Question about Stihl Ts 510 760 Cut Off Saw Repair Manual

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I have put a new cylinder,piston,rings,gasket,and carb on this ts 760 and it is still bogging out when i try to cut.

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Try carb adjustment or carbon buildup behind muffler

Posted on Sep 09, 2010


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Stihl TS400 stone cutter not working (no compression) so replaced piston rings, new gasket kit and clean for carb new spark plug (good spark when engin turned over) cleaned all air filters, replaced all...

You did not indicate whether or not you have compression now that you have changed out the gaskets and piston rings. If not, it seems to me that the problem could be a) cracked head or block, b) bad valve(s) or even c) a warped head.

Sorry for the bad news (if I am right).

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Rebuilt a Stihl TS400 concrete saw, and now it wont cut, the engine dies down and has no power but revs up? Ive tried everything!

All these people are missing a basic thing: check the compression. If you did all thus work yourself, you may have reused the head gasket or not installed the new one correctly. It will run with no load, but once force in exerted, the pressure finds the leak and exploits it. There is a reason 2-cycle engines run at 130-160 psi normally.

Dec 27, 2012 | Stihl Ts400 Cut Off Saw Carb Carburetor...

1 Answer

I have a Echo 452 CS, exchanged piston and rings, engine starts and runs perfect only when I start cutting wood the engine dies immediatly. Air filter is clean, spark is OK. What could be the problem?

Fuel starvation, either due to a blockage in the fuel filter in the tank, or a split fuel hose, or dirt in the carb, it may also be due to the carb settings set too lean, when you re fitted the new piston are you sure the base gasket was correctly seated? and any pulse holes were not covered ( gasket correct orientation ).

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TS 420, New carb, hot spark , good compression 85lbs, primer bulb pumps up , runs on sprayed gas in carb, wont get gas on its own ???????, what else to check, can pick up in tank be bad but stil

i have to say 85lbs is not very high, badly leaking seals, or leaking cylinder base gasket will stop the fuel being pulled in, badly fitting impulse hose will also stop the fuel pumping.

Mar 03, 2012 | Saws

1 Answer

55 rancher-put new after market piston,ring and cylinder new sparkplug,cleaned carb,tried adjusting hi lo-new gas filter,new fuel line ,cleaned air filter-will start but on acelleration bogs and dies took...

I had a very similar problem with a stihl 029 farm boss.I did everything you did except I took it to a shop to do the piston and ring replacement. When I got it back the first time it would run for about two mins. then die.I fought it for a couple of weeks then took it back and expressed my displeasure. Then checked it all over and replaced piston and ring again and it runs great. They told me they could not get the right compression with the first one and thought the groove for the ring was cut to deep.I hope this is of some help to you. Thank you.

Mar 21, 2011 | Husqvarna 455 Rancher 555cc 35 hp 20"...

1 Answer

Husqvarna 55 rancher-just put new piston ring and cylinder.saw start right up and idles.when i try to acellerate it bogs and try to stall.when I let off gas it idles fine again.I tried turning mixture...

The plastic carb mount has a hole and a slot, this is the pulse channel from the cylinder to work the pump diaphram in the carb, if you look behind the plastic plate there is a tube that fits into the cylinder under the black induction rubber, this feeds a positive and negative pressure to the carb as the piston rises and falls, make sure you have re fitted the small seal in the cylinder that seals this tube or you will have big running problems.
Let me know if you need more help.

Mar 02, 2011 | Husqvarna , No.455 Rancher, 20" Gas -...

1 Answer

Like to know how to put top end gasket kit on my 1979 1000 cc sportster

Rebuilding the top end on your Ironhead is not really that difficult to do. You start by taking the tank off the frame, then the carb and intake manifold off. With those off, take the four bolts out of each head and remove the heads. With the heads off, take the four bolts out off of the studs to remove the cylinders from the engine cases. One word of caution. When you remove the cylinders, have the piston up high enough in the cylinder so that you can lift the cylinders and stuff shop towels or something into the case before completely removing the cylinder. This will keep bits of carbon, broken rings, or whatever from falling into the case.

Now, that you've got it torn down, no need in doing all this work and not refreshing the engine. I'd have the cylinders checked to see if they needed boring. If not, I'd still put a new set of rings in the engine. They don't cost that much. Have the machine shop break the glaze in your cylinders if you don't have a flexhone. If you have a lot of miles on the bike, a valve job would be in order as well. Clean all the old gaskets from everything. If you have a valve job done on the heads or you've got oil leaks at the rocker boxes, remove them and replace the gaskets. This is a good time to check the rocker arms and rocker arm bushings. Replace them if needed.

Once everything is ready, put the rocker boxes back on the heads. Use good gaskets and a good sealer. Put locktite on the bolts so that they don't come loose. Once you get the heads back on the engine, you probably won't be able to to get to the bolts. Install the base gasket on the cases. Put the new rings on the piston making sure you get the right ring in the right groove and you put them in with the right side up. Refer to the instructions that comes with the rings to determine which side of each ring should be installed in the up position. Oil the rings thoroughly and space the end gaps around the piston at 60° or so apart from each other, do not align the ring end gaps. Carefully slide the cylinder down over the piston and rings. Use your fingers to compress the rings so that the cylinder slides down over the rings easily. Do not use force or you may break a ring. Torque the cylinder base nuts to 35-40 foot pounds. Now, install the other cylinder using the same techniques.

Next comes the heads. Choose the head gasket you are going to use. They come in two thicknesses. I prefer the thicker gasket. It will cost you a bit of compression but they seal better. Spray each side of the copper gasket with CopperCoat spray adhesive and position the gasket so that the oil drain hole is properly aligned. Carefully set the head down on the cylinder without disturbing the head gasket. Install the four head bolts but only snug one of them down. Then install the other head the same way.

Now, the reason you only snugged one head bolt down was you must align the intake ports with the intake manifold. Hold the intake manifold in between the intake ports of the heads. Notice the gap at the intake ports. If it is wider or narrower at the front than it is at the back, you must "rotate" the heads until the gap is even. Once this is done, you can tighten the head bolts. Tighten them in a criss cross pattern to a torque of 60-70 foot pounds.

Now you can install and adjust your pushrods. Use new O-rings on the pushrod tubes. Bring the front piston to Top Dead Center. Use a common drinking straw in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at it's highest point. Do NOT use anything that is hard or that will break. You could damage the piston or break the tester off in the cylinder making you have to pull the head off again. With the piston at top center, adjust each pushrod longer until you can't turn it with you fingers, then back off until you can just turn it freely. Lock the locknut down tightly. It's better to leave the pushrod a bit loose than a too tight. Do the same with the other pushrod. Put the pushrod tube into it's proper position. Now, bring the rear piston to top center and install the pushrods and tubes on that cylinder. It makes no difference which pushrod goes in what position as they are all the same length on the Sportster.

Now you can install the carb. Use new "rubber bands" on the intake clamps. Make sure you position the intake so that the carb is level. Position the clamps and "rubber bands" so that you won't have any vacuum leaks and tighten them down. Once the carb is installed on the intake, check the throttle for proper operation. You don't want to start your bike only to find out that the throttle is wide open. Install the fuel tank and you should be ready to go.

Good Luck

May 30, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Bike bogged down like plug fouled now wont start

Based on the information given, I think you may have a hole in the top of the piston. It sounds like pre-ignition, ( AKA detonation and engine knock ). Pull the cylinder head and check the piston and cylinder head. Sometimes the top outer edge of the piston disintegrates due to the heat. Replace the piston and rings and remove the carbon from the head. Be sure you run 32/1 mix on gas and oil. That's 4oz two stroke oil per gallon of gas. Only use premium gas.

Remove and clean the carb. Be sure the carb mount bolts and carb manifold bolts are tight. An air leak will cause the engine to run hot.

Please rate this solution. Thanks

Apr 06, 2009 | 2003 Honda CR 125 R

1 Answer

Air leak only idles with choke closed no high speed.

Remove your exhaust manifold. Look into the cylinder with a flash light. You are looking for scratches. Anything larger then a light fingernail is definite proof you need a new cylinder/piston assy.

If it passes that test do the following:

Pour mixed fuel straight into your cylinder until 1/4 full. Slowly pull your saw over while looking into the cylinder. If you see bubbles after the ring/rings go by then you need a new cylinder/piston assy. On rare occasions if no scratches are present on the cylinder wall or piston, you may be able to change just the rings.

Mar 31, 2009 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

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