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Drain hose is split - is it easy to replace or do I need an engineer?

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So easy you will kick yourself. Tilt machine sideways and follow the pipe to where it connects to the drain pump. Remove the clamp and pull the pipe off. Once off, order a new one from an appliance shop. Its not imperrative if you put a pipe on from another machine but make sure the pipe end size is the same.(it must not be loose or the water will pour out when pumping)

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a simpson esprit 750 automatic top load 7.5 kg washer on any cycle i try to fill it up to start cycle as im filling it up the water is draining out


Hi if it's draining out on your floor you have a split hose, very easy to fix just put your washing machine forward(turned off)and lay it on a towel, Look underneath and you should see the split hose..... Good luck....

Mar 18, 2016 | Simpson Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer flooded the room


Check the Drain hose has not come adrift.
check for a split in the doorseal or come away. These need to be done by an engineer: - Check internal hoses have not split or come away, hole in drum (unusual) If it is a sudden flood it may just be a fill valve is jammed open. Turn taps off and call an engineer to replce it.

Sep 30, 2014 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I WANT TO REPLACE DRAIN HOSE WITH NEW ONE AS OLD ONE SPLIT


It's a fairly big job. You have to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. Then remove the left-hand metal panel. You should now be looking at the case-brake assembly. Reach inside the dishwahsher and turn the water-inlet bezel counter-clockwise to remove it. Now you can tilt out the case-brake assembly and loosen the clamp that holds the drain hose in place. Pull the hose off (have a towel or Sham-Wow ready to catch the water). Then you have to remove the clamp or hose-restraint at the back of the dishwasher. Thaen you can pull the drain hose out and replace it.

Aug 12, 2014 | Samsung Dishwashers

2 Answers

What do I need to change thermostat in a dodge durango magnum 5.2


if its the stat then you will need a 13mm socket and ratchet with extension to remove the bolts that hold the stat housing to the motor. a drain bucket to drain the cooling system below the level of the stat, remove stat and clean surfaces on both the housing and motor. install the new stat and gasket reassemble in reverse order and refill the cooling system and run engine to operating temp and make sure all air is out of system.

May 25, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Split suction hose


try e spares on the internet they have most parts

and to replace is very easy

Mar 20, 2014 | Miele S7260 Bagged Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

Leaks from underneath


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If the washer is leaking water the drain pump might have a hole or crack. Or, the bearings might be worn out. Replace the drain pump if it is leaking water, they're not repairable.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal and bearing might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal and bearing can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.
Tub Seal Kit If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal kit can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Spin Seal If the washer is leaking water the tub spin seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub spin seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.
Tub Seal If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.

Tub to Pump Hose If the washer is leaking water the hose from the tub to the pump might be split or torn. Don't try to cut off the bad piece of hose and stretch it to fit the pump, this will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause a sudden and complete failure of the hose which will dump potentially hundreds or thousands of gallons of water onto the floor because the next time the washer tries to fill all of the water will end up on the floor and so the washer will never shut off the valve. Any time there is a damaged hose, replace it completely with the OEM part.

Washing Machine Fill Hose If the washer is leaking water, check the fill hoses on the back of the washer, this is the most common place for water to leak. If the washer still has the original black rubber fill hoses replace them with stainless steel or some other, more durable hose.

Drain Hose If the washer is leaking water check the drain hose. The most common places for the hose to spring a leak is from the connection to the pump out to the back of the washer. Another common occurrence is when the washer gets pushed too far back against the wall.
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Sep 30, 2012 | Kenmore Elite Washing Machines

1 Answer

Meile dishwasher G641 inlet /outlet hose has split can I ,buy a replacement hose


Hi jmjohnnamarti,

Yes you can, the part numbers below:

Drain hose (1.5M) = 2244182
Drain Hose (2.25M) = 2244212
Inlet Hose (Normal) = 5936070
Inlet Hose (Waterproof System - 2M) = 7638500

Get it from your local appliance spares outlet, might need to be ordered (Quite expensive)

Hope this helps :-)

* If you found this solution helpful, please rate it

Jul 18, 2011 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

2002 Audi A4 Quattro - When the car is in park the car begins to idle up and down. It also down shifts abruptly from 50 mph or above when the gas is let up. Also my check engine is on, which I took it to a...


An "easy" fix is only easy depending on your definition of what is easy or difficult repair is as a practical concern..

The variation of the idle speed in Park, is most likely due to a vacuum leak in the crankcase ventilation/positive crankcase ventilation system hoses. Check all the hoses and hose connections for loose attachment to the hose fittings and connections, and carefully examine the hoses for failures like splits and cracks in the hoses. Inspect the crankcase ventilation system hoses and tubing for partial or complete blockage from oily sludge deposits, and clean out the hoses and fittings as required.

If still present, cut off the factory hose clamps using a Dremel metal cut-off tool, and replace the hose clamps with the correct sizes for the hose diameters the clamps are to fit. The spring type Corbin hose clamps are good because they stay tight on the hoses as the hosed relax and dry out with age. Special pliers should be used to easily remove and replace the factory Corbin clamps and any new Corbin clamps that replace the crimped original factory clamps.

The harsh engagement of the transmission is likey associated with the higher than specified idle speed caused by vacuum leaks as I explained above.
Finally, the transmission fluid and fluid filter have probably never been drianed/replaced.. Audi claims the transmission ATF and fluid filter do not require periodic replacement, and is a "Lifetime Fill", with no recommended service specified. This Audi policy really only helps reduce the cost to Audi during the New Car warranty period. Realize that what this policy really means for Audi owners with Audis past the warranty period, is that the "Liifetime Fill, actually means "Until the transmission fails", as a practical situation.
  1. Therefore, I recommend you have the ATF drained and a new fluid filter installed, then the transmission refilled using ONLY Pentosin ATF-1 100% Synthetic auto transmission fluid. Then after driving for another ~5000 miles, drain and refill the ATF again, without replacing the filter. Perform ATF replacement thereafter every 40,000 miles or more often if mostly city driving.
After servicing the AFT fluid, drive the car normally for a few hundred miles and note if the symptoms with the harsh gear engagement is improved or not. If not, seek additional advise here as needed.

Feb 08, 2011 | 2002 Audi A4

1 Answer

My ecosmart GWL11 Fisher and Paykel washing machine is leaking water from the bottom, I think during the spin cycle, but am not sure--there is a puddle of water when I come out to put clothes in dryer. ...


Double check your drain hose is both attached and that there are no splits in the hose. I have found that even the smallest split/hole leaks huge amounts of water. If the hose has come off you will obviously need to reattach it, if it is split i found it best to replace rather than repair the hose.

Oct 25, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have a 1999 lexus es300. Getting indications that knock sensors need to be replaced. Car has 144k miles. What do the knock sensors do and how easy / tough to replace?


If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal.  If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s).  Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake.  This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.  

The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time.  After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).

You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze  (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums.  You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine.  While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose.  Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff.  Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub.  Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities.  Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools.  Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub.  Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.

Jul 27, 2008 | 1998 Lexus ES 300

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