I was running el-wire off of a heavy duty 10 amp 12 volt power supply and it worked ok for awhile, then quit. I thought the driver died but I have tried it with a working fish driver and nothing happens. Can the el-wire be no good anymore or do I just have the wrong power supply? It also doesn't work on a 9 volt. It is several years old, like maybe 5. How long is the stuff supposed to last normally?
Thanks for your advice,
It looks like there are limitations to the inverters and length of liffe due to outputs and frequencies. Length of wire will govern which inverter to use.
Maybe your HD 10 amp 12 volt power supply simply burnt out the wire? Consider that (on the page I have just looked at) inverters are run on 2 AA batteries or 6v inverters and output 6 mAmps (not 12 volt and definitely not 10 Amp!). Is this Power Supply an inverter specifically for the el-wire?
Read up this web site (and others) and you may find the solution (and the cause of the problem).
Sorry I can't help any further than directing you to the Internet.
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You would need to have a stable 12 volt DC power supply that plugs into a 120 VAC outlet. You can google these, and they come in quite a few varieties. The most expensive are the variable voltage "lab grade" ones, then the bench grade fixed voltage variety, and then the cheap consumer grade 12 volt 1 or 2 amp device designed for CB's and small 12 volt devices. But this will not work, because you are transmitting and could be putting out 40 or 50 watts with that thing. So you will need a good 10 amp to 20 amp dedicated transceiver power supply, unless you just plan on receiving in which case you only need a couple of amps and the cheapie will do. It's always better to have more amperage in a power supply. You then need to think about issues like back-up power with a gel cell 12 volt battery, which also would allow you to use the cheapie supply, because you would have plenty of current to XMIT from the battery. Schematic shows a very basic 12v - 30 amp supply. Good luck!
To run an HF transceiver (100 W), the radios normally want to see up to 20 - 35 watts of power available at 12 volts. You earlier referenced the FT-990 HF transmitter, which takes a normal AC voltage input from a line cord. Normally a 20 amp circuit would suffice. Since you did not specify if the radio has the internal heavy duty internal AC switching power supply. For an 110 V connection, the unit requires an 8 amp fuse, and 4 amp for 220. I have included a link where you can download the manual for reference: http://www.download.n7tgb.net/yaesu/FT990/FT-990_Manual.pdf
Probably due to the power supply is limited in it's power output. I'll bet it's not much higher than a 10 amp rating at 12 volts, the amp is designed to work with 14,4 volts and will draw at least 20 amps meaning it will take 300 watts of power to run that amp. If you limit the current to 10 amps that means it will need 30 volts to make up for the amperage that isn't there. Since your power supply cannot do that it just puts out what it can and ends up at the bare minimum before your amp will just shut off.
The 1585202 winch is capable of pulling 8500 pounds when provided adequate DC power. With no load (winding up slack the cable) the motor requires 84 amps and winds at 18 feet / second. When fully loaded (8500 pounds), the motor requires in excess of 320 amps and winds at 3.5 feet / second. That's an awfully large amount of current and it will need heavy duty power supply cables to work without overheating or melting insulation. I suspect your 1585200 is the same model with same electrical requirements, but did not include a fairlead, mounting plate, etc..
Superwinch has wiring kit #2007 for front mount (5 foot cables) and #2008 for trailer mounts (25 foot cables) and can simplify the installation with other accessories as well. They're a U.S. company and can be contacted them directly:
359 Lake Road
Dayville, CT 06241 US
F: 860-928-1143 www.superwinch.com
bqsmc Dang scooters are a mess to troubleshoot because there are so many things that have to work to make it run. Well the brake energizing means you are getting power to the brake but the problem could be the throttle pot, or the speed control pot or the motor itself. To eliminate the motor disconnect the motor connector from the wiring harness and with two jumper wires supply 12 volts to the red and black wires in the plug. (you can jumper from one of your batteries) and the brake wires (2 smaller black wires) you might try jumping the brake first to see if the 12 volts will energize it. If not you will have to supply 24 volts the brake to energize it. If you get the brake energized then supply voltage to the motor leads and it should turn (Block the rear wheels off the ground) If it doesn't then bad motor. If it turns then reconnect the connectors. And then order a speed pot and throttle pot and replace both in the console Hope this helps
Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent. If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.
Yes, just be sure connections are heavy enough wire, and obviously the inverter uses 12 vdc input. Hook jumper wires positive to positive, negative to negative, on all 12 volt batteries. Deep cycle batteries will work better than car batteries. Just remember, when re-charging them, that they last longer when charged slowly, so don't use a high amp setting on charger and to monitor them closely, and do it in a well ventilated area, away from any ignition sources.
What is it exactly that you want to accomplish? It looks like this unit is powered by the electrical system of your truck, but if it indeed can provide 2500 Watts of output power, its input demand from your truck electrical system will be in excess of 200 Amps!!! You'll need some pretty hefty wiring to support that type of demand, and I doubt if your alternator can put out that amount of current.
Are you sure you want/need to do this - and run it off your truck electrical system?
Sounds as if you either have some bad wiring probably on the 12volt side or a major problem with the amp. Seeing as how it's new I'd be taking it back to the retailer. I just hope you didn't reverse the polarity of the 12 volts or maybe put 12 volts up a speaker output. That could mess with the warranty somewhat. Are you sure you have the 12 volts connected to a good solid supply and the earth a good one too. I always ensure any heavy drain equipment is connected directly to the battery with heavy duty wiring and well fused.