Question about GE WVSR1060A Top Load Washer

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I have a GE wcx1070 and it will not agitate or spin will fill the tub and drain but won't spin. I have checked for obstrutions in the tub and under the agitater. and the belt looks good if it does spin it spins real slow and will stop, It won't even make a full rotation. Does anybody have an Idea of what this could be?

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I think it might be the lid switch. I have a GE wcx1070 - 8e3407e.jpgas you can see it can fail mechanically and electrically. To get to the lid switch you remove the front panel firstf373b4d.jpgthen you can remove the top and access the slid switch.
Use this training manual

Posted on Aug 06, 2010

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Grinds in spin cycle at bottom of wash tub on spin cycle

Posted on Jan 19, 2014

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

My GE washer G153 was making a loud noise when draining/spinning out. Next load filled up with water and done nothing else. Now machine turns on but will do nothing.


have an electrician check out the agitator control module. This unit controls the agitation action of the machine and gets power when the tub fills to the desired level and switches over.

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Remove agitator (it will pop off when pried) then you will find your answer. Mine was a broken tub collar to shaft.

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I fixed it yesterday. After checking the continuity of my lid switch and pressure switch and finding them ok I removed the tubing from the pressure switch and applied air (blew into it). There was a clog and blowing on it removed it for now. Apparently the pressure switch was telling the machine that the tub was full of water and wouldn't let it start the spin cycle. I ran three loads last night and it worked perfect. I may have to remove the connection on the side of the tub and clean it properly if it clogs again.

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2 Answers

Ge washer does not agitate; fills and spins okay


Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.

Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.

I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.

I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.

In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.

So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.

But I digress.

The procedure to reset the control board is this:

1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.

It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.

Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.

Jan 21, 2009 | GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Kenmore 70 series


Okay...I'm a little confused on your symptoms. You initially said it fills, but doesn't agitate or spin, but drains.

Then, you finished with the washer filling, no agitate or spin, but now doesn't drain.

Which one is it?

The symptoms you describe are usually associated with the following:

1. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or drain - lid switch.
2. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin, but still drains - motor coupling.
3. Fills, may or may not agitate, won't spin or spins slow - gear case.
4. Fills, agitates, spins, but does not drain – water pump.

NOTE: These are the more common failure items with these symptoms.

Double check the lid switch by opening and closing the lid. You should hear a clicking noise to indicate the switch is working. The switch is located under the top panel along the wash tub rim on the right-hand side. If not, check to make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece on the lid itself) is in place. This activates the lid switch when the lid is closed. Also, check the mounting screws along the rim (there are two of them) to see if they are tight.

If the motor coupling were bad, the washer would still drain, but there would be a rattling sound as the washer tries to spin or agitate.

If you need replacement parts, go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your model number in the "Search by Model Number" window. The lid switch can be found under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). Instructions on how to replace are located at the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

If you wish to replace the motor coupling, the part can be found under the “Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump” heading as item number 13 (part #285753A). If you need instructions on how to replace, just follow this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Now, there’s a couple of ways to drain the washer. If it’s a simple lid switch problem, you don’t need to drain the washer to replace the switch. With a broken switch repaired, the washer will run and drain by itself. However, if you wish to drain the tub you can use a shop vac to pull a vacuum on the drain hose. This may take a few times depending on the size of the shop vac. These wash tubs typically have about a 35 gallon capacity. If you do not own a shop vac, you can by-pass the lid switch by jumpering the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector that is connected to the console. CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before jumpering, then plug back in.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I’m wrong about the symptoms, please post back and update me on what the washer is or is not doing, so I can assist you further.

May 15, 2008 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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