Question about Kenmore 15944 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore elite washer(15942) when washer starts water enters tank and aigatator starts, on final spin water enters entire time spin is going so cloths don't spin dry. Don't know if timer is the problem or water control switch.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore washer - water is emptying from tub but clothes are not spinning dry

replace door switch.If the computer thinks the door is open, it will not fast spin as a safety precaution. 

Posted on Feb 27, 2008

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.


Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE ELITE HE3 WASHER

2 things you may try if you haven't already ..let washer fill with hot water ..pause and open door pour in about 2 cups chlorine bleach before starting back up..with rag soaked in bleach/water clean inside front door boot ..be sure to roll boot toward front and clean out accumilation under it wash as much as possible off door seal..allow to finish cycle (normal wash should be fine)..may also try removing lower panel remove pump acess plug and clean pump out thoroughly..you are not alone ALL front washer have same issue and if some sort of routine cleaning isn't done problem reoccurs also leaving door slightly open between usues will help ..by the way that is a german made washer

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

onthejob5130
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 plus series spin dry is not working

check your lid switch...bad lid swich...

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite washer spins to slow cauisng the

If this is occurring mostly on heavier loads your clutch may be slipping. If you take a flathead screwdriver and push down the lid switch so the washer will spin with the lid up, grab the inside of the drum. If you can easily stop the drum its most likely a bad clutch. If you tip the washer back and see oil underneath then its probably your transmission leaking oil onto the the clutch causing it to slip (in which case you need transmission and clutch assy). If you see oil I would probably not bother calling a tech it would be a pretty expensive repair.
IF the problem is with the clutch only it may be worth repairing but to replace the clutch you will have to remove the pump, motor, transmission, and the clutch mounts on top. The other less common possibility could be a bad drive block under the inner tub. hope this helps. _MJ_

Posted on Jan 28, 2010

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