Question about Refrigerators
first thing to understand is that all the cooling in a conventional
frost free refrigerator usually originates in the freezer compartment,
just a small portion of that air is circulated through the fridge
compartment to cool there. (Technically the opposite is true. Warm air
is circulated into the freezer compartment where its heat is removed by
the refrigeration process leaving behind cooled air.) In any case, if
that air flow is hampered in any way, cooling problems will result.
The second thing you need to know is that the compressor (large black dome at the rear of the refrigerator) provides all the cooling ability for the whole appliance. It has to be running in order for any cooling to take place. As long as the compressor is running, the possibilities listed below will need to be checked one at a time. If the compressor is not running or continually trying to start but failing within seconds, clicking and then shutting down, someone will need to look into why. That alone is likely the cause of your cooling problems.
Keep in mind that refrigeration compressors will stop cooling soft drink and food vending machines like the Antares vending machines, once their fins become clogged. There are lots of things that can cause cooling problems. One of the most common causes of poor cooling in a frost free refrigerator is a defrost system failure.
Defrost timers frequently fail and stop keeping time. If this happens during the cooling mode, it will allow excessive frost to accumulate on the cooling coil reducing air flow, eventually stopping it altogether as it never switches into defrost mode to melt it. The timer can also stick in the defrost mode and never advance into the cooling cycle again. The defrost termination thermostat opens the circuit to the heater when it senses a set temperature. This set temperature is usually high enough that the cooling coil should be totally defrosted by then. If this device fails and remains permanently open, the heater would never get power to defrost the evaporator.
If the defrost termination thermostat contacts short out, it will allow the defrost heater to stay on as long as the timer is in the defrost mode. A symptom of that is usually greatly fluctuating temperatures in the freezer compartment possibly causing thawing and re-freezing of food stuffs.
Other possibilities are the condenser (hot part), air flow, air damper or drain problems, you neede to check one by one to determine excalty where is the wrong.
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Posted on Aug 06, 2010
As you have not provided me the make and model no. of your refrigerator to start with I am providing you general tips to resolve the issue:
In your case the problem could be with the basic electrical controls and also a possiblity of boost of refrigerant, as that is one thing that helps with the overall cooling. A big possibility that you may have dirty condenser coils, a door that doesn’t seal tightly, or a defective temperature control.
1) Check the cold control. Be sure it is set to “cold.” Normally, the temperature inside the refrigerator should be about 37 degrees F.
2) Listen for the freezer fan inside the freezer. When the freezer fan is running, it means the defrost timer and the cold control in the refrigerator are both set to cool.
3) Listen for the compressor fan (which will also tell you where the compressor is located—typically behind or beneath the refrigerator). When the freezer fan is operating, the compressor fan should also be working (most of the time).
4) If one of the fans is not working or the compressor is off, the refrigerator will offer very little cooling or none at all.
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Posted on Aug 05, 2010
If you are not hearing the compressor cycle on and off in intervals and there is no air flow present inside the unit, this will confirm that there has been a severe malfunction within the units assembly. You will need to check the following areas for faults:
1. Compressor- Make sure this unit is functioning. if it is not cycling as designed, this will be the culprit. If it is cycling but very hot to the touch when operating, check the condenser coils for debris and clean them if necessary.
2. Compressor start relay - This is the main on/off switch that is attached to the side of the compressor. This relay, when energized by the main control board, starts the compressor. if the relay has failed, it will not start the compressor, thus, rendering the unit inoperable. Pull the relay off and shack it. If it rattles, replace it.
3. Evaporator fan - This is a very important part of the evaporator core. This is the principal air mover of the unit. If this fan fails, the inside freezer and refrigerator will not cool, at all. You will need to remove all the freezer shelves and content to access this unit. It is concealed behind a panel inside the back section of the freezer compartment. Once the concealment panel is removed, you will expose the core and fan. the fan can be tested with a multimeter for proper continuity. You can also jump the terminals with a jumper wire to see if it is still in working order. An external power source will be needed for this test. if the fan fails the test, replace the fan motor.
4. Condenser fan - This is also a very important fan. This fan is mounted near the condenser coils and can fail. You can test it in the same manner as the evaporator fan. replace the condenser fan if it proves to be damaged.
5. Main PCB(Printed Circuit Board)- This is basically your main power controller. This board routes power to all the fans and compressor unit located in the assembly. it also routes power to the lights and ice maker/dispenser, as well. This will be the most expensive repair, in this case. If all the above areas prove to be functional, the main PCB will be the culprit. You can easily locate this board. It is usually mounted on a bracket, near the compressor platform, or behind a concealment panel on the rear of the unit. Once you have gained access, visibly, inspect the board for burn markings at the relay mounts and jumpers. check the entire circuit board for discolorations like brown marks or black burn marks at the plug-in connectors. If this refrigerator is totally dead, this will be the cause.
6. Monitoring thermostats - These are located in each compartment. Replace each thermostat if all the other areas check out ok.
7. Condenser coils- The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
You will find the culprit in one or all of the areas stated above.
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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