I have an Estate (whirlpool) dryer that just refuses to come on. I have checked the power 110v on each leg and 220v reading across L1 and L2. The thermal fuse is good, the push to start switch is good, door switch is also good. Now I am not the best at reading wiring diagrams, however at the top of the schematic it shows how to ohm the timer and everything checks the way it should. So now I am at a total loss, could it be the motor switch? If so how do I go about checking the motor switch (ohms or volts) with meter to definitely make sure it is bad.
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Flip breaker for about 5 minutes. If it still won't work check the outlet and make sure there is 220v. Sometimes if one leg of the power goes out the electronics will run (they are 110v) but the motor and heat don't (they are 220v)
Your problem is not in the dryer. 220V circuits can be confusing in that the 110 leg can feed back and in reality you are getting the same 110V reading on both legs. Check across the two legs and see if you get 220V if not then you have confirmed what I suspect. Your problem is probably with you circuit breaker in the electric panel. Try switching the breaker off and forcefully turning it back on, You also can take off the panel cover and check to see if you have 220V across the two poles of the circuit breaker. You may have to replace the circuit breaker, it is not uncommon for one leg of a breaker ot go out especially when used on a dryer that pulls high amp. resistance loads.
Check your receptacle to make sure that you have 220v, with 110v on each of 2 legs. The dryer operates some things off of one hot lead, and some off of the other. Your motor circuit sounds like it's on the other.
If the receptacle checks good, check your wiring connections at the terminal strip in the back of the machine wher the cord connects.
First check he power coming in you ned 220v if one leg of the power is missing you will still feed 110v which will allow the motor to work but not heat the next step is to remove the back panel un plug the unit and test the thermal fuse on the upper left side of the heating element enclouser if this ok then check for a broken element
The first thing I would check would be the door switch. Dryers operate on 220 volts. Many brands split the 220v into 110v for controls and motor and 110v to the heater. There are also safety systems on many brands that won't allow the heater to come on if the fan motor is not running and blowing air throught he element to prevent overheating and dryer fires. If the door switch is ok, check the belt. If the belt is ok, it could be a problem with the motor start switch. The motor start swith is complicated fix and should be done by a professional. ALWAYS BE SURE TO DICONNECT THE POWER BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY REPAIRS.
I thinkl you can order the manuals from www.sears.com under the parts tab enter your model # also if it is an electric dry it is 220v with a neutral leg check with the local electrian to see if the power there is phased..Hope this helps
PS::The washer and the refrig will work on the tranformers
If your dryer came with a 4-prong plug, do not change it. For the very reasons you quoted with the article, you may screw up the 110v accessories required of your appliance (like the clock or digital display). It is best to change the household outlet to a 4-prong type. Just make sure your wiring is correct. You will need a neutral on the 4th leg, which means you will probably have to run new wiring from the outlet to the distribution panel.