Question about Thetford Norcold RV Cooler/Freezer

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Norcold MRFT 360 D refrigerator/freezer. Failed running on DC several years ago. Now fails to cool on AC. I can hear the "compressor" turn on and run for a short time, then stops. The black cannister gets hot. I would prefer to repair this unit.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: DE0061 draws power when not cooling

Hi captstu,

I'm Harvey th Master Plumber.

Your question is: Can you install an auxiliary thermostat on the DC power feed to stop the power draw when cooling is not required?

I understand your frustration. I live on a boat. Since the fridge thermostat is reducing the amp draw when the compressor is off, just remember to turn off the curcuit when you leave the boat and emptying the fridge. You are probly doing this already. Since any modification to a new unit voids the warranty I wouldn't go down that path. The unit should have been tested before installation. Water under the bridge. I agree with the manufacturer. I would tear it out and get a warranty replacement. Sorry, Norcold is right, this is the least painfull way out. It is beter than the cost of repair.

Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Refer Norcold DE 0051 not getting cold

Your cooling unit is shot, I suggest. Most likely, you've lost the R341 refrigerant. Norcold, so they can sell you another cooling unit at $500+, does not make these little fridges with a service port so you can recharge the system. Same with Dometic. Solution is to spend, again, $500+ for a new sealed unit that will fail in relatively short order (I'm on my second in five years) or buy a better refrigerator. I'm opting for a new fridge this go around (Vitrifrigo). Vitrifrigo has the needed service port.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: freezer cold refrigerator not norcold ac/dc/lp and no alerts

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using fixya! Mike p.s. please don't forget to rate this free solution.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

SOURCE: RV freezer cools, but fridge section doesn't

Sir, To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant. I suggest you to contact the service authority.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: norcold refrigerator burner will not stay lit

u need to replace the thermocuple or be sure its near the pilot also be sure to blow out any and all dust in that area

Posted on Jan 29, 2010

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Norcold RV Refrigerator not cooling or freezing. Fault code lo dc


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"



Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators

Jan 02, 2017 | Thetford Norcold RV Cooler/Freezer

Tip

My refrigerator is not cooling, how can I fix it?


It could be one of several problems -

1) Failed compressor relay
2) Failed compressor
3) Failed component in the defrost system
4) Bad door gaskets
5) Failed door light switch

Questions to answer -

1) Is the compressor (large black domed item with three tubes (one stubbed) at the bottom back of the frig.) warm or hot? If cool, then you could have a failed relay inside the compressor enclosure. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall, locate where the wires go into the compressor terminal box. Remove the clip holding the cover, and pull the relay off the compressor. Inspect for evidence of burning. Replace if necessary and reinstall all covers. You should always hear a clicking sound when the compressor tries to start. If it does not start, and you hear it click again a few seconds later, then it's likely you have a failed compressor.

2) Was the condenser fan running? The condenser fan pushes rejected heat away from the condenser coil. If it's not running, it's hard on the compressor, and the refrigerator does not cool.

3) Was there thick ice buildup inside the louvers of the back wall of the freezer? Heavy ice buildup here is an indication of a failed defrost control or heater and requires further diagnosis to determine the problem. A knowledge of use of a volt-ohm meter is required, along with a willingness and ability to do some mechanical and electrical dis-assembly and test.

4) Was the fan running inside the freezer? Freezer fan should run when the compressor is running, but not during the defrost cycle (or it would slightly heat up the refrigerator.).

5) Look up my "Tips and Tricks" article on testing your door gaskets.

6) Open the door slightly and look inside as best you can. Is the light on or off? Continue to open the door until you see the light go on to confirm the light switch is working.

Following each of the above steps may not help you fix your unit, but will give you an indication of things to look for and describe when you post a request for help when trying top fix you refrigerator.

on Dec 13, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge and freezer not cooling


When the refrigerator turns on, do you hear anything in the refrigerant lines? Does the compressor turn on? or does it just hum?

If the compressor is running, it lost refrigerant charge. They were not made to be serviced and lack service valves.

If there is just a loud hum, the compressor may be siezed, the start/run capacitor may have failed. or the magnetic starter failed.

A service call is a fair portion of a replacement not counting the parts.

Apr 30, 2012 | Maytag MSD2732GR Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

My refrigerator is a bottom freezer 16.5 a month ago the freezer defrosted on its own but the refer stayed cold neither of the units are cooling , the fan is working and there is a metallic buzz every...


the buzz you hear is the compressor trying to start . i would think that the start device ( relay located on the side of compressor has failed and will not start it . this is a common service . it will have to be replaced . . it has been failing or not always starting like it should for several week and it has now give up.. its not a tuff repair but should be done by a tech that can do it properly .. mm also make sure the coil is clean and fan is working . mm

Oct 14, 2010 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

1 Answer

Fan cool fridge working 3years bought new 2days ago starts blowin


Good day,
I don't understand your caption..........
Fan cool fridge working 3years bought new 2days ago... However, it sounds as if the compressor is trying to start and cannot.
If the machine is under 5 years of age, the compressor is under factory warranty.
There is a relay, capacitor, and overload which are connected to the side of the compressor after removing the back bottom rear cover.
These items could be removed and taken to an appliance parts house, where they would be glad to test them for you. Replace failed parts.

However, if it is under 5 years of age, I would recommend you call for factory warranty service. They may have to charge you for one of these parts, but since it could be a failed compressor, and not the starting components it is better to let them service it and maintain the balance of your compressor warranty.

Jan 29, 2010 | Jenn-Air JBL2086HES Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

RV freezer cools, but fridge section doesn't


Sir, To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant. I suggest you to contact the service authority.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Sep 09, 2009 | Thetford Norcold RV Cooler/Freezer

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Trio Refrigerator not cooling


No, it is not a failed condenser. You need to see if the compressor is running though. When it runs you shaould have a fan in the freezer running, a fan underneath the fridge running, and the compressor should be running. I would be willing to bet that either the compressor is bad, or the start relay on the compressor.

Sep 08, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

2 Answers

Maytag french door fridge crapped out....again


buzzing sound comes from freezer fan or ice maker fan. They are located behind the freezer rear wall. These freezer fan cools the freezer and the refrigerator. The ice maker fan supply air to ice maker.

Jul 22, 2009 | Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French...

1 Answer

Refrigartor not makinc ice not getting cold


You didn't mention whether you can hear the compressor running or not so we'll have to guess.
There are a couple of things that can go wrong:
- Compressor failed - Cooling fan for coils not running  - Thermostat failed - Refrigerant lost (perhaps from moving it rough?)

Mar 30, 2009 | Jenn-Air JFC2089H Bottom Freezer French...

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