this:

Run the unit out of pellets.
Remove the allen screw and nut out of the auger and motor shaft.
Try spinning the auger shaft over the motor shaft. The auger shaft should spin freely over the motor shaft without binding.
If the auger binds, loosen the 7/16th inch bolts on the motor bracket and move bracket until you can rotate the auger shaft over the motor shaft. Then re-tighten 7/16th inch bolts. Make sure auger shaft still rotates over motor shaft, or repeat step 4 again until it does.
Reattach auger and motor shafts using the screw and nut which you removed in step 2."

Mar 05, 2014 | Traeger Industries BBQ070 All-in-One Grill...

1 Answer

I have a homelite Z830sb that won't stay running. It starts and the shaft and spool rotate, then it appears that the shaft siezes, the spool stops turnng and the engine dies. This all happens in a 2-4...


sounds like your shaft is probably wound up,twisted, this happens sometimes, they get frayed, they are a flexible shaft kinda like a speedometer cable., take the screws out that will remove the housing from the motor should be 4 screws and the eng will slide off the tube and then you can see your flex shaft, then take pliers and pull it out and my guess is that you will find it twisted and frayed so that it winds up catches and springs back, GoodLuck

May 02, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Repco fitness Treadmill error E7


This happened to mine, e7 is an error in the incline, meaning that the incline is too high or too low in the accepted range for the starting position of the treadmill. When the treadmill starts it looks to see if the incline screw shaft of the incline motor is in the correct position. If it isn't it gives the error message and shuts down. This happened to us after we had moved and the treadmill was bumped around a bit, this caused the incline worm shaft to move out of position, and that is why we got the error message.
To fix the problem I just took the cover off the motor area of the treadmill (WITH THE POWER OFF AND CORD DISCONNECTED) and located the incline motor, it has a threaded rod and a big nut coming along side the motor itself. It is the smaller motor. On the end of the threaded shaft is a plus sign cut into the shaft, so that you can insert a philips head screw driver into it and rotate the shaft. The shaft will rotate easily in one direction. Insert the screw driver into the end of the shaft and rotate the shaft so it goes as far into the big nut holding it as you can, don't twist it tightly, just make sure that the shaft has gone all the way in without binding, it still needs to rotate freely in and out. Put the cover back on and then switch it on. The treadmill should now start right up.

Mar 26, 2011 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

Where is the ignition control module on an 1989 totota camry


Toyota Camry 1983-1996 Repair Guide Ignition Module - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

External
All engines, except the 2S-ELC, have an external igniter.
  1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Separate the wiring harness connections.
  3. Unbolt the igniter.
  4. Loosen the nut holding the wire lead onto the coil.
  5. Tag and disconnect the wire lead.
  6. Lift the igniter off its mount.

To install:
  1. Mount the igniter to the bracket.
  2. Attach the wire lead to the coil.
  3. Connect the harness.
  4. Connect the negative battery cable. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

Internal
REMOVING IGNITER WITH DISTRIBUTOR
See Figure 1
The internal igniter is only applicable to 2S-ELC engine Camry models. All other engines are equipped with an external igniter assembly.
Review the complete service procedure before this repair. Note position, color of wire and routing of all internal distributor assembly wiring.
  1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.
  2. Remove the number one spark plug. Place a finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to top dead center. When there is pressure felt on the finger at the spark plug hole, this will be top dead center of the compression stroke on number one cylinder. If not, repeat the procedure. Install the number one spark plug.
  3. Mark the position of the distributor flange in relation to the camshaft housing. Remove the IIA distributor assembly.
  4. Remove the distributor cap with the wires attached, and remove the packing. Mark the position of the rotor relative to the housing and pull the rotor straight up and off the shaft. The distributor cap is held to the housing with three retaining screws.
  5. Remove the ignition coil dust cover.
  6. Remove the two nuts and spring washers and disconnect the four wires from the terminals on the side of the ignition coil. The wires are color coded yellow, blue, brown and red.
  7. Remove the four retaining screws and remove the ignition coil and packing.
  8. Remove the nuts and disconnect the pink, white and black wires from the igniter terminals. Remove the two igniter retaining screws and remove the igniter.

To install:
  1. Attach the new igniter with the two retaining screws. Connect the pink, black and white wires to their respective terminals and install the nuts. Make sure that the pick-up coil wires are secured in their clips and that there is slack in the wires.
  2. Install the ignition coil and attach it with the four retaining screws.
  3. Connect the four ignition coil wires to their respective terminals and install the two nuts and spring washers.
  4. Install the coil dust cover and push the rotor onto the shaft.
  5. Place the distributor cap and wires into position. Install and tighten the retaining screws.
  6. Install the distributor assembly and connect the negative battery cable.
  7. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.

71948a0.jpg

Fig. 1: Make sure you remember where the colored wires attach for installation-2S-ELC engine
  1. Reset any digital equipment such as radio memory and the clock if necessary.

REMOVING IGNITER WITHOUT REMOVING DISTRIBUTOR
  1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and di-electric insulator covers. Disconnect the red and yellow wires from the coil and the pink, white and black wires from the igniter.
  2. Remove the igniter. It may be necessary to mark and rotate the distributor to gain access to the igniter retaining screws. The timing should be checked after the distributor is returned to the mark.

To install:
  1. Install the new igniter using the two new retaining screws.
  2. Twist the pick-up coil wires together, install the white wire first then pink and black wires to their original locations. Make sure the wires do not touch the housing generator or advance plate.
  3. Route the red and yellow wires from the igniter so they do not contact moving parts. Connect the red wire to the right coil terminal (with the brown wire) and the yellow wire to the left terminal (with the blue wire). Replace the covers, rotor and cap.
  4. Connect a tachometer and timing light to the engine and adjust the ignition timing.

Hope this helped (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 05, 2010 | 1989 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Fix the flexible drive shaft has a problem


The Metal Clamp referenced clamps directly on the end of the '2-Piece Gear Box Assembly'. The gear box assembly is an aluminum casting held together by 3 machine screws. The Metal Clamp does not actually lock the drive shaft housing into the gearbox assembly. The flexible drive shaft cable engages the engine output shaft, and the gear box assembly. This is a fixed length (non-adjustable) assembly.

First ensure that the drive shaft assembly is fully engaged at the quick connect fitting and that the "snap" is engaged. Then make sure the knob is fully tightened. The quick connect allows you to quickly switch between various attachments offered on this unit.

Now, based on your description, it sounds like the 'anti-rotation screw' 791-182519 has backed out or is gone. This will allow the entire cutting assembly (gearbox forward) to slip off of the drive shaft housing and disengage the flexible drive shaft. If your cutting assembly is attempting to rotate while in operation, or the drive is not engaged as you described.
Do not continue to operate the unit until you get this fixed as you could strip out the drive shaft end or cause other serious damage to the equipment or yourself.

If it is the anti-rotation screw, then make sure to push the drive shaft housing firmly into the gear box and ensure to align the holes in the drive shaft housing and the gear box. If the screw is lost, then find one similar sized, but be CERTAIN that it is not too long as it will actually engage the flexible drive shaft and prevent rotation, or cut the drive shaft.

Back to the clamp: If it is still wanting to move, then remove the lock nut and place slightly oversized washers on the bolt head and the lock nut. This will force more pressure (does not take much) on the clamp and will lock it down.

I just fixed mine today (071809) in fact and had to drill a new hole in the drive shaft housing as the original was completely wallowed out.

I hope this helps.

DROPNDEAL

Jul 18, 2009 | Troy Bilt Tb70ss Gas Trimmer

1 Answer

On the armature is there a bolt that is press on,


A bolt is never pressed into a hole. Your question is not clear to me. Generally, a key & keyway is to keep the rotating item in time. Another means is to keep the rotating item from sliding off the shaft. Common ways:
1) set screw(s) from the item hub over the keyway and sometimes against the shaft
2) Bolt threaded into end of shaft, or nut screws over threaded end....mamy time it is a "LEFT Handed" thread (Turn counter clockwise to loosen)

Jun 16, 2009 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

1 Answer

Starter cord tangled on shaft 3043ye


to remove the clutch remove the four screws that connet the trimmer shaft to the engine, remove the shaft. Then insert the correct torex head driver into the center of the clutch cover. There is a screw (the same head as the screws that holds the trimmer shaft on) Remove the clutch cover, insert a screwdriver into the engine cooling fins to hold the engine from rotating and turn the clutch from the engine. The clutch had a remove arrow to help with the direction to turn in order to remove.

May 24, 2009 | Ryobi 30 Cubic Centimeter Curved Shaft Gas...

1 Answer

Screws on my Sears track drive snowblower unthread themselves.


Back wheels have a gear that connects to the drive chain. on each side. those spin.
The front ones which are Idlers do not spin as the idler wheel as a bushing in it that allows free motion on the shaft without resistance. Use a nylock nut with Locktight for starters. The try that.

Hope this helps. -Jeff anchorage small engine repair.

Feb 02, 2009 | Craftsman 16" High Garden Tractor Snow and...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Garden Logo

Related Topics:

95 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ryobi Garden Experts

Nick Olsen

Level 2 Expert

183 Answers

Rexter1

Level 2 Expert

40 Answers

Roland W VanLue
Roland W VanLue

Level 3 Expert

486 Answers

Are you a Ryobi Garden Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...