Question about Mitsubishi Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's a quite complicated procedure but i'll try to describe as best i can.
Below the air outlet there should be a couple of screws. They may have small tabs over them (purely for aesthetics!).
If you lift up the filter cover, remove the filters and remove filter cover (trying carefully not to break it... darn plastic!) there may be some screws above the air outlet.
Remove the fascia cover starting from the bottom. Pull it out over the louvre in the air outlet. It will be clipped at the top near the back. These can be difficult to undo. Once that's done, remove the cover.
For the next bit, make sure that the power is turned off to the unit. (power cord unplugged, isolator turned off or c/b off depending on power source)
Undo the screws on the power box.
Undo the screws on the drain tray and off the left side of the evaporator coil. (Big finned section of pipework). Make sure you support the evaporator coil as it's only connected with copper pipes which bend/kink fairly easily.
You'll need to pull the coil out a little (not too far) and take off the left hand rubber 'bearing' as such from the indoor fan barrell.
On the right hand side of the unit you'll find the fan motor (which is held in by the power box) There should be a grub screw that holds the fan barrell onto the shaft of the motor. This is usually undone with an allan key but have seen them with phillips head screws also. This grub screw might be in a few different places. It might simply be on the right end of the fan barrell or sometimes the righthand column of blades is missing a blade and the grub screw is accessed by putting allan key/screwdriver up missing portion. You only need to loosen the grub screw, not remove it.
Once loosened, the fan barrel can be pulled off the motor shaft and removed.
Once off, you can inspect it for obstructions or broken blades etc. To reassemble is just the reverse of these instructions.
Just a few things to note:
1. Be careful of the evaporator coil not to kink (or break!) the copper pipes or your a/c won't work properly.
2. The drain tray may have water in it if the a/c has been operating recently.
3. Make sure the power is off before pulling off the power box.
This can be a very difficult task and I would recommend having an assistant to help with holding stuff.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
SOURCE: My Mitsubishi Mr. Slim heat
Here is the service manual for the model # you gave. http://www.mehvac.com/UploadedFiles/Resource/MSZ-FD09~12NA_Service_Manual_OBH497C_12-01-08.pdf
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Mitsubishi mini
just lift the filter panel on front of indoor unit and turn it on manually,remember this just sets the a/c to 24 deg,the unit decides whether to heat or cool it to 24 deg....at least it gets it goin so u can order a replacement
Posted on Feb 22, 2011
SOURCE: mitsubishi slit air conditioner model MSZ-GA80VA I turn on and turn off cauting out door unit fuse blown I replaced still The fuse is blow is the out door air con unit Note.unit in door stop not inpos
turn off everything electrical in house and retry with good fuse or breaker if still blows unit needs repair possible shorted capacitor? if it runs it may need to be on its own circuit dedicated to it alone
Posted on Jan 05, 2017
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