I lost power on one bus bar in our fuse panel and am looking for a temp solution to operating our electric 220 stove and possible the oven. I have access of a second 110 cable from our lower flat. If some connection is feasable I need to know the size of cable required and I can directly attach wires to either the back of the stove or to the male 220 plug itself. The problem is that one of our 110 wires hasn't any power coming directly out of our electric company meter. Looking forward to some much needed help. Richard
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TURN OFF POWER TO THE STOVE OR UNPLUG IT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TOUCHING **ANYTHING**. I need the make/model of your unit to help you accurately. HOWEVER, the first thing you need to do is(and this applies if I'm interpreting you correctly)replace the power cord--it will be connected to the terminal block--on the vast majority of ovens, you have a left-hand terminal, generally known as L1(a power wire), a center terminal(*normally* the neutral connection), and then the right-hand terminal, generally known as L2(2nd hot supply wire). Take a picture of the AC outlet so you can purchase the correct power cable for your stove. Also, take a picture of the terminal block in the rear of the stove just to make sure. I'm assuming that the wires are all connected in the stove but the neutral wire is either broken or missing from the power cord. Due to how most ovens operate, THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS CONDITION. When the unit is plugged in, even though the oven is off, there is still 120v applied to the heating elements. When you turn on the oven, instead of being connected to a ground, the other side of the heating elements are simply connected to 120v from the other side of the panel, adding up to 240v and the elements heat up. I hope this helps you!
You might check your fuse box and see if your stove breaker for 220 is tripped. It will be midway between off and on. Push the breaker to the off position and then all the way to the on position. That will return power to your stove. This is the first place to look
Some old stoves did have a fuse for the oven igniter. It could be just a bad igniter. Check under the top panel and see if there is a small black cap toward the right side toward the back. If there is one then it is the fuse. replace the fuse and see if the oven comes on. You may still need to replace the igniter. If it an electric stove then the element is probabaly burned out or a wire burned off.
I would recommend getting an electrician. If you chose not to any mistakes you make can be a safety hazard and possibly kill somebody.
In this area we are required to use a 4 wire connection; Phase, Phase, Neutral (bare or white in the US), Earth (green in the US). You are missing the Earth connection and will need to run a wire back to your electrical panel and connect to the earth bus. Earth and Neutral are connected together at one point in your home. In older systems the Neutral was used for the earth connection as well, this is dangerous if a fault occurs. The Earth may also be called ground as could the Neutral but they are different even though they are connected connected together at one point in your system. If you have an older electrical system and do not have the appropriate Earth connections I would highly recommend hiring an electrician, electricity can cause fires and kill.
if neither the cooktop nor the oven works check your voltage. Is there 240 volts to the unit. Flip the breaker off and back on. If that doesn't work, with the unit unplugged, remove the cover where the stove cord is connected and check the connections
check the power behind the stove, the outlet for 220 volts, i just fix one with the same problem, it was getting 110 volts but not the 220 volts. so there was nothing wrong with the stove but with the power source.when the stove indicator lights work and the clock, it means that only 110 volts are coming to the stove.
Your unit uses 220 volts to provide heating. Some elements are wired to one of the two 'legs' of the 220 giving you 'low'. High uses 220
220 consists of three wires...two 'hot' (red and black) and a neutral which is white. Neutral to hot will give you 110...hot to hot 220. Measure accordingly and use care! Neutral and the frame of the stove are effectively the same terminal...for safety.
You say some of the wires are burnt or a fuse is blown. They need to be replaced with proper wire...not just any kind. There is high temp insulated wire available from many ACE and other home stores or parts shops. It needs to be thick enough, too. Make all connections carefully and fully onto clean terminals. Tighten clockwise.
Check the voltage coming to the element on various settings as above. If you only get 110/120, you have an open supply issue which needs to be found.
Look for: loose wires, corrosion, burned insulation to ground.
try lifting the stove top assy and checking wires under main top, leading to the elements them selves??? if tis tripping and not allowing to reset its gotta be an obvious short. isit hard wired directly to stove or into a 220 cord and plug???id look again, perhaps remove entire back panel and have someone trip on the breaker you might see where it flashes as it trips off
You should unscrew the small back panel, on the undercover should be a scetch of the wiring.
If not the three red are live, black is neutral and the g/y is earth, from number 5 to 1 connect as follows: 5 and 4-black,3,2,1 red and look for a screw type fitting or green wires to connect earth.
Its important to connect earth before operating the stove as it cuold lead to serious injury if not connected.
Hope this helps