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How to connect a 220 stove with 2 110 cables

I lost power on one bus bar in our fuse panel and am looking for a temp solution to operating our electric 220 stove and possible the oven.
I have access of a second 110 cable from our lower flat.
If some connection is feasable I need to know the size of cable required and I can directly attach wires to either the back of the stove or to the male 220 plug itself. The problem is that one of our 110 wires hasn't any power coming directly out of our electric company meter. Looking forward to some much needed help. Richard

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  • Bugsey88 Apr 27, 2008

    Perhaps I didn't make it clear. I would be using a second 110 cable which comes from our lower flat, this cable would be from that flats fusebox. Each flat has it's own fusebox and supply line from the city. Would using 2 110 supply lines from 2 different fuseboxes cause a short? What size wire would be needed if not? Cheers!

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Cannot be done you would be using the same side of the line and it would be a direct short

Posted on Apr 27, 2008

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220 stove has nothing hooked up to the neutral


TURN OFF POWER TO THE STOVE OR UNPLUG IT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TOUCHING **ANYTHING**. I need the make/model of your unit to help you accurately. HOWEVER, the first thing you need to do is(and this applies if I'm interpreting you correctly)replace the power cord--it will be connected to the terminal block--on the vast majority of ovens, you have a left-hand terminal, generally known as L1(a power wire), a center terminal(*normally* the neutral connection), and then the right-hand terminal, generally known as L2(2nd hot supply wire). Take a picture of the AC outlet so you can purchase the correct power cable for your stove. Also, take a picture of the terminal block in the rear of the stove just to make sure. I'm assuming that the wires are all connected in the stove but the neutral wire is either broken or missing from the power cord. Due to how most ovens operate, THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS CONDITION. When the unit is plugged in, even though the oven is off, there is still 120v applied to the heating elements. When you turn on the oven, instead of being connected to a ground, the other side of the heating elements are simply connected to 120v from the other side of the panel, adding up to 240v and the elements heat up. I hope this helps you!

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2 Answers

How do I install a 220 volt outlet using existing wiring?


I would recommend getting an electrician. If you chose not to any mistakes you make can be a safety hazard and possibly kill somebody.

In this area we are required to use a 4 wire connection; Phase, Phase, Neutral (bare or white in the US), Earth (green in the US). You are missing the Earth connection and will need to run a wire back to your electrical panel and connect to the earth bus. Earth and Neutral are connected together at one point in your home. In older systems the Neutral was used for the earth connection as well, this is dangerous if a fault occurs. The Earth may also be called ground as could the Neutral but they are different even though they are connected connected together at one point in your system. If you have an older electrical system and do not have the appropriate Earth connections I would highly recommend hiring an electrician, electricity can cause fires and kill.

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1 Answer

Replaced circuit breaker with a brand new one. There is still no power to anything that runs off that circuit.


Did you check the output of the breaker?

If you replaced the breaker (with one of the types specified on the panel cover) and there is still no output between it and the neutral bar, then there's some sort of problem with the bus bar in the panel. You should shut off power at the service disconnect and carefully inspect the portion of the bus bar to which the breaker connects. You're looking for darkened / pitted copper or aluminum bus. These are indications of poor continuity that result in heat. You may have luck abandoning that breaker location and selecting another, unused location for the breaker instead.


Did you check the neutral wire associated with this circuit?

An open neutral will mimic a "no power" problem like a blown fuse or open breaker - even when the fuse or breaker isn't the problem. The circuit consists of a hot and neutral. One without the other gives a "no power" indication. Keep in mind that the hot (or neutral for that matter) may test "good" in the panel, but in fact may have opened and *any* connection (splice, wire nut, device, etc.) between the panel and where no power is first observed. Check ALL locations (switches, fixtures, outlets, junction boxes, etc.) in the circuit for open broken connections. It can be time consuming - but this is the only way to find the break point. Additionally, there may be a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacle that is supplying power to the part of the circuit that you noticed has failed. Press the RESET button on all of these devices to make sure none have tripped - and those that have - are reset.

Good luck!

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1 Answer

Wiring diagram for three phase power with two 200 amp service boxes inside building


This work requires a license (or qualified person) everywhere that the National Electrical Code is enforced.

If you're asking how to wire a single phase 200 amp panel from a larger, 3 phase panel of the same voltage - ONE way is to install a 2 pole - 200 amp breaker into the 3 phase panel. Provide 4 correctly sized conductors with the correct insulation in a cable or conduit between the 3 phase panel and the 200 amp single phase panel. Two of these conductors should be black and red (for 120/208 volt system) and connect to the 2 pole - 200 amp circuit breaker terminals, the third should be white and connected to the neutral bus bar. The forth should be green and is connected to the neutral bus bar as well but *only if* it is "service equipment" If it is a "main or sub panel", the green wire should be connected to the ground bus bar. The other end of the conductors should be terminated in a "main lug only" 200 amp panel. The back and red connect to "line 1" and "line 2" bus lugs, the white to the neutral bus bar that is NOT electrically connected to the panel enclosure (do not install the screw or strap between the bar and enclosure). The green must be connected by installing a separate bar that is securely fastened both mechanically and electrically to the enclosure for ground connections.

There is a great deal going on here - and plenty of variables that can change how to do this work, safely and correctly. This is an example of just ONE of many different ways to do the work for a particular installation. There is no one way that works for all situations. If your situation does not support this method - you will have an unsafe installation and subject the building and people in it to a dangerous fire / safety hazard.

Please, consult a licensed electrician before attempting this work.

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2 Answers

I am taking electricity from my home to my garage. I have a Q06-12L100s load center in the garage and want to know how to connect the wiresl. The ground is obvious. The white wire is connected to the big...


Here's a picture of a messy amateur installation:

steve_con_74.jpg

Look closely and find the power feeder conductors entering the panel on the bottom. The white rises up to the right and terminates in the "neutral" bus lug on the top right. The black also rises up to the right and terminates in the left "line" bus lug on the left. The red wire rises up to the left and terminates in the "line" bus lug on the right - just below the neutral lug. Finally, the ground rises left and terminates in a separate ground bar that is secured directly to the back of the upper left side of the panel box in pre-tapped holes for this purpose.

Since you are supplying this panel from your home's panel, you MUST keep the neutral and ground feeders separated in this panel (even though they will both probably originate from the neutral bar in your home's service panel). You must NOT install the long "bond" screw through the neutral bar in to the panel box. If the long bond screw is already installed, you must REMOVE it (usually this screw it shipped loose in a bag with a tag on it).

When the picture was taken, the flash reflected back making the right side of the neutral bar difficult to see - so I can't determine if the screw is installed there or not. When connecting circuits to this panel, the hot wires will of course go to the circuit breaker terminals, but the neutral and ground wires must not be mixed. The ground wires (and ONLY the ground wires) must terminate in the ground bar. The neutral wires (and ONLY the neutral wires) must terminate in the neutral bus bar. The person that wired this panel has mixed them. This would be a dangerous situation if the the long bond screw mentioned above is installed in the neutral bar to bond it to the panel box.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thanks.

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1 Answer

Where is the fusible link for 1999 dodge ram


I know that fusible links on GM cars come directly off of the starter positive terminal. They can be identified by looking for a cylindrical (3/4" long by 1/2" in diameter) barrel of plastic on a colored piece of wire. If the technician pulls on a fusible link which is about 8" long (replacement), then the wire insulation will stretch by about 1" to 3" indicating the wire inside has broken.
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I looked up fusible link on the 1999 Dodge Ram and came up with this information which is a little bit different as far as form factor:

Fusible Links Removal & Installation All Engines To Remove:
NOTE: If a generator cartridge fuse fails, be certain to inspect and test the vehicle charging system before replacing the cartridge fuse and returning the vehicle to service.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The negative battery cable
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    • The two screws securing the generator cartridge fuse to the two B(+) terminal stud bus bars within the PDC
    • The generator cartridge fuse from the PDC
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • The generator cartridge fuse onto the two B(+) terminal stud bus bars within the PDC
    • The two screws securing the generator cartridge fuse to the two B(+) terminal stud bus bars within the PDC
    • Tighten the screws
      1. Torque to: 30 in. lbs. (3.4 Nm)
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    • The cover onto the PDC
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1 Answer

220 appliances in house all out.lights up but either dont heat or wont bake .lightning could be culprit but never lost tv reception.dryer runs ,no heat.water heater out.stove lights up wont get hot.shut...


Sounds like you have lost one leg of your power

Think of it like this

You an upside down "Y" at the top of your breaker panel
220 - 240 volts come in the Y and break in half 120 volts to each leg of the "Y"
A 220 Volt breaker straddles both legs a 110 volt breaker only contacts one leg
I suspect that you have lost one leg
Possibly at the main breaker ( top most)( main disconnect) in your panel
If you have a tester with the capacity to test 240 you can test the two top lugs where the main wire comes in Test them together That is one probe of your tester on each wire you should show 240+/- volts
Then you can move down through the panel 120 +/- on each leg
Hope this helps if you need more just let me know
Scott

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1 Answer

Wiring a used Jenn Air


The red and the black are the two 'hot' wires and the green is the ground. The red and black are connected to L1 and L2 of your cordset or circuit breaker. The green connects to the ground bus bar

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1 Answer

I am running new 220 lines for my dryer and stove I would like to see a wiring diagram for hooking the new wire into the fuse panel.The existing service was gas.thanks


on a 220 set-up the green wire goes to the neutral bar where the white wires from the 110 breakers are connected. the two remaing wires, black and white go to the double breaker you will be using for power. it doesn't matter which wire goes to either breaker. at the power outlet that the dryer is the green wire goes to the ground (:-) the right hand side of this simple diagram, and it doesn't matter which of the two remaining wires hook up to the left side of the outlet (black and white)

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