Question about Westinghouse Dishwashers

3 Answers

Have a Westinghouse 905 dishwasher (guessing approx 5-10yrs old). When I turn it on it's starts is cycle as expected then stops after about 10mins and loses all power (can't turn it on or get any lights to light up for sometime almost like it needs to cool down) at this point the dishwasher is full of water. It is not the pump however as as soon as you can get power to it (sometimes some hours later) and turn it on the first thing it does is pump out the water. Any ideas??

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  • avirgona Aug 05, 2010

    Is there a chance it could be a thermal fuse or something? It isn't really an intermittent fault as it is exactly the same everytime I use the dishwasher

  • avirgona Aug 05, 2010

    Is it cost effective to replace board or should I just buy a new dishwasher?

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3 Answers

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  • Westinghouse Master
  • 3,247 Answers

It is likely the thermal relay is tripping. This could be because if you are feeding hot water to inlet the temperature of water is too high, or the dishwasher heater is faulty and overheating the water. Or it is also possible the thermal cutout is sensing incorrectly and causing the dishwasher to turn off as expected.

If you think inlet water temperature is not problem then you will have to check the heater or thermal relay (also called thermistor).



Posted on Aug 05, 2010

  • 15 more comments 
  • Sam Aug 05, 2010

    The reason it might appear to shut down at the same time is that the controller would be checking the temperature sensor at that point (10mins) and get a false signal.



    Please provide the full model no. eg. sbc..905 ..etc before I can provide further suggestions.



    The cost of repair v/s new will depend on where you are and what access you have to repair service. If you say it is more than 5 years old - a new one might be due. But if it will cost about $200 to fix (say) assuming we know exactly which part is faulty. A new one of the base Electrolux/ Westinghouse might cost $500 plus installation.



    It is a hard choice.

  • avirgona Aug 05, 2010

    Unfortunately I can't find a model number as the sticker inside the front is half missing. It is not a problem of inlet water temp as I have never had any trouble with it previuosly and nothing has changed in that respect.

    It sounds like it is getting a little too technical and as much as I don't want to o think the only option is to replace it. Especially if parts are looking towards the $200 mark.

    Is there anyway I can find and test this thermistor with a mutlimeter easily?

    Many thanks for your help.

    Ash

  • Sam Aug 06, 2010

    It is a bit difficult to provide specific guidance on how to check the thermal fuse or heater on your dishwasher without being clear about the model no. However, a generic procedure might help in finding out the thermal fuse.



    Good Luck.

  • avirgona Aug 06, 2010

    I have located and isolated (what I think is) the thermal fuse. I have joined the wires to test the dishwasher without the fuse as when I tested the fuse I got alot of resistance across it (couldn't get the multimeter signal to move off 1) . I have run the dishwasher and found that it is now going further through it's cycle however still cutting out and have to wait for it to cool down before I can get power to it again. It does seem to get very hot (possibly more than it should) is there anything else I can try easily? There is a small black component that goes through the base into the dishwasher (has 3 wires going to it). Is this some kind of a temp sender and could this be faulty? Sorry to continue to hassle you and thanks very much for your help thus far.

  • Sam Aug 06, 2010

    In my opinion it is risky to run the dishwasher with safety components like thermal fuse removed. However, if it does still cut off even though with some delay then I am not sure it is the thermal fuse that you would have taken out.



    Can you confirm when the dishwasher is running that you hear the wash arms moving? I want to understand if the thing stops within the heating cycle or goes into wash before it cuts off.



    By the way I would suggest you reconnect the part you have taken out. The other black component you are mentioning could be the motor start relay.



    Also try and run in one of the short cycles where the heater does not have to turn on.



    I am glad you are hitting onto something but at this stage we will need some more diagnostic. When I repaired my first dishwasher about 20 years ago - it was lying open on the dining room floor for 6 months before I worked out the problem and fixed it. I am hoping it won't be the same in your case. Westinghouse/ Electrolux are not very open with their service manuals and this is the problem I have. Also not knowing the exact model no. does not help.



  • avirgona Aug 07, 2010

    Ok - when starting the machine first pumps out any remaining water then it begins to fill again (through a port about a third of the way up on the inside) then it begins it's wash cycle. It appears that the water is coming out of the wash arms however they don't actually rotate. I have tried operating it on short cycles and long cycles and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Judging by the heat inside the machine the heater is still operating even on the short cycle. Studying it now it appears to be during the heating cycle that it cuts out. According to the generic thermal fuse instructions it appears to be the only thing that could be the thermal fuse (whit plastic component with 2 wires going to it located on the underside of thedishwasher. I hope I am explaining myself clearly and thanks again for your help. - hopefully there is something else I can try before giving up on the old girl (I hate throwing things away!!) (going to struggle to go without it for 6 months though!!)

    just listening to it now it seems to go throught 2 wash and heat cycles before cutting out (it cuts out after the second heat cycle. about 5 mins before it cuts out I can hear a humming/buzzing noise coming from the back however it doesn't seem to activate anything).

  • avirgona Aug 07, 2010

    Ok - when starting the machine first pumps out any remaining water then it begins to fill again (through a port about a third of the way up on the inside) then it begins it's wash cycle. It appears that the water is coming out of the wash arms however they don't actually rotate. I have tried operating it on short cycles and long cycles and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Judging by the heat inside the machine the heater is still operating even on the short cycle. Studying it now it appears to be during the heating cycle that it cuts out. According to the generic thermal fuse instructions it appears to be the only thing that could be the thermal fuse (whit plastic component with 2 wires going to it located on the underside of thedishwasher. I hope I am explaining myself clearly and thanks again for your help. - hopefully there is something else I can try before giving up on the old girl (I hate throwing things away!!) (going to struggle to go without it for 6 months though!!)

    just listening to it now it seems to go throught 2 wash and heat cycles before cutting out (it cuts out after the second heat cycle. about 5 mins before it cuts out I can hear a humming/buzzing noise coming from the back however it doesn't seem to activate anything).

  • avirgona Aug 07, 2010

    Ok - when starting the machine first pumps out any remaining water then it begins to fill again (through a port about a third of the way up on the inside) then it begins it's wash cycle. It appears that the water is coming out of the wash arms however they don't actually rotate. I have tried operating it on short cycles and long cycles and it doesn't seem to make any difference. Judging by the heat inside the machine the heater is still operating even on the short cycle. Studying it now it appears to be during the heating cycle that it cuts out. According to the generic thermal fuse instructions it appears to be the only thing that could be the thermal fuse (whit plastic component with 2 wires going to it located on the underside of thedishwasher. I hope I am explaining myself clearly and thanks again for your help. - hopefully there is something else I can try before giving up on the old girl (I hate throwing things away!!) (going to struggle to go without it for 6 months though!!)

    just listening to it now it seems to go throught 2 wash and heat cycles before cutting out (it cuts out after the second heat cycle. about 5 mins before it cuts out I can hear a humming/buzzing noise coming from the back however it doesn't seem to activate anything).

  • Sam Aug 07, 2010

    Looks like we must be in different time zones. I got up and found 3 posts from you that were repeated.



    You have described the observations quite well. The only problem I have is not being sure why you have 2 wash cycles even though you mentioned you tried the shorter cycles. I think the second wash cycle must be the rinse cycle. Based on what you are observing there are 2 possibilities that could be shutting the dishwasher - one is the main thermostat is not working - this should control when to turn the heater off and second -the motor coil is drawing too much current and tripping the motor relay.



    I am trying to find some way of getting across to you a few service manuals that might help you in understanding how these work. Some repair technicians at this stage will try to replace the controller (timer) to confirm if it is not sending incorrect controls.



    I will take about 4 hours to get back to you.



  • Sam Aug 08, 2010

    Click on the download and read the service manual at this site. It covers several models from whirlpool but I believe your model of dishwasher should be similar to the model covered at page 25.



    The strip circuit diagrams on page 35 show which compononet is involved in different cycles. The Hi Limit thermostat is what should control the heater but if it is not working, the heater will continue to heat at which point the Thermal fuse (called Operating Thermostat) will shut power.



    You can test each component as explained. Try running the diswasher with door open. You will have to insert something into the door switch to make it start. Tape a small piece of wood in the notch.



    The reason I took 6 months to fix my first dishwasher was because I had to work on my own intuition - we did not have the benefit of internet then. Also post me a few part nos. - eg. pump assembly, timer, motor which could help me track your model no. from the parts catalogues normally available on the web.



    Good Luck.

  • avirgona Aug 08, 2010

    Ignore last - sorry! I have Replaced the part I think is the fuse and disconnected the wires to the heater element. I have now run the dishwasher again and it seems to run pretty good (washer arms rotating/spraying etc. It ran for about 20 or 30 mins on the fast cycle and then stopped (but didn't lose power like previously) and one of the LEDS on the control panel begun flashing (the LED above the 'Pots' wash cycle. Any ideas?? Faulty heater element?? Thanks again

  • avirgona Aug 08, 2010

    Hey thanks so much for your help and sorry for my multiple posts - trying to access Internet from my phone and having some small probs. Here is my latest info, I will try you suggestions above in the meantime;

    I have Replaced the part I think is the fuse and disconnected the wires to the heater element. I have now run the dishwasher again and it seems to run pretty good (washer arms rotating/spraying etc. It ran for about 20 or 30 mins on the fast cycle and then stopped (but didn't lose power like previously) and one of the LEDS on the control panel begun flashing (the LED above the 'Pots' wash cycle. Any ideas?? Faulty heater element?? Thanks again

  • avirgona Aug 08, 2010

    I apologised for the repeat posts having some difficulty with using Internet on my phone. Please see above for my latest observations. I have looked at the service manual however it doesn't seem to match my model as mine is a push button type rather than a dial that you turn for the wash cycles. As a result I couldn't really recognize any of the components. Judging by the fact that with the heater disconnected it didn't actually cut out I think it may be something to do wit the machine overheating. Therefore leaning towards this hi temperature sensor. (I tested resistance across the heater element as per service manual and it appears to be normal (32 ohms). This part that I am thinking is the hi temp sensor is the only component which seems to penetrate into the base of the dishwasher and have any contact with the water in the machine - does this seem to be the right part (it has four terminals on it, 2 of which go to either terminal on the heater element). If this is faulty would this produce symptoms such as this? Part number for drive pump appears to be: CP27 - 206 Ru. It is made by hanning. The drain pumps model number I think is 2401031 ( also made by hanning). I hope this helps.

  • Sam Aug 08, 2010

    Great to know that you are making some conclusions about the thermostat problem.



    The hanning drain and circulation pump part nos. are not much help because these seem to be a very commonly used part in most dishwashers. You can actually see these in the catalogues on the Hanning website.



    I think I might have found a suitable hi Limit Thermostat which you should order and see if it helps.



    All the parts for Westinghouse dishwashers are listed at this site.

  • avirgona Aug 09, 2010

    Can't thank you enough for your patience and assistance - I picked up a new themostat today and it seems to have fixed the problem ($30 part as opposed to a new $500 dishwasher). Thanks again hopefully I won't have to hassle you again for at least a little while! Cheers, ash

  • Sam Aug 09, 2010

    I am glad you were able to fix the dishwasher. You must be very technically minded. Why not join the fixya.com consultant panel.



    We are mostly volunteers but the satisfaction is seeing people being helped and not throwing their appliances into the junk yard.



    At some stage it would be helpful if you rate my solution. This enable fixya to keep some rating for its consultants.

  • avirgona Aug 10, 2010

    No probs - how do I rate you? Thanks again

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  • Master
  • 909 Answers

Yes, the board is defective. Replace it. Put a power surge plug onto the power cord. Helps a lot with future surges.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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  • Westinghouse Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/301_5995371183.pdf
Above is your service and repair manual.. Below is a DOY How To repair help site to assist you to troubleshoot .
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dishwasher/dishwasher.php

This indeed sounds like a thermal problem, most likely on the main board, I suspect, some power Component is heating up, and thus failing, and the system shuts down, until it cools down, and then it works again.
www.westinghouse.com.au/Files/WMAN_WDF901_March09.pdf
User manual above.
With these intermittent faults, they can be very very difficult to isolate, and it is often best just to isolate to a section or board and replace the entire thing.
Often in these cases it is best to get it looked at by a professional, and ask for a "Quote" this way, You can get an idea of costings before you proceed.

Posted on Aug 05, 2010

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