Replace thermal cut out units
This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.
If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.
If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.
The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.
CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:
1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.
5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.
NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.
Dryer Does Not Run At All:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.
These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.
May 19, 2008 |
Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer